Dim3nsioneer

You have to set all the line width options to the nozzle width if you want to have consistent results (well, you may forget about the support line width if you don't have support). If you e.g. leave the infill line width at 0.4mm and print with a 0.8mm nozzle you will maybe get a strange infill. Let's assume 100%: Cura would extrude only half of the material needed for a proper 0.8mm infill. But the spacing would be 0.4mm instead of 0.8mm. So the total amount will be the same. But your infill lines will most probably be a sequence of over and under extrusion; nothing reasonable. This doesn't take any non-linearities into account which will make it worse. Of course there is the trick with overextruding e.g. on the first layer to have a water tight layer.

Dream on... there will be anarchy without you! 8) Have a nice time. Where are you going to?

Today, as temperature outside is 37°C I stepped down into the basement where my UM2 is waiting in a 21°C cool room for its Olsson block for quite a while. Disassembling the old Ultimaker heater block was not really funny. I hardly could get the stainless steel coupler away from the heater block. Finally with heating up, WD40 and a bit of force I got it away (fortunately I ordered a spare at UM). This is what my teflon isolator and the heater block looked after over 1200 hours of printing The crazy thing is that I still got excellent prints with this coupler! The temperature sensor slipped easily out of the old heater block and it has quite some space inside the Olsson block. That's why I put some copper grease (should be stable up to 300°C) around heater cartridge and temperature sensor. After assembling I realised that the original duct touches the Olsson block on the left. As an quick solution I put some ceramic tape in between which seems to do the job: no temp sensor error occured. And this is what it looks at the moment (E3D nozzle mounted, new stainless steel coupler, new teflon with I2K isolator):

The line width feature changes the distance between the lines and the extruded amount of filament; unless someone implemented a bug which was not yet found it should work as the nozzle size in legacy Cura. edit: yes, you should put 0.6 there...and also to the other line width settings such as infill line width...

I don't know for sure but afaik legacy Cura uses the nozzle size for calculating the line width with the exception of the first layer for which it could be specified in later versions separately. The fact that quite some users asked about the nozzle size shows: - that the Olsson Block is a great success... - that people look for what they are used to (reminds me of Ford's customers who wanted faster horses and got the automobile) - that the new concept should be mentioned by UM in a manual or blog

Almost the same here (35-38°C). But my UMs are fortunately in a cool room in the basement (20°C)...

@jens, @mastory: Why so complicated? Just change the different line widths under 'Quality'. You don't see those options? Enable them in the machine preferences (Menu Settings -> Preferences -> Machine -> Quality and so on...). It's simple.

@gearsawe: I think you are not writing a plugin for the new Cura but changing its code (nothing wrong with that but I think it's not the way intended by UM). @nallath has put a very quick description of the new plugin system onto Github somewhere under Ultimaker/Uranium. Btw: json-files should be nested for variations of the same printer. In order to find out how it is done you best open the UMO or UM2 json file and see how it is connected with the more fundamental fdmprinter.json.

Please see https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5537-wifi-sd-card-in-ultimaker-2

Some of you may have realised that another feature is not yet implemented into the new Cura; it's what it was called 'plugins' in legacy Cura. It is now referred to as 'postprocessing scripts' and is also planned for a future version. It will be a Cura plugin (here the term 'plugin' refers to its new meaning in the Uranium framework) which allows also users with less profound python knowledge to write postprocessing scripts. @thedeugd: Could you please add this to the blog as a future feature? Thanks.

C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.06.01\resources\settings Open the 'ultimaker2.json' file (if you have a UM2..) in a text editor and find the line with the nozzle size. Fine if you want to test it once, but this version is basically useless for "olsson block" users. As far as I know you should be able to set a different nozzle size by changing the values in the different 'line width' boxes under 'Quality'...

oh wow ok so maybe I hold off for a while With very rare exceptions I only printed with PLA.

Increase retract distance and retract speed on the UM2. Make sure the filament is not broken inside the Bowden tube.

My UM2 has over 1200 print hours with the first Teflon and prints still look ok. People usually get underextrusion issues when the Teflon is done.

Well, for sure get yourself the Olsson Block (with tools if you don't have them). One or two Teflon isolators if you print a lot of XT or other PET derivatives. Only one Teflon if you take the I2K ring as it prolonges the Teflon lifetime. If you print ABS only you should consider the IPM Coupler. For changing the heater block I would have a temp sensor in spare. A spare Bowden tube is also something nice to have as after a few months of intense printing and exchanging filament there are scratches on the inside which decrease the cross section of the tube and as a consequence increase the resistance of the filament inside the tube. If you want to print very small detailed parts, get yourself a small nozzle (0.25mm); for large parts which have to printed fast a big nozzle (0.8-1mm). If you often print abrasive filaments such as XT-CF20, or whatever-fil from Colorfabb then get yourself a stainless steel nozzle. Where are you located? 3dsolex has a few partners for certain countries, e.g. USA/Canada or Sweden. But it's written on their website.

If you do serious business which requires minimum downtime the best thing you can do is to have more than one printer. For a more relaxed approach I recommend you have the parts on spare which are delivered with the UM2 nowadays - teflon isolator and nozzle IIRC. You get them rather expensive at the Ultimaker webshop, probably even more expensive at your local reseller or less expensive together with the famous Olsson block at 3dsolex.com.

@nallath: Will there be any update during the contest? Are there any contributions yet?

Guys, don't worry about the beta. The final release is very close I think. I wouldn't be surprised to see it next week but this does not mean it will be next week. The new Cura is officially announced for July. So there are 31 possible dates minus the weekends.

See page 28 (upper right corner) in this document. It's for a heated bed upgrade for the UMO. As the UM2 has the same bed it works there as well...

Gibt es schon Druckergebnisse?

Na, dann sind wir doch mal gespannt...

Aus meinen jüngeren Beobachtungen sehe ich nur ein System, das sicher funktioniert: zwei Köpfe mit je einem Hotend, so dass nichts auf den Print sabbert.

Du scheinst Unterextrusionsprobleme zu haben. Das hat ja bekanntlich viele mögliche Ursachen. Bei einem Drucker, der länger schon in Betrieb ist, würde ich auf jeden Fall mal den Bowden Schlauch reinigen; ich mache das jeweils mit einem langen Pfeifenreinigerdraht. So ein Stück Pfeifenreinigerdraht um das Filament vor Eingang in den Feeder gewickelt ist übrigens auch der perfekte Schutz vor Verunreinigungen im Bowden-Schlauch. Die Düse wird sich tatsächlich mit der Zeit abnützen, speziell dann, wenn Du abrasives Filament druckst, also z.B. so die Spezialitäten von Colorfabb (...fill). Dann hilft nur Austauschen des ganzen Heizkörpers inkl. Düse. Ausser natürlich, Du hast den Olsson-Block, dann musst Du nur die Düse selbst austauschen. Den Olsson-Block bekommst Du übrigens wie auch bezahlbare PTFE-Isolatoren bei 3dsolex.com.

Da bin ich mir jetzt nicht sicher, ob und wieviel Filament zurückgezogen wird beim Abbruch eines Drucks (ich breche selten ab und wenn, dann konzentriere ich mich auf andere Dinge als den Retract... ). Wahrscheinlich wird kaum soviel zurückgezogen wie beim normalen Ende eines Drucks (was meiner Meinung nach zuviel ist; deshalb habe ich das in der Firmware reduziert; die Tatsache, dass mein Original-Teflon-Isolator nach über 1000h Druck noch lebt, könnte ein Hinweis sein, dass das nicht so falsch war). Es ist also nicht ausgeschlossen, dass da etwas zuviel Material am Anfang beim Primen hineingeschoben wird. Allerdings müsste das bei 220°C doch einigermassen gut durchgestossen werden können. Hast Du mal probiert, ob es bei etwas tieferer Temperatur tatsächlich schlimmer wird? Das PLA, das ich habe, zeigt sich z.B. recht unwillig bei 220°C, darüber und darunter ist es super.

Hast Du denn damit Probleme? Dann würde ich eher mal den thermischen Kontakt zwischen Heizer, Heizblock und Sensor überprüfen und ev. mit Kupferpaste verbessern. Und/oder das PIDautotune Verfahren durchführen.