gr5

Well it's time to start a ticket then at: support.ultimaker.com What country are you in Suminvent? Please update your profile settings to indicate your country in the location field. Did you test the glass also to see if it is also flat within .1mm or so? (the thickness of a piece of paper).

I did experiments and found that for very small parts speed affects overhang quite a bit but for large parts it doesn't. It turns out cooling is very important where there are overhangs. So maybe a better feature would be the current "minimum layer time" but have an alternate, slower layer time for areas with overhang. But really the two numbers are probably 5 seconds for vertical and non-overhangs and 10 seconds for parts with 45 degree or worse overhangs. This is a feature that isn't really needed that much as I assume most people usually print larger parts that need more than 10 seconds per layer most of the time anyway so just upping the existing min layer time to 10 seconds might be all we really need.

By the way with a .8mm shell the "evil infill" might still be there but it might not hurt the details anymore as there will be two .4mm shell passes protecting the outside from the "evil infill".

You shell thickness is .6mm. This is a bad idea - it should always be a multiple of your nozzle size (which is .4mm). I recommend changing this to .8mm. This might not fix your issue. Or it might fix your issue. Sometimes Cura adds the "yellow" infill to support a layer above so that it doesn't fall as it is printed. You can only disable this with the new feature in the expert "magic" section that prints "only shell". I have not played with this new feature yet. You need Cura 14.06. So try both of those 2 suggestions please and look at it in layer view.

Which one - bed or nozzle? If it's the bed it specifically says "bed" but if it's the nozzle I think it doesn't mention nozzle or head or anything. You should get a new temp sensor. Are you in the USA Eldrick? If so I can get you one quickly. Otherwise you need to open a ticket. Please update your location in your profile to indicate what country you are in. I'm thinking you have bad wiring somewhere - could be at the head or it could be underneath the printer (I recommend removing the larger cover on the bottom - only 2 screws - very easy to do - and check the wiring for the temp sensors to see if they are loose or fell out. If it's at the head you might want to just get a new one. If instead it's the bed sensor that is the problem you likely don't need a new one - just need to check the wiring at each end and likely need to reheat the solder at the 4 conductor connector on the heated bed.

Probably, yes. Or you could be carbonizing the PLA. I don't know much about XT but 260 is a bit hot for most PLAs and if you leave it for a few minutes at that temp without printing (or if you print slowly) it can also turn black. But more likely it's the feeder grinding up. I strongly recomend you keep your PLA on the floor and not on the back of the printer so there is less grinding. That has worked very well for me.

For the nespresso shell, try setting infill to 100% and then check layer view to see if it adds a little bit more in the curves - I'm not sure if it will.

If you blow through a straw the air coming out the far end will go very straight at first and you get a kind of rocket propulsion like effect and you can feel the wind 5 feet away. If you suck through a straw there is no directionality at the far end of the straw - air come in equall from all directions. All 360 degrees. Even back along the straw! So trying to get the fan to suck cooler air might not help as much as you think. Anyway the hot end can easily be at 260C (for printing nylon). Although the teflon can handle 260C it is more likely to deform under pressure when at temperatures at 250C or higher. The heated bed is typically 50-75C for PLA and 90-110C for ABS. Even 110C is so much cooler than 260C that I don't think it matters too much if you use 110C air versus 20C air as long as you have good air movement. I could be wrong. I think that the angled thing that aims the air at the teflon shouldn't hurt much and I agree, the left side of the head is the hotter side. But it's possible you are interfering a bit with the airflow and reducing the effectiveness of the 3rd fan but I doubt it - I bet its fine. Many people print without realizing their 3rd fan never worked and discover it when they complain that the PLA is getting soft high up in the print head and getting stuck up there (especially with lots of retractions). So maybe that deflector will help keep you from getting jams higher up in the bowden. It's never been a problem for me on UM Original nor UM2.

Lots of materials. It can print Nylon - I've printed "PA6" Nylon. Other's have tried taulman brand nylons (google taulman filament). It can print "flexible pla" and "ninjaflex". The UM2 can also print PLA with various powders mixed in including a "stone like" filament, wood filaments (2 different manufacturers) and bronze powder. But it must be 2.85mm. The flexible filaments are the most difficult and my require a drop of oil every 20 meters of filament to allow it to flow through the bowden and also may need to be printed very slowly (10-20mm/sec) for the same reason that it's hard to "push on a string".

I have bought "3mm" filament from printbl. It's actually 2.85mm.

You mean it's bent? It's not straight.

Some people think .06 is great so you are welcome to try it. I think .2mm layers looks great although the robot in the photo was .1mm. It's kind of silly to go super high resolution on the Z axis when your X and Y axis are limited by the nozzle diameter of .4mm (radius of .2mm). So XY your resolution is sort of blurred to the finest point being .2mm curvature.

What?? Strange. That doesn't sound right. I can think of two causes: 1) Are you printing through USB? If so that would explain both your problems (grinding and strange behavior). USB is not officially supported because you get so many errors that occasionally the checksum matches and it does a wild move. 2) Click on the "plugin" tab in Cura and make sure you don't have the "pause at Z" plugin enabled. No ideas about the glossy versus matt. Usually temperature affects that. Maybe your fan doesn't come on until one inch up?

What temp? Try 210C. If you were already on 210C, try 200C. Double check that the fans are actually working. If you want even better quality slow it to 20mm/sec but at 30mm/sec you should be able to do better than what I see in pictures. .1mm or .2mm per layer should not show much difference. I don't recommend .06mm layers - that might be your entire problem - but more likely it's temperature issue. Also bed should be at 50C to 60C. No hotter than 60C. No cooler than 40C or it might not stick. Also .8mm shell is probably best. But really most of your issues are probably temp and possibly layers too thin to do overhangs (not sure). Again - are you sure those fans are working? Often they get unplugged in shipping. It shouldn't be too hard to get quality like this:

Consider 200C, .2mm layer and 20mm/sec. It will print same speed as .1X40mm but come out much nicer. If it's still sloppy at 210C keep going lower. Every filament is different. Some can print fine at 180C and cooler. Some need 220C minimum.

Braddock, what country do you live in? The answer to this question affects how quickly and through what method you can get spare parts. Please also update your profile location showing your country.

Also when you export from Zbrush - aren't there options to control the polygon count? I've never used it but can it maybe ask you the resolution (and set it to .1mm maybe?)? Or something like that? I suspect meshmixer will do a cleaner job (better job) of reducing polygon count than zbrush though. meshmixer is pretty smart about it.

Also I find that if slicing crashes at .1mm layer, sometimes it can do fine at .2mm layer slicing.

What's high? 1000 polygons? That's high for me, lol. I assume you have millions. People who use CAD to make mechanical parts tend to have dozens of polygons. Sometimes hundreds even. People like you who use zbrush tend to have millions. I have taken models that had millions of polygons and reduced it to 10,000 (a factor of 100X!) and they looked just as good. Plus the models loaded much more quickly into, well, everything. And sliced faster. I used this free/simple technique - this article comes complete with pictures of the changes when you lower polygon count: http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html

1) 260C is too hot for PLA. At that temperature you can cook it into a gunk that will clog the nozzle. 240C is a safe maximum temperature. 2) I don't understand exactly problem #1 above. Maybe print slower? Try this test at 230C (IT MUST BE 230C OR THE TEST IS USELESS): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ 3) Your first layer looks a little thin. I think maybe you need to raise the distance between nozzle and print bed by about .05mm. Also I recommend .3mm first layer to make it easier to get the first layer perfect and will help you get rid of lines you arrowed. 4) To get rid of those lines you could try 4 things: re-level (my #3 above), Increase *travel* speed to 200mm/sec. Uncheck "combing". Print only one part at a time (instead of 4). Try "brim" option instead of "skirt".

If the model is manifold (no holes in skin, no missing polygons, no polygons *inside* the model) and it has no unconnected polygons closer than .1mm apart and if all the normals are facing outward (STL files have polygons and each one has a normal to indicate which way is out and which way is in) then you don't want any of the "fix horrible" checkboxes checked. Usually "type a" doesn't harm a manifold model but sometimes it fills in things that are meant to be hollow.

I was going to say the same thing.

I see values on all components. Did you look here? (click "raw" to download the pdf): https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

These are called overhangs and are tricky to print although you should be able to do a lot better. I'm not sure why they look so bad. You need to print cooler though - fans must be 100% and test that both are working full speed. Also this is a small part so make sure "minimum layer time" is as least 5 if not 7 seconds. Also I would print this slow and cool (maybe 210C and 30mm/sec or maybe even slower). Also keep the heated bed somewhat cool - 60C would be good. Now the next thing - why not print it in the orientation shown in the first picture? I can't see too well what's underneath so maybe you chose the best orientation. Not sure. Overhangs will always look worse than vertical edges but you should be able to get to 45 degrees overhang without much loss of quality at all. I think that because the part is so small you aren't giving it time to cool enough.

I guess it's possible it's one of the 4 larger rods but very unlikely as they are much stronger. The 2 smaller diameter rods pop out of the sliding blocks and then you can just slide them out of the print head. For the long rods: The 4 belts go around aluminum pulleys. Each pulley has a single set-screw (aka grub screw) that holds the pulley to the rod. Loosen those with a 2mm hex wrench and everything slides apart. Keep track of the order of pieces. There is an assembly manual for the UM2 so you can sort of read it backwards? ultimaker2 assembly manual - click "raw" to download the pdf: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf