gr5

Warning - if you don't use glue stick or any other type of surface prep - it's that much more important to keep the surface free of oils that can come from you hands so you should clean the glass regularly. Personally, rather than magigoo (which is better), I use a mixture of elmers wood glue to water (about 20 parts water to 1 part glue - ratio is not critical) and brush it on and heat the bed so it dries faster. alternatively use the included glue stick and spread with a wet tissue if you need more stick and don't spread it around with wet tissue if you want it to release better.

I'm pretty sure you have to apply a scary amount of force but I'm pretty sure they pop apart. I think there is like a cat's paw from each side that grabs the other and that could break in theory but in practice I think they pop apart. if you aren't in a rush let's ask @IRobertI. I suspect he's taken many apart. These are certainly a pain to get back together. I also think they are identical to the black ones but a different type of plastic that is less likely to crack (they have had cracking issues in the area where they clip to the rods). Same mold. I think. I forget if the white ones or the black ones are better. I think black are better on S5. (and the opposite with the UM3: black ones crack more, white ones better, life is crazy). It looks like you are in USA so you should contact support@fbrc8.com with an email (and include your serial number! That saves time as they will ask anyway). They are experts on the S5 partly because they built all the ones sold in USA and partly because they don't hire idiots.

What kind of printer do you have? There are some non ultimaker experts here.

Ah. Yes. Sometimes I'm glad I don't have the material station. Definitely talk to your reseller. I definitely don't know what to do with these. There's a good chance you will learn to take the MS apart and clean something in there and put it back together. I don't think it's very complicated or difficult but I know very little about this. I'm not sure how support works these days but you can also create a support ticket and someone from UM will hopefully get back to you. in upper right corner of this page, click the 9 dots then choose support then in the line above the banner (top of web page above banner) click "submit a request". Include the 2 photos you just posted above.

I'm sure it does as there isn't a lot of difference between cura 4.1 and 5.1. @foehnsturm Any thoughts?

I'd contact your reseller. They should be able to support you. Can you say exactly which motion errors you are getting? they have numbers and a web page like for example "ER65" which would then be explained in detail at ultimaker.com/ER65

That's fine but your win10 machine is now tethered and the printer is more dependent on it than normal but it should work if you know how to configure your win10 machine properly. I don't but I'm sure google can tell you how to setup DHCP and setup your ethernet port as a hub/router. On the other hand, for just $40 (or less) you could try the link above.

Please post your project file so we can see what is going on. In cura do "file" "save project..." and post that file here. It will contain your model(s) and your machine settings, profile, and your settings overrides.

"with cabinets". Does that mean you have the material station because if so then that complicates things a lot. If not then there is a quick test you can do. I don't know if this works with the MS or not but it works without the MS. Go into the middle menu on the left and then click on the upper area where they show the filament types for left and right side. Pick one. Then click on the "..." in the upper right corner and choose "MOVE". Then retract the filament until you see it in the bowden and then move it forward a little (keeping so you can see the end of the filament) and fight the filament with one hand below the feeder while turning the dial to move the filament forwards. The feeder can pull up to about 15 pounds max. 10 pounds or 4kg of pulling power I would consider passing. 5 pounds of pulling power will print okay but I would consider that broken.

Regarding Nylon - I love nylon. PLA is 10X easier to print but sometimes I need a tougher matrial - something just a little more flexible and nylon does the trick. Also PVA and Nylon stick very well (unfortunately printing pla on top of pva doesn't work so well - it works but barely). But you really have to become a nylon expert meaning 100 prints before you get it right every time. What a pain to learn but good stuff. Also I always get the "natural" nylon and dye it if I need it colored. Nylon soaks up dye in under a minute (you have to heat the dye to boiling temp though) and it looks gorgeous once dyed. I also hate nylon, lol. I dry it so much it is hard and brittle when I first print and I have to let it sit in the air for a week to get to its desired flexibility. Different companies make very different nylon (e.g. lately I've been printing Taulman Bridge and is very different from Ultimaker Nylon and the bed needs to be at 100C or it just won't stick). When I dye nylon it looks great but then it often leaks out dye-water for a day or two afterwards.

You definitely want different magigoo for different materials. Each magigoo is different. Those guys worked really hard to get that to work and not chip the glass and have the part come off easily when it cools. They definitely test on UM printers with glass so that's a huge benefit for UM printer owners.

Do you have the material station? If so I would call your reseller and let them help you debug this. Likely you will have to remove some or all bowdens to find the location of the problem. Or maybe it really is the feeders but that seems unlikely as the feeders are so reliable.

1) That would be a lot of work - you would have to be reasonably good with linux and see if it already has the USB/ethernet driver and if not download it and install it using wget or similar linux utility and then set it up with conman which is all doable if you are good with linux and you would also lose all of that work each time you upgraded the firmware. Instead maybe get something more like this: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE/ 2) Regarding active leveling - there are known issues and known fixes. What is the number that displays when you do the leveling sensor check? <8 is good. 3 is more typical for a good printer. The fixes usually involve replacing the side fans as they have coils and I'm guessing they act as antennas. You can unplug them to prove it is fan related but unplugging involves taking apart the head so not trivial. Since you have had trouble since the beginning you should be able to get replacement fans for free - or whatever service is necessary. Typically they replace the leveling sensor which is never the issue, then the board in the print head, then the cabling and finally the fans which is usually the issue (I think - not an expert). 3) What are these other issues about first or second try? Is this also active leveling or something different?

7/8 inch is 22.2mm

Is it possible you are slicing for the S3 but printing on the S5 printer? I don't know if the nominal offset between the nozzles is controlled by the printer itself or by cura. I'm thinking maybe it's cura and the problem is with your machine settings somehow? It looks like the value is here - 22mm check this for your machine settings (must go into PREPARE mode in cura, then click your printer dropdown and "manage printers"

I have a friend who has something like 12 S5 printers and I'm pretty sure he told me that he got custom flex plates made up. I forget the brand but it's super well known brand and they do custom plates for any size you ask and the price is reasonable.

No, I don't think that's it. It does active leveling and you can't (well there is a nice hack) turn that off on the S3. I think the best solution for Nylon on glass on an S3 is magigoo. there is a formulation just for nylon on glass. So did you come home with the S3 or not? 🙂 If you print Nylon and PVA you should know that you need to keep both of those extremely dry. 25% humidity is too high. Desiccant is usually not good enough (unless you have a lot and you get it down to like 16% which isn't easy with desiccant). If you print PLA you probably won't mind that you don't have a flex plate. To answer the flex plate question... I think they will some day. Maybe they'll even have an upgrade for the S3. Or you can buy 3rd party solutions right now (many do).

In general, vertical holes (and inner diameter of vertical cylinders) always print about .4mm too small. PLA is like snot when melted - it sticks to itself strongly. Like a liquid rubber band. And it is also cooling and shrinking in the first milliseconds that it leaves the nozzle. So it is like a liquid rubber band. While printing the circle of the inside of those cylinders it is being pulled inwards while still in the liquid "mucus" state. The outside of cylinders and corners are also pulled inwards but not nearly so much because they are supported by existing solid filament further inwards. The force is not very strong so it doesn't take much to hold it in place. In contrast the warping caused by long sections (like when printing a pencil flat on the bed) cooling/shrinking can be very strong.

Yes you can edit the offset directly without doing the calibration and I believe when you do that it shows you the old values.

I believe the XY calibration is stored per printcore pair. The cal values are stored based on 2 serial numbers (one from each core). So most people have to do it once or twice ever. Once for the AA 0.4/AA 0.4 combination and once for their AA 0.4/BB 0.4 combination (much more common I expect). If you add a few more cores and combinations then maybe you have to calibrate quite a few times I suppose. Or if you are often buying new cores (I've never had to).

I think perhaps @IRobertI knows the answer to your questions. I have also been annoyed by the example for the exact same reason. However in practice I think I've never gone beyond +/- 2. But I only have one UM3 and one S5 so maybe I got lucky. I'm not sure how you got .15mm. Did you do this after doing the XY cal or by looking at the pdf file? I'm not sure if the two things match very well. I think it's much smaller than .15mm. More likely .05mm or .025mm? Someone told me once - but now I forget.

The 0.6 can definitely print double the flow and the 0.8 4X the total flow (not speed - flow - so thicker layers and thicker lines are the typical way to get there) and yes your printer should be fine at the speeds you had in your 3mf file that you posted above. I'm just trying to get a handle on things. I'd replace the teflon part next. There is a test you can do and it might teach you something important but it may still "pass" even though you need a new teflon part. Here's the test: Do a cold pull possibly before you start to get the hot end cleaned out. Remove the filament and separate bowden from test head. Remove the nozzle. Let things cool to below 50C in the hot end. now cut some filament off the spool and pass it through the print head, feeling the resistance. Sometimes this can be enlightening. I think it's mentioned in the list above but one person realized that if they loosened the 4 long screwd through the head just a half turn suddenly the friction dropped by a pound or two. Sometimes when you have it like this with the teflon compressed, you can feel the high resistance of the filament through the teflon and know that it's time to change the teflon. The failure mode is that the teflon - after being above 200C for 500-1000 hours gets quite soft like rubber. But only the part of the teflon that is touching the heater block so only the bottom 1mm or so. With no pressure it works fine but when you push down on it from above (from the hot end mechanics and/or the bowden can push pretty hard as well) that soft teflon compresses inward and squeezes the filament. Hard. See 6a, 6b, 6c above. There's certainly something wrong with the printer and this is probably the most likely at this point as you read through the list once and you eliminated a few possibilities. Did you look at the photo that #24 points to? That's a surprisingly common issue.

Well again, there are clues if you see steam coming out of the nozzle when you load the filament or if you hear crackling/popping of boiling water or if you see a snowy like look to the PVA versus more transparent (this is tougher to describe). I always have a *little* steam so it's hard to say how much is okay. By the way, if the PVA gets too dry it gets brittle. I'm told. I assume that is around 10% humidity. Not sure. I've never had that problem.

So have you recently tried a new spool? If it also has trouble then I would do hot and cold pulls of your PVA in the BB core. The tip of the nozzle - just inside the nozzle - the narrowest part - can get caramelized PVA build up on the inner surface. Doing 10 or so cold pulls should clean that up. This reduces the diameter of the hole in the nozzle when you get buildup like this.

It might still be humidity. At least for me personally, I've found 25% is still much too humid. I am now getting it down to about 15-18% and I'm not sure if that's enough or not. I end up drying the filament so often even when it is stored at 18% humidity but not sure if I need to. I use a cup (1/4 liter) of desiccant per spool and I recharge the desiccant about once per month as even in a zip lock there seems to be small leaks. Or maybe the desiccant is just slowly removing moisture from the newly exposed filaments over many weeks. A better test is to look at the color of the printed material. The bottom layer should be very difficult to see - transparent. Higher layers should not be snowy (which implies tiny bubbles) but somewhat transparent.