yellowshark

Hi @gr5 sorry but I think you are wrong about the G92 command; this physically moves the print bed but leaves Marlin (Repetier Host in my machine - maybe they are different?) thinking that it is in position. Lol I do realise I am in danger challenging such an august member but I have used G92 from my very first print 4 years ago and that has always been what I have understood and seen. I would add that on my printer the nozzle does not drop, it is the bed that moves and it is one continuous movement (at least to the eye) not two separate operations.

Hi, ok I think your solution is to use a Z-offset command. Printing uses absolute positioning and the z-offset command changes the physical position where the 0 absolute position is located. I think you are asking to bring your bed a bit closer to the nozzle when you say "a bit higher" ? You need to put your G92 z-offset command into your Start G-code. You will find your Start G-code in the printer settings. Go to Menu item Settings, then select Printer, then select Manage Printers. A list of printers will be displayed in a dialogue box, select your printer from the list displayed and then select the "Machine Settings" tab on the right-hand side. You will then get a dialogue box showing details of your printer and on the left hand side a box called Start g-code. This is where you enter your command. You need to do your positioning in relative mode, i.e. relative to the z axis position when this command is processed. So G91 ;set relative positioning G92 Z+0.050 ;set z-offset to move bed closer to nozzle by 50 microns G90 ;return to absolute positioning This assumes you want the move to be 50 microns Oh, if the dialogue box already has g-code in the Start gcode box then best if you post it here, before doing anything. Especially if it has G90,G91 or G92 codes IMPORTANT: This is very important. I think G92 Z0.050 moves the bed away from the nozzle and G92 Z+0.050 moves the bed towards the nozzle, but I am not certain. I have only used the G92 command withabsolute positioning and the Reprap paper on commands I am looking at, does not comment on negative vs. positive positioning when using relative positioned commands. Hopefully someone on the Forum can give a definitive answer. Anyway I will advise you to test this. I assume your gap between the bed and nozzle is 0.1mm and so I chose 0.050mm as being midway. After the G90 command enter the command for an emergency stop - M112 This works with most firmwares but not Sprinter; I do not know what firmware you have. Before running the g-code, slide a piece paper between the bed and the nozzle, you should feel some slight friction. Run the gcode and check again; you should feel an increased friction; if you feel nothing then the codes are the wrong away around - the bed has moved away from the nozzle. And finally change the 0.050 measurement to what you want.

It may not suit everyone but, except for maybe some very large pieces, I always set infill speed to my print speed, indeed apart from 1st layer all my speeds are the same, and I have never seen stringing on the infill.

Thanks, sorry but I started life with another slicer so I have never investigated standard settings. You should be able to run that at < 210, even <200. You might be surpassed at how much difference running the first layer at 20mm/s can make too. You are getting good advice on the UM hardware so stick with it

Well it is strange that the walls are fine but not the infill. To me that suggests you are printing the infill at a faster speed. You do not say what speed you are printing at (.i.e. 100% of what?) nor if your infill speed is different to your wall speed. The clicking suggests a feed problem. One thing is for sure and that is if you have to raise the temp. to 230 , at a reasonable speed, then you have something . On the other hand if you are printing at 100mm/s that is probably your problem, although I am not convinced that would cause clicking if the walls are at the same speed.

If I am reading you correctly then I think telling Cura to print a skirt is your answer. It is configurable so you can make it as long as you want to. The setting is located in the Build Plate Adhesion group.

Have you got the Cura setting "enable retraction " ticked? It is in theMaterial section. If it is ticked then it would be helpful to post your other retraction settings

0.4 nozzle 0.8 nozzle

@gr5 is right in everything he says but you may have misinterpreted. I do not have the latest Cura version and I think some of the wording has changed. First there is your nozzle size, then your line width and finally your wall width. In older Cura nozzle size was defined in printer settings and in addition within the main cura settings you had additionally line width and wall width. I think nozzle size and line width have now been combined, if you check the Help I suspect this will be confirmed. You need to set line width to 0.8 and you are recommended to set wall width to 1.6, i.e. the wall will be made up of two passes. Do not forget with a 0.8 nozzle you are extruding twice as much material as you would with a 0.4nozzle and therefor you will almost certainly need to adjust your normal settings - i.e. your print speed (slower) or your extruder temp (higher) or a combination. But I think @gr5 recommendation is wise. Your overall finish is poor so you need to improve your settings; I have always found a 0.8print to be good, indeed often better although the geometry will decide for you whether it is the best choice. If I can work out how to post a pic on the new forum I will post an example for you to aim for.

Wish I had stayed with W8.1, one does not have that level of control in W10 - worst thing I ever did

No idea really but wondering if perhaps Windows Update if you are on Windows? I have suffered a number of "breakages" from W10 update including inkject printer loss of connectivity even though the laptop and printer are both connected to the same wifi network.

That is a priming tower. There may be a setting in Cura to turn it off but when using two extruders you need a priming tower to enable smooth transition between the two filaments.

Looking at your latest pic more closely, you have more problems than was obvious from your first pic. It will be really helpful for us if you tell us your settings used for the latest print

Hmn well if 50mm/s is slow to you then your normal print speed is probably too fast to get a quality finish on most parts. I am not saying that is causing the problem you have highlighted, it is just a general printing observation initiated by your comment. I will admit to occasionally speeding up to 40mm/s

Hi in my experience it is not just the number of top layers that are important when printing over such thin infill but also the total thickness. E.g. if you are printing with a layer height of 0.10 then you need at least 10 layers. If you are using 0.20 or greater then 6 layers should be OK

OK for sure if you are measuring centre to centre then what I said is irrelevant. I would expect to print that distance within 100 micron accuracy, probably within 50 microns, so something is going wrong somewhere to be that far out. You mention an attached file but I cannot see one on my display. If you can make one available I would be happy to do a print and see what I get. I think @kmanstudios suggestion to print a few other simple models and check their dimensions is a good idea. Did you build the model yourselves, if so what software was used? What print speed are you using?

Holes will always print with a smaller diameter than specified, hence your increase in distance between them. I assume you want the diameters to be correct although you do not mention that measurement. The solution is to change your model so that the holes have a larger specified diameter - you may have to reset this several times to get the diameters printed correctly - then the distance between the two holes will be correct. 3D printers do not print circles they print straight lines which is why diameters are printed smaller.

Ok some points and some questions. 1. Your bed may be level but your nozzle to bed distance may not be optimum 2. Are you using a brim? If not you should use one, especially for something that looks as if it has quite a large surface area. Can you take a pic of your 1st layer with brim from above please so we can see how that is going down. We should be able to tell if your first layer is going down too close or too faraway. 3. If you are closing your nice new front glass door with PLA, do not, leave it open 4. Are you using an adhesive, if not then use one. I lightly spray 2 layers of extra strength hairspray on the glass bed (20 seconds or so between each layer). 5. How long have you had your printer? Does it always do this. If not what is different between how it is acting now and how it was acting before? 6. Once your bed temp reaches 60 do you wait 10 mins or so before starting the print so that all areas of the bed have reached 60? 7. You say your bed level is perfect, did you check it with a spirit level? Did you check another part of the printer to ensure it is showing the same level, not close - the same. 8. Can you tell us your settings please 1st layer print speed and extruder temp. Subsequent layer print speeds and extruder temp. If you different speeds for different parts of the payer pleas provide the detail 1st layer layer height and subsequent layers layer height. Number of bottom and top layers Fan details - when does it come om; when does it reach max speed; what is ma speed set to To clarify; is bed temp. 60 all the way through the print?

Whilst it is not PLA its temp. range is very similar. So if you had to print at 270, which is way to hot for PLA I would not be surprised if you some burnt green-tec in your nozzle. Another thing to check is your filament width. The top rated suppliers quote a diameter of 2.85mm +/- 0.05mm. Once you hit a width of 3.00mm you will get problems with friction/sticking in the Bowden tube. Really you need a digital calliper calibrated to display two decimals of a mm. Take your calliper along say two or three meters of your filament about to be fed into the Bowden tube and randomly and carefully check the diameter of your filament. If you consistently hit 2.85 +/- 0.05 the you should be OK but if you get any larger variations then check a longer length with a greater density of checks for better verification.

OK the simple part to the answer is that yes you can, use the G92 command in your start gcode, e.g. my start code has G92 Z209.055 ;set z-offset The more difficult part is what do YOU set the Z position to? In the above gcode statement we need to understand that 1. The Z height for my printer is 216.00mm, measured from the printer bed surface to the nozzle. If I had used G92 Z216 then the printer bed would rise right up to the nozzle but let us say 1mm short of the nozzle if that is the gap that I introduced during the levelling process. So why is it 209.055? 2. Firstly because my printer bed has a glass plate on top of it and when I do the levelling I remove the glass plate and so I have to take that into account, otherwise the glass plate will be driven into the nozzle. Let us say the glass plate is 7mm high then I would use G92 Z209 (i.e 216-7). 3. So where does the 0.055 come from? That is my fine tuning which puts the glass plate 0.055mm closer to the nozzle than set by the levelling process, to get the first layer really squashed down. 4. So if like you I needed an extra 0.2mm I would set my Z statement to Z 208.855 5. BUT you need to be careful, your printer and firmware may not work the same as my printer. There are two considerations. 6. Firstly if you have a plate. How does your hardware/firmware handle that? Hopefully your printer instructions will give you details on this. 7. Secondly which way around is your Z axis homing. Does Z0 move your bed to the bottom of the printer as mine does, or is it the other way around? On my printer, which uses Repetier Host, I can send a line of gcode direct to the printer which makes this stuff very easy to test. If you do not have this capability then I guess you will just need to start a print and then cancel it once the bed has been fully raised to start the printing. What you do not want to do is ram your bed or plate into the nozzle so take it carefully.

Do not forget that if you keep your normal print speed you will be extruding twice as much filament per second and you will probably need to increase your extruder temp.

Hi I would like to help but I am really confused here as to what is going on here. You say "I have an issue with the infill structure being added on the top internal layers, which are already finished". There is no such thing as an internal layer; a layer is a layer and comprises external wall, internal wall(s) and infill. Also I am not sure "which are already finished" is referring to. I am not sure why you would want to print a model with 0 top layers; is that intentional ?

Meshmixer, a standalone free package is good software for adding you own supports to a model. There is a link on the forum somewhere to a great paper by one of our members on how to uses supports in Meshmeixer. Several years old but a search on Meshmixer will probably show it up.

A few things here. If you design your own models, I am suspecting you do not as no software is mentioned, but if you do you then should be able within your design software to set it up so that the base orientation always matches what Cura sees as the base orientation. No, I am pretty certain there is no way in Cura to select a surface and say that is the base - you will need to use the rotate tool. In my experience that is normally rotating on one axis by 90 or 180degrees. I have had models (downloaded) that were twisted on two axes by something considerably less than 90 degrees and that have taken some time to get oriented correctly. Select your model and click on the move tool, top icon on the leftmost edge, the Z axis should be showing 0 i.e. the model is sitting on the bed. If not set to zero. If you are struggling to get the base of your model absolutely horizontal in Cura's 3D space then one way to fix that is to sink the model into Cura's bed so that the base of your model is completely sitting on the Cura bed or inserted into it - setting the z-axis to -0.5 may well be enough. Sure the part of your model inserted into the base will not be printed but that may not matter to you.

Many thanks for the update @ahoeben