Dim3nsioneer

@patrick181: Any news yet?

@lencon: ?

Sorry, I didn't read your OP properly obviously... You don't happen to have a spare Arduino, do you? You may try to put the stepper driver into the second extruder socket and change the routing in pins.h in Marlin.

Here.

I changed the retract at the end of the print from 20mm to 12mm in Ultimaker2Marlin about a year ago. I've made only good experiences with that so far.

Hope dies, last. (Oops, I'm so sorry for that comma typo... )

Exchange the stepper driver. It's gone (I'm 99% sure as I also happened to kill some UM original drivers like that).

Heater, sensor or feeder? Heater and sensor: You have to edit pins.h in Marlin and recompile it. Feeder: exchange the stepper driver

Cura 15.06.x hasn't got that option. Legacy Cura: The info says it. Your object is too tall for print one at a time mode. The rods would hit the first object when printing the second.

Beta testing starts this Friday. Afaik the next stable release should be version 15.10. But the first 'stable' release of the new Cura was originally supposed to be version 15.07, then it became 15.06. So UM is always good for a surprise...

AFAIK there is no stable version of Cura coming out this week. There will be an open beta. Please let's not produce expectations which a beta cannot satisfy.

A little bit tidying up and documenting would be nice indeed. As another example, at least on Windows, Cura.log is not where the dialog box says to look for... But maybe with the next version all these issues are solved...

Just out of curiosity: What is the advantage of the 1.75mm conversion?

Please check this out before you continue with your box. 3D printers should not be run in a closed box without surveillance IMHO. Just adding a fan is a bad idea as it would supply oxygen to a fire inside the box. A fire is likely to happen due to the electronics overheating.

@Schweppes: Sorry to be a bit off-topic, but do I get this right? You have a CLOSED box around your Ultimaker made out of wood and other flammable materials, you don't know how warm it gets exactly on the inside and you let it run unattended? Then you're at least very, very brave IMHO... but maybe I got it completely wrong...

Very good question. I actually thought of this line . But it seems the feature is disabled. @daid: Shouldn't that and the next line be enabled?

The z motor is always on during print. Otherwise the z stage would drop. So there should be no difference wether the z motor moves or not. But if you are afraid of an overheated motor you may try to reduce its current in the UM2 menu. Just never go above the default setting by Ultimaker.

I guess you first screwed the stainless steel coupler onto the heater block and then inserted the teflon, didn't you? If you do it the other way round you make sure there is no gap between teflon and stainless steel coupler.

As @swordriff realised some original Ultimaker heaters are quite weak. Maybe you want to replace it with a 35W heater? Just make sure you adjust the firmware safety accordingly.

50°C scheint mir sehr tief für einen cold pull. Aber grundsätzlich das richtige Vorgehen. Wichtig beim Hochheizen (ich denke, 240°C reicht auch) ist, dass manuell Filament vorne zur Düse hinausgedrückt werden kann. Gelingt dies nicht, ist etwas in der Düse, das sie verstopft. In diesem Fall mit einem feinen Draht oder einer Akupunkturnadel von unten in die Düse stechen bis flüssiger Plastik (Achtung Verbrennungsgefahr!) unten rauskommt.

What about testing it in a freezer?

Thxs.

No, they should not. This is the style of the direct print window. I guess you print from the SD card on your UM2 and don't use it via USB with RepRap gcode flavor, do you? Let's tag @gr5 as he knows much more of the Marlin insides than I do. He might be able to give us some information about if such an effect as I described above could be possible.

You may want to try this development version.

Hey @shurik... I swear I see this thread for the very first time! I see, you feel like that again (sorry, I couldn't resist... ): It happens I just had to play around with the one-at-a-time feature... to me the gcode looks fine. There is a G92 E0 (zeroing the extrusion), then a G10 (retraction), then only G0s without extrusion, then a G11 (priming) and then reasonable numbers for the E-coordinate. Maybe something bad happens in Marlin. If (for whatever reason) the G10 is executed before the G92 E0, one would exactly get the issue you seem to have. To be honest, I rarely print more than one object in one print job and if I do, I print it all at once to have reasonable layer times. That doesn't mean you're doing something bad but I just do not have experience with it...