gr5

Did it help? Is it now overextruding or is it about right?

@SteveCox3D?? Can you help this guy? I don't know much about metal. At a quick glance, matterhackers seems to have it in stock - is this the right thing? https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/basf-ultrafuse-bvoh-support-material/sk/M9YQ12NH (make sure you get the 2.85, not the 1.75)

Maybe you don't need a brim. Does your part have rounded corners? How long is it on the bed in the longest dimension? Did you use a surface preparation like magigoo?

You are extruding only about half of what you should be. Maybe something is off by 2X? Maybe you told cura you have 2.85mm filament but you are actually using 1.75mm filament?

If you don't have the material station then it's easy to test the feeder - you fight it when the filament is not yet in the printer head. It should take around 10 pounds force to be able to pull the filament backwards when the feeder is trying to pull the filament forwards. Since I think you *do* have the material station I'm not sure how to do that test.

It's not about how clean the cold pull is. It's about the shape - does it bulge out? More than the AA core? That bulge can get stuck and cause underextrusion, no extrusion, or it might work fine during printing but then you can't get the filament out of the printcore. You posted screenshots of error messages but I'm not familiar with that exact error so I'm not sure if the failure is during printing or after printing is complete. I'm guessing it's the flow sensor that is noticing a problem. Sometimes the flow sensor is just plain wrong. You can view the flow sensor results while you are printing. Go to the url of your printer's ip address and look at that page and there is a link to the temperature graph which includes flow sensor data.

Actually I think you can probably power the 12V revo with 24V but just beware that will be 4X the power and that means the power supply that comes with the UMO+ won't be able to run both the nozzle and bed at full power all the time but hopefully in the duet configuration (certainly in Marlin) you can limit the max power to the nozzle heater to be 25%.

For an UMO+? In that case yes a duet would be great. Even better go with something compatible with Klipper (klipper3d.org) which is where all the innovation has been these last 5 years. Keep in mind the print bed is PT100 sensor also and many 3d printing hardware don't work well with pt100. If you go for duet then get one of these adapters for the heated bed: https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Temperature_connecting_PT100 Also the bed heater needs 24V. The servos on UMO will work with 12V or 24V but 24V may give you more torque. The revo comes I believe in 12V or 24V versions. Make damn sure you get the 24V version if you are going to use the UMO 24V heated bed (putting 12V into the heated bed gives you 1/4 the power - half the voltage gives you half the power with heaters - which would make it pretty useless). Duet handles either voltage. It would be a shame to switch to 12V just because you bought the wrong revo. duet recommends 24V even though it will work with 12V. But if you are an experienced programmer and not afraid of a bit of math or if you know a little about electric circuits, then you can just change the sensor table, rebuild marlin and use that.

Marlin is expecting a very simple circuit where there is a 4.7k or 47k (depending on which sensor table you use) resistor in series with the temperature probe. But the Ultimainboard V2.1.4 which goes on the UM2 printer has an op-amp circuit that is much more complicated and designed specifically for PT100 resistors. I recommend PT100 resistors as they are great. They are cheap, can be tiny, and come in all kinds of sizes. And every PT100 resistor table is identical to every other no matter the manufacturer. Unlike normal thermistors. However it might be possible to create your own resistor table. Maybe. I'd look at the circuitry first and figure out what resistance results in what voltage at the "arduino" first and then from there you could use that info plus the thermistor table you have. You might find that when the temp gets above or below a certain temperature you are at the full scale reading of the ADC so it might not be possible.

3dsolex.com has printcores from 0.1mm (yes! very tiny) to around 2.5mm including 0.6. They have changeable nozzles so you can try .4, .6 and .8 with one printcore. Maybe you got a defective CC 0.6. I really don't know. is it a "CC 0.6 red" or a regular "CC 0.6"? (or is there only a regular "CC 0.4"?)? I've lost track of the CC printcore varieties. The CC 0.6 should work fine with any filament that an AA 0.4 will print. I would do some cold pulls (google if you don't know what this is) on a working core like an AA 0.4 and on the CC 0.6 until you get a really nice shaped tip with the narrow end included. Then I would examine the diameter of the pulled filament with calipers and maybe insert it cold back into the core to see how tight it is. The issue that can happen is that the teflon tube which is basically inside the aluminum fin section, can either be too large such that if the material melts in that cooler section and gets thicker, it can cause a clog where it won't go down through the heat break and it won't go up through the top of the core. OR it can be that the teflon tube is too short and there is a gap of air just above the heat break and molten filament can get in there and cool and get stuck. After "broken fan" this is the most likely cause of materials stuck in a core. I really don't know. It could also be the flow sensor I suppose? Did you make sure you have "line width" set to 0.6? For a CC 0.6 core printing PLA I would probably use an AA 0.4 profile (they are better debugged) and set the line width to 0.6 and then when you go to print it will say "wrong printcore" or something and you can hit "ignore". But really it seems to me the problem is most likely with the printcore but that sucks as that's the most expensive core.

Dustin I doubt it's the version of Cura. LXXXIII - there are many possible causes. The most common by far is that the front fan stopped working. The printer doesn't have a way of knowing this. The 2 symptoms is low or failed extrusion after 5 to 20 minutes of printing and having trouble getting the filament out of the print core after it has cooled. So heat either printcore to 100C and as it passes around 40C the fan should start spinning. Open the front cover to make sure it really is spinning. If that works then it's most likely a problem with the printcore. The teflon inside after a lot of use can have issues where there is now a space for the filament to expand into, then cool/harden, then get stuck. Printcores are considered expendable (like filament) and should be replaced occasionally.

I tend to agree with Dustin. Can you use negative values for your macros? Will your printer handle those okay? If not you can add M92 commands to your macro. In the above example where you want to print only X>=10 you could add: G0 X10 M92 X0 M92 tells the printer where it is. It says "I know you think you are at x=10 but really this is X=0 now". Then on the tool change you can do something like: G0 X0 M92 X10 The above says - okay were are reversing what we said before. To answer your question, yes you can define forbidden zones. I don't know how to do it exactly. It's done for example for the UM series printers to say where the bed clips are. The areas are described in a text file that I think is either javascript ".js" or json ".json"? Something like that. They are somewhere among the thousands of files installed when you install cura. If you edit one, then restart cura to have cura reload all of those. There is discussion on how to set this kind of thing up for custom printer settings around this forum. Maybe use google to search something like "customizing print area for my printer".

The teal stuff is called "support". There is a checkbox you can uncheck to disable support called "generate support". Or you can disable just portions. It looks to me like you definitely need a little bit of support on those "posts" that hand downwards over air. You can't just print over air with most 3d printers. So there are lots of features to add/remove/tweak support. In this case I would probably use the support blocker feature. Watch a youtube video - maybe search "cura support blocker". The way you do it has changed over the years but it's extremely similar and won't have changed much. First step is to click to add a single cube of support blocker. Then select that cube and scale and move it in 3 dimensions to get it to enclose all the red areas of your model that don't need support. Support blocker is a bit confusing as people put the blocker down on the bed where they don't want the support. Instead you need to put it over the red areas of your model (areas that are red in PREPARE view).

I completely misunderstood. I thought you were saying there is a 3rd sensor wire from the fan. But now I see you are talking about the "active leveling sensor". This is from the UM3 print head PCB which is almost identical to the S5 but is slightly wider. J7 is the bed sensor (active leveling). J1,J2,J4 are for the 3 fans.

For other people reading this thread - you don't have to inspect the fan to know if it's working. If you heat either core above 60C the front fan is supposed to be spinning (it's more complicated - it will turn on sooner if you are heating and turn off when the temp goes below 60C when cooling). So just open the door and look at the fan and then heat either printcore in the menu.

Since you seem to be in the USA I would email support@fbrc8.com. They assembled your printer (they assemble all the printers sold in USA) and have some really smart people there. People like @fbrc8-erin who might answer directly here but the safe bet is to email them. Include your printer's serial number for faster response. Erin and other's often go the extra mile and will likely either already know the answer or will be able to check since they have these parts in their stockroom. They'll also know the history of if/when the part changed and things like that.

That's underextrusion but only on the end of the part. Please post your project file. In cura menu do "file" "save project..." and post that file here. It will contain your model among many many other things so hopefully it's okay to post your model. Without seeing your settings (all 500) and your model, make sure "retract on layer change" is disabled and consider unchecking both jerk and acceleration control. Unchecking jerk and accel will increase ringing which is visible and some people think is ugly but what you have here is much worse than ringing (in my opinion). Unchecking jerk and accel control will increase part accuracy as shown with calipers and such but will increase ringing features which are too small to measure with a caliper but are quite visible.

That mode is disabled unless you are only using one extruder. You have to explicitly disable the second extruder in the PREPARE screen (which is where you also pick which filaments go with which printcores and which printer you are using and so on. "one at a time" has major caveats. If the parts are too tall they will hit the bars that go through the print head when the bed comes back up for the second part. The print head is large so the parts have to be spaced out more than the width of the head (this is automated or at least it shows you when parts are too close).

I would turn off retract at layer change. That caused a lot of ugliness and underextrusions for me but that's not your issue as it would only wreck one of those parts. The combination of the two settings Maximum Retraction Count and Minimum Extrusion Distance Window can prevent retractions from happening if set wrong. I think that is fine but to be sure, look at your part in PREVIEW mode and set color scheme to "Line Type" and make sure "travels" is checked. If you do all that then you can see the travel (non printing) moves in blue. Light blue lines are retraction moves, dark blue (solid dark blue - very blue) lines are non-retracting. Make sure the areas where you have the stringing is light blue (meaning you have retraction). I suspect you do. Turn off z hop when retracted. z hop causes all manner of issues if you don't have a delta printer (it sounds like this is an S5). The retraction distance of 6.5mm assumes you have a normal bowden on a normal S5. Cura has 8mm for me on my profile (nylon/pva) right now. Maybe because nylon is springier? I don't know. I think these values tend to be carefully chosen but I'm not 100% sure. You want to reduce the pressure in the nozzle without actually pulling the filament up out of the print core which would let air in the nozzle and make stringing worse. You can listen and watch the filament at the top of the arc of the bowden tube and you should see it just rest at the bottom of the tube (what I am trying to say is more understandable if you just watch the process a few times) without pulling up out of the print head. The retraction distance is longer if the bowden is loose - try pulling up and pushing down gently on the bowden at the feeder end and the print head to make sure it doesn't move. If it moves up and down by 1mm then the retraction distance should be increased by 1mm or you should fix that "play". Finally - I suspect the most likely problem is you aren't using PLA and are using PETG or CPE or nGen that has absorbed some water. These materials print quite well without being dried but I'm told one issue is they string much more. Let me know what material you are using and I can give you drying instructions - it's hard to get the drying process correct. Most people dry at too low a temp, or they don't unspool, or they don't dry long enough, or they heat the base of the spool but where the top of the spool is 30C cooler. Typically I dry at 70C (that's much too hot for pla! It will destroy your pla) with the necessary quantity unspooled and sitting on the heated bed under the spool with a towel over it all and for about 4-12 hours. And one more thing - there is an option "print one at a time" where there is less retraction but you still need retraction even on a single part so I almost didn't mention this. It would mean printing many fewer parts at a time.

It looks like you need to enable support. Or design your own custom support into the model.

That's not a project file. In cura do "file" "save project..." and then post that file. It will include the STL file you link to above but will also include your printer settings, your material settings, your profile settings and your overrides. Also it will include the orientation and scaling of your part and can include multiple parts. Basically it sets us up exactly the same as you just before you hit the "slice" button.

I'd power cycle it two more times giving it 2 minutes to boot but if that doesn't work then I'd do a firmware recovery procedure. You can try it on your own based on these instructions or since it looks like you are in the USA you can email support@fbrc8.com for more detailed instructions (well, instructions that have the latest firmware version anyway) and if you go the email route then include your serial number of the printer in the email.

The hardest thing to print is like a long pencil shape that goes from one end to the other end of the bed. The upper layers pull hard and lift the part at the extreme ends and once off the glass it continues towards the center for a while. So on a part like that (basically any long part) you want to add brim. You can do the brim in cad. And you can do it just on the ends if you want. If you want to try it without brim it helps a lot to round the corners quite a bit so the lifting forces are distributed a bit. It also helps to be above the softening temp of the material (PLA softens at 52C so you want 60C bed temp, ABS softens at 99C so you want 110C bed temp Nylon doesn't have a softening temp but it gets more flexible and for tough prints I like 100C bed temp for nylon (if there is no PVA involved).

I don't think anyone is 3d printing artificial organs. I suppose maybe heart valves? I don't know much about this subject. Please tell us more. Do you mean prosthetics? Like for people who lost a hand or foot?

I just jumped into this thread for the first time and didn't read much of the posts (sorry) but I have 2 important points: If the border is perfect and the interior not great then it's probably not a leveling issue. Also this printer has active leveling which, if it doesn't fail with an error message, usually works perfectly every time. Again - if border is good - leveling should be good. Failures a few minutes into the print are usually caused by the front fan failing or an issue with the teflon in the core either not long enough, or interior diameter too large either of which can cause the filament to get stuck in the teflon section (inside where the cooling fins are on the print core). Don't get the front fan confused with the 2 side fans. The front fan cools the print cores. The side fans cool the plastic part you are creating.