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After you adjust the steps/mm power cycle the printer to make sure it's saved permanently. I think by default it only changes it temporarily and you have to do some kind of save operation. Although maybe it *does* save it. Anyway if you have questions about that post them here and I will answer or tinkergnome himself will answer.

Yes. The firmware is here. You can always go back to the official firmware. So install tinkerMarlin: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1 Get the only one that matches your machine. From your description it would be near the end of the list. It should *not* say dual. It should say "plus": Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2plus-19.03.1.hex The hex file is the firmware. Then you connect a USB cable from your printer to your computer. Then you have many options on installation. I'd try cura first although it's the most likely one to have trouble seeing your printer. In Cura 14.X or 15.X it's pretty easy. In latest cura do PREPARE mode, then click on the printer drop down and then "manage printers" and then UPDATE FIRMWARE and then custom firmware option. Often it can't see your printer for a few possible reasons. You need the USB driver which should be bundled with Cura. At least it used to. On windows you can check if there is a com port in device manager that is added when you connect the usb cable. You can connect and unconnect a few times and you should see a COM port added. In the old days it was like COM3 but now typically it's a larger number like COM17 and cura doesn't look that high I think. So if you see the COM port in device manager but not in cura then you need different software. You can google about how to install firmware for arduino (as it's an arduino computer inside the UM2+) and there's tons of help for you there. Or use printrun software here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Which should have less trouble connecting to your printer and installing new firmware. Once installed the rest is easy - find the steps/mm settings for all 4 axes and if your cubes are say 5% too small than increase steps/mm by 5%.

To make things more complicated, The X and Y travel does not always match up with the bed itself. In other words the nozzle may not be able to reach all 4 edges. Or it may be able to travel beyond some of the edges of the bed. And for dual nozzle print heads the printable area is often different if both nozzles are used.

Not really. The smaller you tell cura the bed is, the more cura will push your part to the front left corner. Cura divides what you tell it is the bed size by 2 and Cura considers that the "center". So maybe only have a 1mm margin instead of a 15mm margin? Or just tell Cura the truth. It will not go beyond what you tell it.

So there are a few possible causes on a UM2 but 90% of the time the set screw on one of the pulleys comes loose and usually the stepper motor pulley. So determine which axis it is and then push the head around and see which pulleys move when you slide that axis. I assume the Y axis as I assume it was positioned as shown in the photo. Anyway start with the stepper on that axis and tighten the hell out of the set screw. Hopefully you got one of the UM2 printers that came with the green and black hex driver and you can use that because it will reach behind the covers down to the stepper. Just push the head around until the screw is accessible. If you only have one of those little L shaped allen wrenches make damn sure it's the right size (2mm hex) because you will strip the head if you don't have the right size because you will be tightening HARD. So you want to twist so damn hard that the steel shaft of the tool twists a little. Scary tight. Get the other pulleys as well but the stepper one is usually the most important. One axis has 5 and the other axis has 6 pulleys. The one with 5 has kind of two pulleys bonded together. If you only have an L shaped wrench you can remove the cover with only one or two screws (depending how old the printer is). Don't remove the panels! Just the corner cover. But you won't have to bother if you have the hex driver. If you don't believe me (many don't - not sure why) then use a sharpie to mark the shaft and the pulley and the next time it skips a layer, check the markings and you should see that the pulleys (all 6 of them) moved a little versus the shaft.

Steve it looks like you modified that screw before slicing it? To have a flattened side. Very interesting! Or is that just a cut-away view?

yes that's underextrusion. I'm confused - did you do an extrusion test to see how much it extrudes? You should move the filament an exact known amount such as 10mm or 100mm and then measure how far it moves. Then take the ratio. Take your existing steps/mm and then multiply or divide by the ratio (to make it move more or less) to get the new steps/mm value. 99% of printers don't need to be calibrated for extrusion steps/mm.

Oh, another common problem is that shipping really sucks and a lot of these printers show up at the customer where the frame is a parallelogram instead of squared off. If you look down from the top sometimes you can see that things are crooked. This makes it so that when you print circles or cylinders they come out as an ellipse in the diagonal direction. The best fix is to loosen all the frame screws, square it up and retighten. Or just ask a friendly elephant to push the farther edges together just a bit. You (and we) really need to know what dimensions you are talking about and which of the many possible causes the problem is caused by.

This is tricky to answer. In my experience the obvious thing to calibrate is the x,y, and Z "steps/mm" value which in my experience is spot on for these printers. More likely (I think? not certain) the error would be where the hole drilled through one or more pulleys is off center such that, for example, the x axis might print too large/long for half a rotation (about 3cm) and then print too short for the other half. Such that if you printed a 1cm cube it might be fine in the center but too large if placed 1cm to the right or too small if 1cm to the left. I guess you first need to explain exactly which dimensions are a problem. Is it vertical holes? As that is a different issue. I also guess I would print a pattern right on the glass with maybe 5mm spacing (or do imperial units if you don't have any good metric measuring devices). Then check them all to see if some are too small and some too large and if so try to get a better set of pulleys. If they are consistently large or small then it's pretty easy to fix with the steps/mm parameter but I think you can't edit that in the default Ultimaker firmware and instead you would want to get the tinkerGnome version of Marlin also known as tinkerMarlin (search this forum for that so you can download and install).

I don't know why you think that is a temporary solution - it sounds like you are describing an excellent permanent solution? What am I missing?

I see you have the Material Station so that complicates things a lot. So it can be the feeder or the core. Firstly go into the middle menu on the left side and then click on the filament type icon in the upper area and then in the "..." in the corner select "move". Wait for it to heat up and then spin the dial and see if you can get filament to come out. There are dozens of reasons why you had trouble. For example there used to be a bug if you aborted a print it would retract too much and then when it went to print again nothing would happen for quite a while. Anyway, make sure the lever is down on the feeder. Does that work? Does it feed at all that way? Anyway you have to figure out if it's the feeder or the printcore as that's mostly the only two things that can fail. It's usually the printcore and UM considers them consumables. Like filament. Just order a few more for spares now. Another test you might be able to do - while in the move menu back the filament out a lot until you see the end in the bowden tube. Then go forwards again and fight the filament with your other hand behind the machine (can you even do that with the material station involved? Maybe not! Probably not. I guess this test can't be done with the material station in use. Anyway the feeder can usually push about 10 to 15 pounds (about 7kg) of force. Your printer definitely came with two AA 0.4 cores. You may have lost one or maybe it was clogged and thrown away. the printer comes such that you can do 2 color prints with an AA in left and an AA in the right slot.

So my understanding is that there is a special support material that goes with FFF metal printing. So you can do overhangs (the threads) just fine. The point obviously can only be as sharp as the nozzle radius (typically 0.2 or .3mm) if you print on it's side or vertically. So either way the point will be like 0.4mm in diameter but it will be sharper if you print the screw on it's side and flat 0.4mm if you print it vertically. @SteveCox3D is an expert (well at least he knows MUCH more than I do). Maybe he can respond. I believe Steve has customers who save both money and time using FFF metal. Significant amounts of both (even companies with their own metal shop can have a multi month backlog). I think some customers make pretty boring things like brackets to replace a broken part in a factory and others print really amazing things like generative design (think computer AI designed) parts that can't be made any other way. If Steve doesn't reply, PM him with more questions and if he still doesn't reply, PM me and I'll give him a nudge as we are in the same chat group.

Please explore all the menus. There's not a lot there. Knowing what you can do in the menus will probably save you later. For example the "cold pull" feature may save you some day. Anyway - from memory - on the left side there are 3 menus. You want the middle one. Then the screen will show left core on left side, and right core on right side. There are two choices - for just temp select the middle (in height) image (I think it's the core?) and then in the top right corner click the "..." where you can set the temp. Or you can pick the upper image (should be the filament) and again click the "..." and select "MOVE" which will heat it up but I don't think you can choose the exact temp. But has the added benefit that you can move the filament. You can also move filament by just lifting the lever on the feeder and sliding the filament in or out by hand (as long as you don't have the material station).

If you have a 5mm square and your outer wall is 0.4mm (not nozzle size - this is the outer wall line width) then Cura will have your printer print a .4mm line as the outer wall and the movement of the gantry - the XY movement of the nozzle will cover 4.6mm (5.0mm - 0.4mm). The 0.4mm removed is .2mm on each side. In other words it will trace out a square that is .2mm moved inward from the edge as the radius of the "line width"/nozzle is 0.2mm. Anyway my point is cura does the math assuming the printer is perfect. Having said all that - it looks like you have an S5 so if you want accuracy - if you want dimensional accuracy - you should be using the "engineering" profiles. Cura has a few engineering profiles for most materials and most printcore sizes. The visual quality is worse for these profiles but the dimensional accuracy is quite a bit better. Try it. In other words the part might look a little worse but the micrometer calipers will be happier. If that's not enough accuracy for you then you probably have to alter your model by the amount of error. It's sad to say it but that's the best way to get the next level of accuracy after engineering mode. And realize that all other technologies (like injection molding) require someone to tweak the cad models so that the final printed part meets the design goals.

Interesting! After the homing procedure is over do a: G1 X0 Y0 and make sure it goes to the front left corner. It doesn't matter where the G28 leaves the Y axis as long as when you do this gcode it goes to the front left corner.

But you may have some other error like a faulty temp sensor in your printcore so I'd try a different core first.

I just watched this video. I never saw it before. It's pretty good. I watched it at 2X because at 1X it is annoyingly slow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGt8cnVIKW8 There are dozens of variations on how to do this that you will likely think of. I usually have an ideal "cold temp" and for PLA that's around 95C. For Nylon and ABS it is closer to 110C. Nylon is really a fantastic cleaning material but you can do it with any filament. Joel's method in the video of warming while pulling works and I do that also but I start at a higher temp than he does. You can also twist as you pull. In that case you can go much lower temperature and for PLA even room temperature. Most people don't twist. It works fine either way.

This is a complicated topic. I would try using a different core. Your printer should have come with two "AA 0.4" and one "BB 0.4" core. Assuming you are using one of the AA 0.4 cores, try using the other. If this fixes your issues then it could be a faulty core or you just might have to clean the nozzle. "curling" out of the nozzle is a sign that there might be some caramelized filament inside the very tip of the nozzle. Clean the nozzle with many cold pulls. There is a menu item on the printer, probably under "maintenance" that walks you through the process. I do cold pulls manually (I remove the bowden, change the temperature manually). To do it manually google "3d printing nozzle cold pull" and watch a video (can be any printer type -doesn't have to be an ultimaker).

I'm not familiar with this style of printer. This looks familiar from someone else's post. I think @GregValiant might understand this MUCH better than me. However I expected it to home to 0,0 (front left corner) and just stop. Why would it move at all afterwards? Did you home using a command on the printer? Does your printer even have a controller to control it? Or is does it print only through USB? Do you have the ability to control the printer without using a gcode file? Either through software like pronterface, or cura, or using some kind of controller on the printer? Do you know how to type in a gcode and watch the printer respond, and then type in a new gcode and watch the printer respond? That was what I was suggesting above. One gcode at a time. Watch what the printer does. See where the confusion is. I suspect the problem is that the printer is nowhere close to 350mm wide. To my eye that printer is MUCH smaller. But I really can't tell.

Please post your project file so we can see why it is printing the bottom layer. Do "file" "save project as" and post the resulting file. It will contain your STL model, your printer settings, your profile, and your individual overridden settings. That way we can recreate exactly what you see. It could be many things. You may have "raft" turned on. It may be that your STL file is slightly above the print bed. It could be many other things as well. Note also that your infill was parallel to your part initially and in a later post you are at 45 degrees to the cube. There are many infill options to change the angle and use different infill patterns.

Okay I think I understand your issue. Finally. You want to print SVG files of text. You want to print signs. And the latest cura doesn't read svg files. However cura will print png files. So here is what you do: 1) Convert your svg image to a png file. You can do this with a screen capture or the software you used to create the svg file can output a png instead. Choose resolution carefully. 2) Read the png file into cura and play with the settings to get the height and scale you want. 3) In cura settings set top/bottom to zero. Disable infill. Choose line width and wall settings carefully to make sure you get only one line width for your wall. None of the 3 steps are particularly hard but you may have trouble at one or more steps. Let me know if you get stuck. There are youtube videos about this. Search "how to 3d print an svg file".

@a5421306 - please stop posting in chinese. This part of the forum is English only. Well there is @ahoeben - he is a very good programmer and used to work for Ultimaker. He has done significant modifications to cura before. However I believe he is quite busy. Also he would probably want quite a bit of money - like 100 euros per hour. Also you are working with Cura 2.X which would be annoying as that is a very old version of Cura. You might just want to try the latest version of Cura instead? If your particular printer isn't already part of the latest Cura list of printers you can usually just choose a generic printer and enter a few things like the print bed size and it usually just works.

First I would home the machine and then send commands for the machine to move to 0,0 such as: G1 X0 Y0 Then I would move the head just a little to see which way it moves G1 X10 Y10 Then if the first point was front left corner and second was moving towards the center I would try G1 X175 Y120 If the center is around 175, 120 then I think the printer is working fine where the center is around 175,120. But perhaps not? Perhaps your printer isn't really 350 wide and 240 deep? Perhaps it's much smaller and that is the problem - in that you entered the wrong values into cura machine size. If the above commands worked perfectly then I don't understand because the gcodes you posted above are well within those values.

By the way if you have older firmware it doesn't report the number on the screen but you can get it from the log file if you open the file containing "boot0.log" in the filename and search for "noise std". When I did the test I got a noise value of 2.2. A friend of mine got a 3. Again, anything < 8 is pass.

By the way when you go to print and the core doesn't match up you'll get a warning. But you can just ignore that. There will be an ignore button.