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This generally happens if your print detaches from the bed during printing--it will attach itself to the nozzle, and start going up into the printhead because there's nowhere else for it to go. I recommend reaching out to your reseller.

Definitely normal during the first 20mm Z-height with active leveling on, since that's when it makes corrections. Getting the bed more level with a manual leveling should help reduce it.

Glad the upgrade went well for you! The extrusion upgrade kit is really excellent.

The sensor cable is a push fit, not soldered.

Tighten the back one down until it's about level with your front ones.

I haven't had any issues with active leveling with this version of the firmware. How is your bed height?

Is it possible there's bits of different color filament in your bowden tube? Sometimes a bit of ground filament can end up in there. If you're switching from a dark colored filament to a lighter one, you might want to inspect your bowden tube before you start your print and make sure no ground filament has been carried up. You can clean the bowden tube by removing both ends from the printer, putting a little tissue or paper towel in one end, and pushing it all the way through with a piece of filament. It should basically grab any debris.

The cable cover is held in place with push-fit tabs on the back, right, and bottom panels. Start with the bed all the way down so its out of the way, and pull at the top corner of the cover; may need to work it side to side a little to get it out.

You can print with 2 different size Print Cores as long as you're using the same layer height.

You should be able to just go ahead and re-flash the board with UM2X firmware. The UM2X, UM2, UMO+, and UM2+, and UM2X+ all use the same board, with different firmware.

Try tightening the thumbscrews on your bed until the heated bed plate is about level with the lip of the base plate at the front (pictured below). I generally find if it's not an issue with filament on the nozzle or debris on the bed, it's the height.

Make sure your bed springs are tightened so that the heated plate is about even with the top lip of the highest part of the base plate at the front. I've got some pictures here demonstrating what I mean. Edit: I've attached the photo now.

If you think it might be the bearing, you could try putting a drop of sewing machine oil on the frame bearing and see if it helps. Otherwise, I'd go ahead and tighten the short belt. Do you have a video of the noise?

Does it only error out when you try to start a print? Or will manually heating the nozzle also cause an error?

It may be worth unseating the printhead from the printer (tilt the sliding blocks to pop the printhead shafts out). Then just move the printhead shafts through the printhead by hand to see if the noise is coming from the bearings in the printhead, that way you're listening for it in isolation. Then move the sliding blocks by hand (with the printhead still out of the printer) so you can listen to the belts in isolation. This should let you confirm whether the issue is the belts or bearings. How many print hours are on the machine?

Have you recently lubricated the printhead shafts and perimeter rods on your printer? How long have you been printing on the machine? Are the screws that hold your fan bracket screwed in tight? Do your long and short belts both look tight? Do you hear the noise when moving the printhead by hand, or only when printing?

I miss the sub-boards from the old lay out. In particular I usually spent time at the hardware board, and UM3 boards, but the new forum seems to have merged quite a few different boards into a singular set.

If you're looking for a good support material for ABS, the new breakaway support material works great with it. https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/breakaway

Are you running the most recent firmware? There was a patch a while back. If you're already running the most recent firmware, in most cases, reseating the cable once does the trick. In a very small number of cases, a new cable may be needed (contact your reseller if the issue persists after reseating the cable).

I think that it is unlikely that the button is the problem as I said in my original post the printer makes an audible tone when the button is pushed, which indicates that the controller card is acknowledging the button press and as I also said turning the power on an off does not clear the problem. The printer was left to print a job over the weekend which it completed sucessfully. When we checked the printer on Monday morning we saw the problem. Since posting the original message I have spoken to our firmware engineers and they think that it is probably a firmware bug, possibly a buffer over run, which has happen because the printer was left for a long period without the button being pushed to acknowledge the message on the screen. We are sill waiting for our reseller to get back to us, but if we have not heard from him shortly we are going to access the controller card directly and see if we can resolve the issue, as a first step we are going to plug a monitor into the HDMI port and see what happens when the printer boots up. Sorry; misread the original post and missed that you'd already power cycled the machine.

You could probably clear the message by turning off the printer--it should be gone when you power it back on. For the button issue, I would try removing the front of the button and checking for debris inside the button, and making sure the hex nut is tight where it should be on the inside. If that doesn't do the trick, reach out to your reseller. Removing the button front is pretty straight forward and only takes a minute: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187086-The-Button-Won-t-Click

Try increasing the inner and outer wall acceleration in Cura to 1500mm/s.

Is it telling your your BB Core is really an AA Core? Is the BB Core sitting all the way in the printhead until you hear a click? If you try putting your AA Core on that same side, does the printer read that? It's just not reading the BB Core at slot 2 If you put an AA Core in Slot 2, will it read that? That will help determine if the issue is your Core, or the printhead.

You can check total print time by going to Maintenance --> Advanced --> Runtime Stats. The other part worth checking for wear and tear is the bowden tube. Remove both ends from the printer and run a fresh piece of filament through it by hand, checking for any point at which it gets stuck/caught.

You could try a program like MeshMixer, and make custom supports with minimal amounts of touching, like on this print (the post is a bit old, but MeshMixer is still around and something like this should work: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/ Alternately, a little mineral oil might help shine the PLA up a bit where the supports were removed after sanding.