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Cura said that? Well I see two possibilities: 1) That particular filament has large particles that will clog a 0.4 nozzle so it is just not allowed. 2) Possibly there are no profiles for that filament and the CC 0.4 so you could just choose a generic PETG profile or you could choose a CC 0.6 profile but change line width (all of them - there are like 6 of them) to 0.4mm. So I looked on their website and I so no mention of minimum nozzle size. I'd email them. And if they say 0.4 should be fine then just use the CC 0.6 profile and change line width. These profiles are typically very simple - just use another one and change line width. Or you can even slice for "generic PETG".

Thanks for explaining that the nozzle doesn't touch the buildplate in failure mode. 99% of people don't mention this and it's crucial information as there are 2 other failure modes. I believe in the maintenance menu there is a way to test the sensor. It should return a value. Values at 8 and below are good. The larger the value the more noise or something is detected? I'm not sure exactly. Values around 15 I think cause intermittent failures. Anyway run that test a few times to get a baseline and assuming it's well over 8 try some things and try to get that to a lower value. Get a baseline with the 3 fans off and again with the front fan on (actually maybe you are forced to have the front on during the test? not sure). Check the two wires to the sensor. When you open the front door on the print head the sensor swings down - it's in the base of the print head. It's basically a flat metal plate and the capacitance is determined by the distance from that plate to the metal plate under the glass bed. Tug very gently on the two wires to see if one pulls free because it's not connected at all or was barely connected. That was my issue on my printer when it was failing active leveling. Next fan cable. Try rerouting the front fan wires. Or unplugging the fan. Sometimes the solution is to replace the front fan. If it works fine with the fan off but fails with the fan on then you need to either route the fan cables farther from the sensor cables or you need to get a new fan. I believe the side fans don't matter because I think they are off during leveling.

Okay I just read this: So I think the stepper is fine. UM stepper drivers can put out 2Amps but I think they can overheat if they put out more than around 1.2 to 1.5 amps for very long. The UM2 has software controllable current limiting (which limits the power of the stepper). If the drivers overheat they shut off for a moment (usually less than a second but the stepper loses position). Only putting out 1 amp is fine as long as you don't try to get too much torque out of the stepper. If the torque gets too high and the current is limited then you lose a step (the motor "slips"). No physical damage is done - it's absolutely fine to do this - but you get underextrusion. Also you can hear the "click" when the stepper jumps back.

I saw another one that was 12V. Maybe 2.8V *is* a problem? I don't understand how they can have 2 steppers with the same torque but one says 2.8V and the other says 12V and they both take about 2 amps. It doesn't make sense to me. Perhaps these are maximum DC voltages that the steppers can handle. But stepper drivers don't do that they put out sine waves of voltage and current and power. I suspect that stepper will work fine but I'm not a stepper expert.

9 years later! wow. That stepper looks good to me but I don't know a lot about steppers. The most concerning thing is that it mentions 2.8V. 2.8V?? UM puts out 24V to the steppers. But I think it's the right kind of stepper. I believe "hybrid" is correct. And the amperage looks correct. Everything looks right except that 2.8V.

@nallath - do you know how to get this version of Cura 2.0 to output gcode instead of only gcx files? @a5421306 - I really don't know how to do what you want but the configuration file you are looking for is probably in github if you go back 7 years there should be configuration files for several different types of output including "Marlin" style gcode files. Perhaps if you download this zip file you can find what you need? I'm not sure. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/2.1.0

You shouldn't have to edit any files. There are settings in cura to choose gcode versus gcx output. What version of Cura are you using? Cura 15.X? In Cura 15.X you change it here - where it says "g-code flavor" Change it to "Marlin" which gives you gcode and not gcx output.

Please post a picture. 90% of issues with PVA is due to insufficient drying. Despite using lots of desiccant I have to dry my PVA before every print. I set the heated bed to 60C. I look in cura to see how many meters are needed (in bottom right corner hover over on the "i" in the circle). Then I unspool that much and put it on the hot glass with the spool on top of that. Let it dry for 4-8 hours before printing. You should see different results. Please post a picture. Wet PVA prints snowier. Whiter. Dry PVA is clearer. Very wet PVA sputters and crackles and you can see the steam.

"retract at layer change". Make sure that is unchecked. Also look at it in layer view where it underextrudes and use the *horizontal* scroll bar (the one at the bottom center of the screen) to see what order it is printing everything and what happens just before the underextrusion.

Oh don't embarrass me! 🤭 Thanks about the video comments. My videos the last 2 years have improved greatly but none of the recent ones are about 3d printing unfortunately. Anyway if you figure it out some day let us know.

The link is broken at the moment. I think this is related to the merge of Makerbot and Ultimaker and I think they are fixing these broken links.

I hate to say this but the easiest solution would be to measure the angle of tilt that you want to correct and correct for it in cad. It's an ugly solution but will give you very good results. How is the inner diameter of those probe tubes? A more common issue in 3d printing is that vertical holes are smaller than the cad model. Typically by around 0.4mm.

I'm not sure what the issue is but we are assuming the white breakaway is pulling on the bottom tips of the cylinders? Towards the other end of the part? If so it appears to be doing this by only pulling on the tip as you can see a gap - here there is a gap between the support and the part between the red circle and the teal support. If this is the issue then at least getting rid of the raft will have one of the 2 cones touching the print bed.

I've never heard of the "secondary development version". Can you please be more specific? Where did you find this version exactly. Why won't it let you change the output (would be in machine settings - I can explain where).

Also make sure you are using engineering profiles. the default profiles are for parts that look good. The engineering profiles are for parts that are dimensionally accurate. I don't think changing to an engineering profile will make any difference in this specific case.

Could you please post your project file (or at least your STL file)? It will contain your model and all your machine settings and your profile and the settings override for that. Mostly I want to see how the part is *supposed* to be. In general all distortions are usually explained by contraction. Not expansion. So maybe the PVA is contracting and pulling inwards at the ends? If you have a micrometer maybe you can measure if one end is shorter than it should be or if the other end is longer than it should be. It looks like you printed a raft. Perhaps the raft is pulling things inwards. Perhaps it would do better without a raft. If you are having problems with things sticking to the glass bed then use the glue stick and then use a wet tissue to spread the glue around evenly and to also thin out the glue (reduce the total amount) both of which will help parts stick to the glass.

Like the very first post says: "P.S. nozzle is unclogged now after 20+ cold/hot pulls" Hot and cold pulls really helps. If absolutely not a single atom comes out of the nozzle then start with the cold pulls. This option is somewhere in the maintenance menu on the S5. Or you can just buy them. They are considered "consumables" like filament. once you start to think of them that way, buying a new one seems like a good option.

I can think of about 5 things that it could be. I guess I would start with a "factory reset". It's in the menu somewhere. Certain values like the size, scaling, and location of things like where the purge location is and of course the size of the print bed are stored in a special part of the eeprom in specific locations and each version of the firmware stores those in a slightly different spot and if you load older firmware over existing newer firmware they get all messed up (but going the other way is fine as newer firmware know where the older firmware stored everything). Factory reset resets all that to defaults but unfortunately it will immediately make you level the bed and such but I think this is the best route. It could be related to steps/mm for X or Y axis off or it could be doing too few substepping (probably not). I think you should show a video of the problem if FACTORY RESET doesn't fix it. It could be also a problem with the homing procedure (should go to the back left corner when you home). So maybe show that in the video also. You can't post videos here but you can post on google drive or youtube or 100 other locations.

I don't think you should be messing with this stuff if you aren't at least at a beginner level linux user. You can brick your printer very easily if you make a mistake by just a single character in your edits. Maybe you have a friend. Maybe it's time to learn some linux. However to answer your questions, use google. Google "using nano editor in linux" or spend an hour or two learning vi (not recommended - vi is pretty universally hated as you will see once you try to use it). Linux is an extremely popular operating system. So there are millions of things on the internet to help you learn it and use it and configure it for every possible thing you can think of. Unfortunately if you make one bad edit on an ultimaker printer configuration file such as this one, the Ultimaker code refuses to launch the ssh daemon if there are certain typos in these config files and so once you reboot the printer you can't get back in using ssh to fix it. So then you have a bricked printer that won't print and you have to open up the printer to get physical access and you need either a serial cable or use a uSD to do the (not trivial) recovery procedure and start over.

Not sure I understand the question. Do you know how to use ssh? Did you get into the linux system on the printer? Did you locate the service file? Did you edit it? Are you familiar with the vi editor? If not I think you might be able to use the nano editor which is pretty easy. To restart your printer you turn it off and on again. But I'm pretty sure you already knew that.

If it's a k1 issue it may be intermittent. Did you try doing home (without power cycling)? It only changes the issue if you want to fix this yourself. If your company is going to pay then just get a new servo controller board. Contact your reseller (the company that sold you the printer). If you don't know the reseller you can ask Ultimaker as they should have records for every serial number I believe? support.ultimaker.com and click "submit a request" in the top right corner. Well a bit left from the top right corner. Maybe the 4th thing in.

Better to make the holes bigger in blender than mess with mesh modifiers in cura. If you ever want to print this a second time you will have to remember how to place the holes perfectly but if it's part of the model then that information is saved with the model.

There are 2 major boards on the S5. One of them has the linux computer which is a powerful computer similar to those found in an old iphone. The other has an arduino computer which is pretty wimpy. The firmware on the linux computer is a full operating system with millions of lines of code and not good for real time stuff. The arduino computer has much simpler code (still probably 10k lines of code) and is well understood and works very dependably for controlling servos. The firmware is called "Marlin". Anyway it's the same board with just a few changes as on the UM2 printer. On that board are the switches for controlling the 3 heaters (2 cores, one print bed) circuitry for some of the fans, and all 4 servos. That board gets 24V which is lowered to 3.3V or 5V (not sure) to power the arduino and most of the electronics. Also it reads the limit switches but that's not relevant here. The 24V (after powering the lower voltage) passes through a critical relay. It's the biggest part on the board I think. It's the only relay so it's K1 (there's no K2). That relay can fail. It failed on my first UM2 printer. I could wack the relay and suddenly the printer would be fine until I power cycled it. The symptom is interesting - almost everything works - the arduino is powered up and happy so it talks to the linux computer fine so the linux computer things everything is fine. It can talk to the arduino fine. If not you would get a "motion controller error" on the S5 when you booted up. Every time. But that 24V, after going through K1 only powers a few things - mostly things that use more power: all 3 heaters, servos, and I think some of the fans. I thought of K1 because it happened to me. And many other people. I spoke to one of the founders about it and he said "you can just bypass k1 with a wire. It was for a feature that we never actually implemented where you could connect it to a smoke detector or something to cut all power to things that might be causing a fire". It was never implemented in the S5 either and is still just a wasteful point of failure. So I just put a wire bypassing it. But this is a work S5 and your company can probably afford to just get another "motion controller board". I do have photos and such of how to fix/bypass K1 in another post.

If the bed won't heat up then it's the relay K1 on the servo controller board. If your printer is out of warranty there is a really easy fix involving a soldering iron where you can bypass K1 (I did this years ago and no issues). If it's still under warranty they can send you a new board. The board is not cheap but I guess work will pay for it. What country are you in? If you are in the USA, contact support@fbrc8.com and send them the serial number and explain that the servos don't move at all when you tell it to home the head and tell them about the bed heater working (or not) as well. If you are not in USA, contact your reseller right away (where you bought the printer). I'd also do a support ticket immediately in case your reseller is not quick at helping customers. You want someone to mail you a new board today.