Dim3nsioneer

The pulleys supplied with Ultimaker Original kits happened to be deformed sometimes. Actually the bore might be not concentric within the pulley. You may take some calipers and check this. If you combine two pulleys with about the same excentricity on one belt with the excentricity aligned the same way you should be able to minimize the effect.

Any chance you share the name of that Swiss company?

Are you sure it's not working? I tested it with my new development version where I didn't change anything for catching the layer numbers and it worked flawless with in 'print one a time' mode... Maybe it's with some special settings? An example would be nice... :-P

You never tried Diamond Age PLA in this case...

Wouldn't it make more sense to post this in the Dutch subforum?

Yes, please use the SwapAtHeight plugin. The TweakAtZ will never be able to do this as the change has to be made in Cura (sliced twice). That's exactly what the SwapAtHeight plugin does.

I once asked Colorfabb a similar question about XT and got the answer that the material itself might be food safe but looses this safety if printed on a printer with a hotend not entirely made from metal. Which is the case for Ultimakers.

You mean a M92 followed by a M500, don't you?

You can load print-related settings (profiles) from previous gcode generated by Cura. However, you cannot restore machine settings like this. But I guess you're doing regular backups for this purpose?

Assuming you're using Cura, this may help: https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/wiki/Select-Extruder-plugin (sorry, the documentation is still missing, but it should be self-explanatory)

I don't agree. The very first entry is about the printers. So most probably what people are looking for...

just updated.

Also with the minimum layer time taken into account the faster print should not need more time... maybe the same amount of time but not more (assuming the minimum layer time to be the same for both slices).

Producing anything weapon-like isn't helping 3d printing in any way... but that's my very personal opinion one can share or not...

I see you tweak the speed on the first few layers. This is also the range where Cura ramps up from bottom layer speed to nominal print speed over about five layers. So you have cumulative speed changes on the first layers which makes it so incredibly slow.

Also be aware that the spot size of many ir thermometers is larger than the nozzle itself and thus they will meaure a significant amount of background too which is most probably at something like room temperature.

UM2 oder UMO mit HBK? Ist das ein neu aufgetretenes Problem oder hast Du etwas an den Motorströmen (ev. versehentlich) verändert? Beim UM2 werden die im Menu verstellt.

Wenn auf dem Treiber von oben gesehen das 'EN' links oben und das 'GND' rechts unten ist, dann sollte es stimmen. Die 1.5.7-Original-Platine hat jeweils den Pin1 des Steckers nahe bei 'GND'. Und beim Extruder sitzt der Treiber anders rum als bei den Achsen.

Which TweakAtZ version are you using? Can you maybe provide a link (please don't post the whole file here, thanks) to the gcode? Alternatively please post a screenshot of the TweakAtZ settings.

Falls es ein Slicing-Fehler wäre, müsstest Du es in der Cura-Layerview sehen. Wahrscheinlicher ist ein loser Pulley; überprüfe doch mal, ob alle schön angezogen sind.

Am besten orientierst Du Dich am GND-Pin. Der sollte unbedingt wieder am gleichen Ort sein. Sonst ist der Treiber in geschätzten 0.001s futsch.

Does anyone know if the heated bed kit from Ultimaker can be driven safely with PID controlling the temperature instead of bang-bang mode (as for the UM2)?

You are all aware that the Ultimaker tube is made of PFA not PTFE? It has a bit a higher melting point... depending on what you print this might become important...

I think Chris is looking for a Bowden tube from PFA not Gold...

It's going to be 25mm/s. This is maybe something for Cura 20.01...