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I assume this manual will tell you how to assemble it. I really didn't pay attention to the wires other than to make sure the fan wires didn't get pinched. The manual might not be helpful - I haven't looked at much of it yet: ultimaker2 assembly manual - click "raw" to download the pdf: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

This sucks. The worst thing about it is it may take a while to get a replacement - if it was me I would PM sander and send him to this thread and give him your ticket number - this is urgent because your printer is useless until you get a new nozzle - the sensor you might be able to order or build but the nozzle is cusom. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/423-sandervg/

Some day you will damage your bowden with the 4 blades in the "bowden holder" and it won't stay up any more. Only when that happens should you cut off a few mm of the bowden. But the bowden holder will still "stick up".

First layer looks good, second layer has unexpected gaps. Is your infill set to 70% or something? Did you change flow to less than 100%? Some people have overextrusion on first layer and fix it by lowering flow to 90% instead of lowering the bed by 10% of the first layer thickness. This looks like typical underextrusion on a UM Original, but underextrusion on the UM2 tends to have sudden slip backs of the feeder such that you have obvious spots where there is zero extrusion. This more looks like something on purpose such as the first two things I mentioned.

Double check that the filament doesn't have a notch in it where the feeder ground it up. Other than that it could indeed be the nozzle. Here is the easiest method to unclog the UM2 known as the "atomic" method: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691

The people who complained the most about the slice button actually had an issue that made the UI lock up (I think mostly on MACs). Leaving out the button was good because it highlighted bugs that would have been missed if Daid added the button and Daid fixed them relatively quickly.

Don't know. Some ideas: 1) Is the fan blowing on the nozzle tip? That can cause underextrusion if it blows directly. I mean could this have changed since a year ago? You didn't show that in your photographs. 2) Maybe the sensor probe is bad - calibrate temperature by heating to 95C and 105C and it should boil at 105C and not at 95C. 3) Do you print ABS sometimes? Switching back and forth can cause clogs. 4) Maybe there is some wood from the feeder getting onto the filament and getting carried through the bowden and causing clogs although likely this would be more serious. I recommend this test to help decide if the feeder is the problem: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4222-pulling-force-of-um-extruder/?p=34887

I still have the original "origami" shroud. It was damaged so I repaired it with kapton tape and it works great. Kapton tape can touch the head and not melt.

It's normal that it's always on. It's not normal that it is noisy. Mine is too quiet to hear more than about a meter away. Maybe buy another one? Or take off the label and add a drop of oil? Or maybe a blade is damaged and rubbing?

Did you try twisting a bit instead of pulling? Grip at the point just before it dissappears with needle nose pliers. Be gentle. Mine both slipped out very easily - the weight of the nozzle was almost enough to pull out.

Yes. Too close. No room for all the plastic to come out so it squirts out suddenly when it can.

Hopefully Daid will answer the question. But FYI... Recently Daid took out most of the features from the print window and now people can create their own "plug in" print windows. There are already a few you can download and try out. I have an ulticontroller so I haven't played with this yet. I'm not sure where you get these plugin guis.

UM2 FEEDER DESIGNS Ian's design is secret for now. Geek's design for UM2 feeder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2 Robert's design is here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=45758 Post #402. Read Robert's post #409 below that one for more details on assembly and such. Ultimaker's design is in these three posts post #500: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=50304 Post #279: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42330 post #268 http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42162 I think this second post is more useful. Anyway, contact Bas for a free metal grommet. Takei Naodar's design won't fit on the back of the UM2 so you need to also print his very clever spool holder: https://www.youmagine.com/users/takei-naodar

It might be the atomic method doesn't work through the bowden. I don't know if I've tried it on the UM1 through the bowden yet.

You did it either too cool or too hot. You should get a tip the shape of your nozzle tip. It helps to remove anything below the tip also. I think you did it slightly too hot. Try 3C cooler or let it cool for 5 more seconds at 90C. Or maybe it was the right temp you just need to let the upper parts cool for a few more seconds.

Hi Peter. Something wrong with translation. For example "pretsiznos" didn't translate. Can you write this again please with complete sentences. Check spelling carefully before you translate with google. Google translate doesn't work well on partial phrases like this.

Usually this happens when a part gets loose on the print bed and is dragged around and filament just squirts out everywhere including gradually up into the print head. I'm not sure what you mean by wires are burnt. The Heater cable going into the nozzle has a black area but I think that is burnt PLA and it should be fine. I'm not sure where there is any plastic left. You didn't show any photos of PLA where it shouldn't be as far as I can tell. Do you know if the nozzle is clogged at this point? You might want to use the atomic method to clean out the end of the nozzle: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 Or you can continue dissassembly (remove the long skinny screw before removing the heater and temp sensor cables as that holds them in) and burn the rest out over a gas flame but don't heat it so much that you melt the metal used for the head (bronze?).

Very strange! Probably 4X taller? Check the jumpers for the Z driver. You can see them in the assembly instructions picture. If the jumper is touching only one pin then it is equivalent to being removed as it isn't conducting: Click the above photo to zoom. Then you can zoom in more by right clicking and do "show image". Then you can zoom in more by clicking it a third time. The circled jumper in the above photo should be the only Z jumper not installed (or installed only touching one pin). Also I think to the right it might tell you the setting based on which jumpers are installed.

You can set steps/mm using gcodes and save it permanently also. Post again if you ever need to but the quick answer is to install repetier host, command say 100mm of travel and see what actual distance is (with filament only half way down the tube or command it to unextrude. Then find the ratio of error and correct steps/mm by that amount. RH will tell you the current steps/mm when it connects to the printer through usb and you can adjust this and save it (I think M500 might be the save command). As far as loctite - I hope someone else answers. I know there are several types (colors) - some are meant for permanent and some will be "breakable".

On the pulley? really? That's really good to know for future as someone asks every week almost.

Very reasonable theory. For 2.85mm standard hard PLA it's usually fine. Some people have taken apart their feeder and either cut a loop off their spring or filed down the white swing arm a little to reduce the tension. I've been fine so far - I haven't even taken my feeder apart yet. Although I'd like to print IRobertI's design some day. It allows for easier filament change.

Unless you have a cat.

Putting the filament on the floor will eliminate or stave off many problems. That is by far the most important thing you can do: Also keeping the nozzle cooler will help the white teflon piece not deform. At 240 and 250C it is more likely to compress and deform and cause problems. That is the second most important thing you can do. I know this doesn't sound like "maintenance" - more like "babying the printer", but it will help you longer. Also don't print where dust can get on the filament (and end up in the nozzle) - store unused filament in sealed ziploc bags to keep dust off and also to keep humidity out. Possibly cover the whole thing in plastic whenever someone vacuums.

Everyone thinks their feature is important but sometimes adding one feature pisses someone else off. Think about if everyone wants this feature or if it might possibly just add another thing that new people won't understand or appreciate. Anyway here is the best place to post a request as it will kind of sit there where UM employees see it on a regular basis: https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues

The "ghosting" is usually called Ringing. You can fix it by lowering acceleration (but leave the speed the same). It shouldn't slow down your print much. Here are some experiments with photos where someone was able to get rid of it: Post #8 here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/?p=18006