Dim3nsioneer

The half blowing not at the hotend is not useless. It cools the heatsink.

I take this as a 13mm^3/s... :-P Very nice machine! Details: Ultimaker PLA black, 230°C, new feeder version with metal ring, feeder strength indicator on top, no filament guide (directly from the spool into the feeder).

What about a backup? :?: Even better than replacing an old version would indeed be importing the settings of a previous version. However, this gives some new problems if you have something like six Cura versions installed as I do (there is actually no serious reason for this; you can call me paranoid...)

With the new Cura GUI settings will be customizible to different degrees, i.e. you can select a quick setting for one option and an expert setting for another if I got Daid right when he was writing about 'settings being on the chop board'. But this rather applies to settings than to buttons. Sometimes I also would like to have autoslicing off, e.g. when I loaded a complex object, rotated and scaled it and play around with settings and plugins. On the other hand the day would come I would forget manual slicing after an important change in settings. If I may add a suggestion: Maybe it's possible to suppress autoslicing as long as a key such as shift key is pressed?

Do you use a different speed for the outer shell than for the rest? edit: forget it, this is not the cause... I was mislead by the 'good' print... sorry!

The request for switching off the autoslicing is not new; please see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2356-auto-slicing-on-off-please/&do=findComment&comment=16732 with Daid's answer. I prefer not to have a clear platform button as I tend to accidentally click buttons which destroy my work.

Can anybody please tell me WHICH connector from JST is used for the fans? I guess it's the same everywhere a fan is connected or pluged in, independent of the UM model, isn't it? But there are quite some different series from JST (PH, XH, ....)

@Aaron: I guess you did this on your UM1... Very nice result actually. Have you used: - Wipe&Prime tower? - Ooze shield? - any special gcode before or after extruder change? At which temperature did you print? No problem with oozing?

Hallo Stefan Willkommen im Ultimaker-Forum! Deine Drucke sind schon sehr gut. Aber wir Schweizer sind ja bekannt für Jammern auf hohem Niveau... Generell empfehle ich Dir, den Filament-Durchmesser mit einer Digital-Schiebelehre oder einem Mikrometer etwa zehn Mal zu messen und den kleinsten Wert im UM2 zu verwenden. Dann solltest Du auch 100% Fluss verwenden können (alles andere ist Gebastel). Bei ABS kann ich Dir keine Tipps geben, da mir dieses Material nicht in den Drucker kommt wegen Dämpfen und Nanopartikeln. Zu der Struktur auf der obersten Fläche: Das allerletzte Bild zeigt eine Überextrusion. Da die Fläche nicht so gross ist, vermute ich, dass Cura die Geschwindigkeit reduziert hat um die Minimal-Schichtdauer einzuhalten. Dadurch hast Du zu heiss für die effektive Geschwindigkeit gedruckt. Dabei wurde dann das überschüssige Material unter der Düse weggedrückt und wie bei einer Seitenmoräne eines Gletschers abgelagert. Wenn Du wissen willst, wie hoch die Effektiv-Geschwindigkeit der einzelnen Schichten sind, dann kann ich Dir http://gcode.ws empfehlen. Das zweitletzte Bild zeigt eine andere Situation. Die Linien sind so komisch rund. Das deutet darauf hin, dass zu wenig Material für die Schichthöhe oder aber ein zu grosser Schritt in z-Richtung für die verwendete Materialmenge benutzt wurde. Ich empfehle Dir zu prüfen, ob Dein UM2 bzw. der Drucktisch davon Spiel in z-Richtung hat. Viel Spass beim 'Iisebähnle'... Stefan

It's really a shame but don't use the crappy forum search. It finds just nothing. Use Google search with 'site:umforum.ultimaker.com' at the end. Then you get everything...

I actually save the gcode first to the harddisk and then copy it to the sdcard. From time to time I perform a clean sweep of the sdcard.

See http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5948-stripped-head-on-set-screw/

Sometimes I get the impression it depends on the color of the left wing of a butterfly at the other end of the universe... :wacko: It can't be the filename (because it's chaos on my SD card) or the file date (sometimes new files show up on top, sometimes somewhere in the middle of other files).

XT von Colorfabb wäre ein Versuch wert. Das ist PETG. Genügend heiss gedruckt und mit dem richtigen Füllgrad könnte das funktionieren.

Official Marlin has this option since a few days ago, however the default Ultimaker version has it not yet. Either you download the Marlin source code from Github or you have to be patient until this feature finds its way into the default Ultimaker firmware. Afaik there is no way to switch the motor off directly with Cura. Maybe with a special gcode command in the start.gcode.

This must be an old text in that e-mail. The Ultimaker website says 2-4 weeks leadtime for the UM Original. I hope, you get your printer soon. However, it seems indeed that the lead time of the UM2 is significantly shorter at the moment than the stated 8-10 weeks.

It's the next major step in the Cura development; a completely new GUI.

In such cases, where it is hard to see a difference in the Cura layer view, I use the http://gcode.ws. Other people also recommend http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-host/ for this purpose.

It seems you use a shell thickness of 1.6mm or similar. However, there is space for only three of the four lines. Maybe you try it with 1.2mm shell thickness. Before you print it, you could check it with layer view of Cura (which is always a good idea... ;-) ).

As Cura plugins are post-processors and affect the written gcode they should speak the same language as the gcode IMHO. However, you're right pointing out that the situation of having different numberings in the GUI and in the gcode is not ideal. Maybe Daid could take equal numbering into consideration for Cura pink unicorn?

The RetractWhileCombing plugin uses the same layer numbering as it is used in the gcode (or it uses the layer height which is non-ambiguous). It's true it's not the same layer numbering as in the Cura GUI but that's rather an issue of the GUI and not something which is screwed up in the plugin.

I recommend the RetractWhileCombing plugin for people who want to get rid of moving lines on the first layer. It's your solution no. 1.

Hi Shminh Welcome to the forum! Which Ultimaker model do you wait for?

As the M600 command seems to be subject to ongoing discussions on Github and as I don't want to implement an Ultimaker-only solution I move this rework down on my priority list (sorry, but chances that the time would be wasted are very high).

Thanks for the links. I have to read thoroughly through that discussion before making the next step. What I don't want to do is a solution which is good for the Utlimaker only. And the Ultimaker fork of Marlin is for configuration purpose only I learned recently from Daid. In general I think the second retract is not necessary for just a pause. It has the purpose to prepare the filament change. And it can quite easily be skiped. The same goes for the beeping... Daid implemented a M601 for the pause feature of the UM2. Major parts of the M601 are identical with the already existing M600. However, there are a few UM2-specialities in the M601. This is ok as Ultimaker2Marlin is an independent repository. But it's a no-go for the RepRap-wide repository of standard Marlin.