Dim3nsioneer

I use 250mm/s on both UMO and UM2 and never had a problem with skipped steps.

Maybe I can find some people willing to test a new version of the TweakAtZ plugin here? The resonance in the dedicated thread was - well - modest... :sad: If you're interested, you may find it here: https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/raw/development/TweakAtZ_V3.99-RC2.py. Thanks!

Or one which is superior to everybody else? No names!

Well... taking into account that you're not living very close to the Netherlands... Shipping around half the World isn't cheap. I know what I'm talking about... I'm using filament from New Zealand... Shipping rates in Europe are quite fair I think. And North America now has its own production. Maybe there will also be a production plant at some time more east? Comparing the prices, the standard UM2 being 1895 euros and the go 1195 euros I think there is still some space for a heated bed...

I don't use the grease UM is providing with the UM2. I prefer a slightly thinner fluid (actually a high-quality oil for bicycle chains) and it runs very smoothly. Maybe you have to oil or grease it, clean it and oil/grease it again?

@Meduza: Hmmm... smaller PSU... good argument. That's maybe the part one can save most of the production cost compared to the standard UM2. However, I would gladly pay 100-200 euros more for a heated bed. It's really worth. And it would better fit to the 'family'. And it would be a clear plus to the Makerbot Mini. Well, it's now up to the customers to decide... But as ChrisR pointed out, it certainly has the cute-effect... :-P

It's actually 200*8/8 but you got it... depending on which Marlin version you're using you don't even have to recompile the firmware; you may just use a M92 command (and an M500 to save it). If you build a heated bed, you have to change the settings for the heated bed and the bed temperature sensor as well.

@UltiArjan: You're right with the lack of a heated bed on the UM2 GO. Definitively a serious design flaw IMHO .... :sad: for this price... edit: as the bed is anyway smaller than necessary we may see a heated bed kit for the UM2 GO soon...

That's intended. Because you should do what the customers want... :lol: Seriously: I felt some changes in the recent past on the software side; more topics are followed at the same time... it's almost a kind of 'awakening'... :mrgreen: You're doing not too bad...

In addition to pm_dude's remarks: You should immediately contact the 3DHubs administrator which is your local support for the order if there is really something missing.

You could have said about the same for these devices:

Now I see. It's about the style not about contents/models... (I guess the ambiguity of the term 'design' caused the confusion...). Thanks for the explanation.

What's the corresponding print speed? 50mm/s? With colored XT these are more or less the parameters I can print with 25mm/s. Can you say anything about interlayer adhesion?

There are some improved end cap designs on Youmagine or Thingiverse using screws to fix the rods. However, my personal recommendation ist this one: Fix them as they are fixed on the UM2, with spacers going around the rod and fixed by the (outermost) pulleys (for anybody interested: check the UM2 assembly https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf?raw=trueon pages 15-17). For having the right length of the spacers, you have to adjust everything and then measure the distances (which is actually a bit a pain). And then print them. I did that recently on an UMO with great success. The spacers are just cylinders with 8.6mm inner diameter and 0.8mm wall thickness (model sizes, already compensated for the usual rubberband effect of PLA). The spacers should be ROUND. So for printing them maybe you have to do some quick-fix of the rod at one end (chewing-gum, washers, whatever seems suitable for just one print... ) remark for UM2 users: replacing the standard spacers by printed ones with adjusted length helps to get rid of belts which wear out at the pulleys.

At least participants do not have to fear that the company takes their designs and patent it... I also had to read the text three times to get an impression what's really asked for. Though, I'm not yet sure I fully understood... :unsure:

This material was mentioned before here in the forum: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8237-pla-hitzebest%C3%A4ndiger-machen/&do=findComment&comment=81712 It seems that sometimes the language specific sub forums get the information first; it's quite similar on the French sub forum I think...

First half of the first question is the most interesting IMHO.

With the standard distance from the object (2mm or 3mm iirc) the shield blocks the air flow which leads to uglier overhangs. That's why an increased distance (I used 5mm) is better. edit: I even had one case with the standard distance where object and ooze shield were fused due to a misformed overhang; that object was actually a sphere.

Nice machines. :-P But: Are the names another example of names given at R&D and just picked up by marketing? (I now see why the R&D people started using ugly names like pluggable Unicorn... ). Is it just the picture or does the UM2 GO have an unnecessarily small print bed? Where has the famous build-space-to-machine-size-ratio gone?

Zu 1: Ich verwende soetwas wie 0.45mm, d.h. gerade genug, dass Cura eine ununterbrochene Wand macht (kann je nach Print etwas variieren: ausprobieren). Ziemlich gutes Beispiel: Robert's Feeder für den UM2. :-P Zu 2: 0.0mm ist meiner Meinung nach am besten; das lässt sich mit dem richtigen Gerät nahezu restlos wegschneiden (sofern 0.45mm verwendet wurde). Ziemlich gutes Beispiel: Robert's Feeder für den UM2.

Well, you found it... About the cooling down: Assuming you print quite slowly (and as cool as possible which is anyway an advantage for a dual extrusion print) then the gain of cooling down the nozzle is quite significant. I found idle times from about 45s to benefit from the cooling down. However, the real gain you get from cooling down when the unnecessary extruder swaps (on layers where only one material is needed) are eliminated. That's actually how I made these guys: And this is the 'Making-Of': Just ignore the shape of the prime&wipe tower; I was playing around with the CuraEngine at that time...

As I see there is a nice advanced display setup being developed (basically by TinkerGnome) right at the moment. I think it's clear that the advanced status display has to be an option and not the default. I see no problem why the community (as it is not safety-relevant) shouldn't be able to develop a design and a proper (tested!) implementation into the Ultimaker2Marlin code which Daid just could include from a pull request. So I don't see a serious reason why such an option should not be achievable within reasonable time independent of any UM todo and priority list. I'm pretty optimistic as the UM people has proved in the past that they care about the community and have included designs developed by the community into the UMO for instance. :-P

Me too.

For sure!

Ahhh... I see. The answer to the fifth generation of Makerbots, "UM2 Mini" and "UM2 Z18" ? Clever idea, especially for the American market...