fbrc8-erin

Gr5, do you have any recommendations for the .25 Print Core from 3D Solex?

Have you recently disassembled anything on the printer? Do the motors move okay by hand?

Are both your X and Y motors seized up, or just one? Can you try unplugging them from the electronics board and see how they move by hand when not plugged in?

In the menu, you can choose how often the active leveling occurs. It's recommended to leave it on Always/Every print. I don't have a printer in front of me right now but I believe this is how you choose the settings: System --> Maintenance --> Build Plate --> Leveling Frequency.

Are your side fans running?

If it's getting blocked midway through a print, I'd say the humidity is your most likely option. I had some PVA that had been left out for quite a while (weeks) that I was testing with. On Friday I successfully ran a 24 hour print. By Monday it it had finally reached the point where it had absorbed enough humidity that my next print failed. As far as disassembling it goes, I think it's really easy to damage with disassembly and not see it--it doesn't take much to twist the double heat break just enough to disturb the flow of the filament. However, I think if that was the case, you'd be seeing the print fail sooner.

Are you using the active leveling? It can add a little height to the Z axis because it does corrections on the first 10mm for leveling, and then phases out the corrections over the second 10mm.

Judging from the first photo, the filament insert guide is not upside down. The spring looks like it shifted in the lifting switch and worked it's way loose. It should be a pretty straight forward fix. Since you're in the US, please reach out to Support@fbrc8.com so we can get you what you need.

It looks like it's not supported with PVA according to the latest table on the compatibility chart: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility PVA only seems to be supported with CPE, PLA, and Nylon. It says TPU, PC, and ABS are considered experimental/use at your own risk, but my impression has always been that PC and ABS do not adhere well to PVA.

The problem with this is that it must be done before every print. I'm also not sure if this will work if using the second print head for support, but am about to try. Thank you for any help. Best, Joey Hi, Joey, I've got a video of the lifting switch calibration here: Can you let us know at what part you're having problems? Are you pushing the printhead into the bay in the back right corner by hand when you run the calibration?

my menu knob does not move the bed, should i take a video of everything the printer does and i do to it? Your menu knob should only move the bed when adjusting the back rear point. For the front adjustments, you should be using the 2 screws on the underside of the bed in the front corners.

It's definitely a filament issue, not software. It can happen when the filament is loose, or if it was spooled badly by the manufacturer.

Oh yikes! That's rough. At least it's not winter...?

While it would be great to be able to resume a failed print where it left off, realistically, it's problematic with an FDM printer like this. For most materials, the heat of the bed is what holds the print in place. Once the bed has cooled (which can happen depending on what sort of failed print/error you have), the print can either come off the bed altogether or be sufficiently loosened from it that if you tried to resume the print, the print just wouldn't stay adhered to the bed and you'd end up with a printing mess.

True, Kmanstudios. It's not on by default for all materials (for example it's not on by default for PLA), but for CPE, CPE+, NYLON, PC, TPU 95A, it's on by default to help create a cleaner print. PLA tends to print okay without it. You can choose to turn it on or off, but for a material where Cura has it on by default...it's probably a good idea to leave it on.

Is your white silicone shield still in place and intact at the bottom of the printhead? If it's missing, the printer is going to have hard time maintaining the needed heat for the Cores.

Glad it's working well now. Definitely important to use the right size material for your machines with the right diameter settings.

Curious to see how this goes. I've also heard some people experimented with ABS with HIPS supports, but I got any feedback on how that worked out.

Nice save!

You should only need to do the XY calibration the first time you pair up a set of Cores for a particular printer. It should remember the calibration forever. If you pull a BB Core from example from a different machine and put it in, it will require the calibration to run again, but as long as you're not creating a new pairing, it should remember the existing calibration.

The material should be 2.85mm. You could use a third party conversion kit to switch the printer over to 1.75mm filament, if you really wanted to, but as it comes, I would not attempt to print with 1.75mm filament. The UM2+ can do multi-day prints, that shouldn't be an issue.

Impressive lights!

Glad to help!

I'm glad your printer is fixed. Most of the time an ER18 can be resolved by reseating the cable; very occasionally I've persistent ER18s that require a replacement cable.

It sounds like there may be special characters in the name of your file. If you have special characters (ü, é, for example), it will power cycle when you try to start the print.