Dim3nsioneer

Hallo, Wie soll ich das verstehen? Meinst du wenn der Druck fertig ist und der Druckkopf in die ecke fährt das dort kein Material mehr raus tropft im vergleich mit und ohne düsenhub? Gruß Das nicht benutzte Hotend 'tropft' zwar mit Wasserkühlung sicher nicht mehr nach, aber unten an der Spitze sind ja trotz retracting immer noch kleine Spuren von geschmolzenen Filament. Diese werden dann auf dem anderen Material / auf der anderen Farbe abgestreift wenn die beiden Hotend auf gleicher Höhe sind. Wenn nun das nicht benutzte Hotend höher ist, findet diese Abstreifen ja nicht mehr statt. Deswegen hast Du den Düsenhub ja wahrscheinlich konstruiert. Auf Deinen unbehandelten (nichtsdestotrotz sehr schönen) Prints waren ja doch noch ein paar solche Spuren zu sehen.

0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm I guess?

Da würde mich definitiv ein Quervergleich mit der Version ohne Düsenhub interessieren. Ich erwarte, dass die letzten kleinen Stückchen Fremdfilament (das, was noch rauskommt bevor das Hotend ca. 150°C erreicht hat) dadurch verschwinden oder deutlich abnehmen. Ich bin gespannt!

Although I'm running a flagship store for 3dSolex products as @gr5 I have to say that I actually prefer not having direct ads here on the forum. As @SandervG pointed out it should be a source where people find (relatively*) independent information. *as far as it is possible on a manufacturer-run platform - so far, Ultimaker was very open about critical statements...

@neotko: The heated bed kit you saw: That's actually a 3dSolex product...

@al1-ch: Tu l'as reçu aujourd'hui? Mais c'etait envoyer le 27.10. par courrier A... c'est un peu trop long pour la post suisse...

These filaments might print well with the TF2K coupler (TFT+I2K) from 3dSolex which allows for extrusion temperatures up to 300°C... ;)The standard hotend is capped at 260°C afaik.

@neotko: My thoughts went the same way as @Labern's. I really would appreciate to have an automated cold pull as I always remove filament that way (the change filament routine of the UM2 is useless for me as it always produces a filament strain inside the Bowden tube which then blocks the filament flow. @frederiekpascal: This might also be a source of your problems by the way... and @neotko was right with his assumption: the shape of the filament end is interesting - especially at the spots where there are transitions from one part of the hotend to the other. At the right temperature you might e.g. see a tiny gap which could result in a clog. The other advice I always give concerning clogs and chronic underextrusion is to use something to clean the filament before it enters the feeder.

Salut Alain, bienvenue de la Suisse allemande... on voit que tu n'es pas un rookie... Quelle aperture de la buse tu vas utiliser normalement? Stefan

When you already have the camera in hands, please perform a cold pull and take a picture of the filament end.

Hmmm... long time to wait for next Halloween...

Have you ever tried to de-couple the feeder from the frame?

Knowing is not fun...guessing is...

IMHO it should be something which is not available for buying (no - I don't mean a copy of Cura... Ultimaker T-Shirts would be cool). This makes a competition much more fun. Or put the other way round: If you e.g. win a foto camera in a fotography contest, this is just a bit booring...you already proved that you are capable of making good pictures then...

and it will be waaaay cooler than free filament! 8) The only thing cooler than free filament is free printers whoo.. hold your horses! We may have been able to find soooomething in between. Closer to filament or closer to printer?

Everything is a secret until it's told in public...

You might try to use the official Marlin firmware... but you would have to configure it yourself... Or you use @amedee 's marlin builder

There goes the secrecy...

Preheat the hotend and turn the feeder wheel manually...

It's a bit like with cars, isn't it? You never know when a new model is going to be presented. Somehow models just get a lift-up. As you may consider the UMO+ to be a lift-up of the UMO, there might be a lift-up for the UM2 one day, e.g. something like an UM2+.

Do others also get ghost notifications sometimes? I just got a notification that there would be a new reply in a thread I follow but when I went there the last entry was from the 6th of October.

Yes, his posts are missed here too. As well as those of a very helpful English guy living in Memphis (starts with an I...) I guess it's the same reason - too much work. But maybe we will get special Christmas post from those two gentlemen? It's less than two months to wait...

Make sure you push the temp sensor all the way into the Olsson Block so it really sees the true temperature. I could also recommend you to use some copper grease between heater, sensor and Olsson Block.

Do you have the impression it is now louder on this drawer? Otherwise I find this a pretty nice fit.

It's maybe more than an alternative. Check out their new Teflon coupler (the TFT). It can withstand 255°C and together with the I2K coupler 300°C continously (nope, I did not make a mistake with the numbers; this is what 3dSolex claims...)