Dim3nsioneer

Congrats, you pointed me to a bug. Reset on an UM2 is not properly done if the setting is visible within the gcode (i.e. a machine setting). However, this should exactly lead to not changing any behavior which would lead to Cura's default which is an M107 at the start of the layer. I guess I will have to look at this in a quiet minute... Would be nice if you could submit an issue on Github.

Yes, it should reset. Which firmware do you have on your UM2?

That's why everybody should have two Ultimakers...

1. At least in the part of Europe I live we also read first from left to right and then from top to bottom... 2. Assemble!?! Z screw and motor is one unit.... 3. I actually see not much need to remove the lower caps anyway unless the rods are completely stuck...

If two printers clog at the same place it's maybe a too dirty ambient.

For me it looks as if it comes out too cold. Be aware that the stainless steel nozzle might not have reached its full temperature when the Pt100 in the heater block says so. You might try preheating the nozzle and the bed and wait for a minute before you start the print.

Well, that's a pity. Visiting NZ is definitively on my bucket list. It's just d### far away from here... But the distance from Europe is maybe the reason why wide landscapes there stayed more or less untouched...

What I meant is to see who posted last. The OP being the last poster was just an example (it's usually very interesting to see what the OP thinks about suggestions and thoughts from other users). @iroberti: I use this sorting for quite a while now. It's the best one can get at the moment but I still have to think when I last visited the forum in order to get the really new posts. And I hate to think, especially in the morning...

The forum update is quite ok. However, there are a few things I still miss: 1. List of new posts since my last visit 2. List of new posts since my last visit ... 10. List of new posts since my last visit (I know I'm a pain in the neck) Further: - I would like to see who made the last post in a topic. It is especially interesting to see when the OP makes a comment or an experienced user. btw: The way the user points are calculated is still a bit strange... the point page says one point per post...which is obviously not correct...just for the case the two developers are still available...

Versuchst Du über USB zu drucken? Das geht mit dem UM2 nicht; Du musst den GCode auf die SD-Karte speichern und vom Drucker aus anwählen. edit: Naja, es gibt schon einen Trick; der geht aber nur mit Cura bis 15.04.2... und ist vermutlich nicht das wonach Du suchst...

PLA becomes brittle in humid environment....

Für schmerzfreies Slicen ist im Moment die Version 15.04.2 zu empfehlen. Es handelt sich dabei um eine gebugfixte Version des alten Cura. Das neue Cura steckt noch in den Kinderschuhen, die obendrein an einigen Stellen noch kräftig drücken. Trotzdem solltest Du einen GCode am nach dem Slicen in 15.06.3 bekommen. Kannst Du noch etwas präzisieren, was Du mit 'kein GCode' meinst. Wird ein leeres File gespeichert?

standard firmware? Which version?

Have you checked btw if the extrusion rate is the same for the two xy positions? So we would finally know if it is a problem of the z axis or of the e axis. Personally I have seen this issue as well on my UM2 with Ultimaker black PLA. With other PLA brands even in black I do not or much less see it.

Best surface you can find for checking straightness of the rods are special stone tables for measuring machines. Second best surface is maybe a stone top of a kitchen counter. I tested my rods on such a stone. The test you made characterizes the whole system of the rod with the bearings. Which is not wrong at all as it is this system you use in your printer. If you have spare bearings you might test (by replacing a single bearing) which part of the system is actually the problem.

Hmmm... that idea sounds quite clever... you do that trick?

With a UM2? Yep. With Robert's feeder wide open...

You mean the Bowden tube? Actually, I don't do anything else; I always perform the cold pulls with the Bowden installed...

Well, a 35W heater produces 1.4 times as much heat as a 25W heater. Putting this heat into a limited amount of material lets temperature increase 1.4times faster (as long as nothing melts, otherwise part of the energy goes into latent heat). edit: Changes would have to be made on this line...

I also pull PLA at 70deg (Olsson block as well). I didn't check but a deformation of the teflon is very unlikely. It is quite new (less than 50 print hours) and is protected by an I2K isolator. The print quality is better than excellent. And cold pull of PLA still works fine.

Make sure you have the latest UM2 firmware. There is a safety shut-off built into Ultimaker2Marlin since last December iirc which switches the heater cartridge off if the temp sensor doesn't react in a proper way. However, the values there correspond to the standard 25W heater, maybe they have to be adjusted for a 35W heater.

Compatibility mode?

I have a different theory. You will replace the UMO by the UM3... then it's chronological again...

Hi guys For those of you who print with colored Colorfabb XT: At which temperature do you (cold) pull? I tried several temperatures and it always breaks at the cold-hot junction...

Having issues with parts from wherever is one thing, how a company deals with them is another. Companies of the size of Ultimaker should know what the letters FMEA mean.