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I echo what gr5 said about the Teflon piece; how many print hours have you put on the printer? Also, how fast are you trying to print?

Are you sure your bed is close enough to the nozzle? It's a little strange to see that much warping with PLA when you're using a brim. How fast is your first layer speed?

We had factory refurbished Ultimaker 2 series printers available; we currently don't have any in stock at the moment.

Glad to hear it sounds like the issue has been gone for a month. Generally reseating the cable does the trick in most cases.

Is it telling your your BB Core is really an AA Core? Is the BB Core sitting all the way in the printhead until you hear a click? If you try putting your AA Core on that same side, does the printer read that?

Have you tried turning down the first layer speed? I don't think it changed in 2.7, but if you're having adhesion problems on the first layer it's one of the things I'd look at.

I hope you enjoy your days off. If you get a chance to get the photos, maybe we'll be able to see what's going on with the assembly. The lifting switch set up is definitely one of the more finicky parts of the printer to assemble.

Could be!! I may have to call in an Exorcist or something. Right now I just can't get the lift mechanism to go back together correctly. Form an engineering perspective it looks right, There just doesn't seem to be any other way to put it gother, but the Nozzle just won't install. I must be looking at something the wrong way. Could you provide some photos?

Ultimaker highly recommends printing PC with a door on the front of the printer, per their guide on adhesion sheets and doors for their materials: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49779-installing-the-advanced-3d-printing-kit-for-the-ultimaker-3 Putting a door (or other enclosure) on the front of it will help the bed reach temperature faster, as gr5 said. It does take a quite a while to get to 107 (I like printing with PC), but it goes a lot better with the door on.

Was the USB stick removed from the computer without safe removal? It can cause a read error. You may want to reformat the USB stick (FAT32 formatting) to be safe.

Thanks for the feedback. I know that overall i can use the UM2 assembly manual for the UM 2 go. The main difference is the measure and possition of the X/Y sacer bushes. Therefore i liked too know where, and in what position the spacer bushes are in the UM 2 go greetings Ed Hi, Ed, the only difference for the 2 Go vs. the 2 is that your front most spacers on the 2Go are 3mm wide, whereas on the UM2 they're 5mm wide. The large spacer is still 25mm and the medium ones are still 10mm. Make sure everything is tight against the walls.

leliep, did reseating the cable go okay? The other thing to check is to make sure you're running the most up to date firmware, which can make a difference with the i2c errors.

Glad you were able to resolve it!

I did not see any other kit for the extended version, but I can email them to see for sure. I'm sure they will tell me it should fit fine since the motor doesn't "normally" sit at the top left corner of the back, therefore making it unreachable. I will look for wire similar to this and see what I can do in the meantime. Thanks so much for the quick response. - Jason There is only 1 size for the upgrade kit. The UM2X+ and UM2+ use the same length feeder motor. Sounds like it's just not quite long enough to reach the other feeder location.

I don't think I'll be there this year, but hope everyone has fun. I had a blast the last time I went.

Glad the UM3 didn't get damaged. Battery back ups are great for saving prints when there's a short power interruption. A power outage of even a second will turn off the printer long enough to disrupt the print (without any way to restart it). It generally powers back on to the main screen. Because when it loses power it goes back to the main screen, your print bed doesn't stay hot, so the print could come loose from the bed before you find it. It's definitey strange that the printer remained off after the outage; that I haven't seen before; normally it just goes back to the main screen. If you go up a couple of posts, he found that the mains field disconnector created the issue and once reset, it worked again. Ah, missed the post about the mains. That would do it.

Are you running the latest version of the firmware and the latest version of Cura?

Looking at the default profiles for Beta Cura 2.7, here are your volumetric extrusion rates for the .8 Cores: Fast .2 layer height X 35mm/s X .8mm nozzle = 5.6mm^3/s Extra Fast .3 layer height X 35mm/s X .8mm nozzle = 8.4mm^3/s Sprint .4 layer height X 35mm/s X .8mm nozzle = 11.2mm^3/s You may be able to push it higher, but if you push too fast at too high a temperature, you could see heater errors.

Glad the UM3 didn't get damaged. Battery back ups are great for saving prints when there's a short power interruption. A power outage of even a second will turn off the printer long enough to disrupt the print (without any way to restart it). It generally powers back on to the main screen. Because when it loses power it goes back to the main screen, your print bed doesn't stay hot, so the print could come loose from the bed before you find it. Edit: (Ignore this part, I missed the post about the mains) It's definitley strange that the printer remained off after the outage; that I haven't seen before; normally it just goes back to the main screen.

I haven't been here for a while. I just wanted to post a thank you for this link. I was getting severe slipping on the y-axis, but only with some prints. I had checked all the accessible pulleys, I couldn't reach the ones on the motor itself. The main thing that made the difference was that gem about using homing the print head and seeing if I can move it. I could! Without that certainty I'd have been reluctant to start taking things apart to reach the motor. And, so far it is printing perfectly - after about 6 failed attempts. On the bright side - I tuned a lot of things trying to debug this, so now it's working as good as ever! Glad to help! And extra glad to hear your printer is back up and running as it should. Trying to move the locked printhead is always a favorite test of mine, because it's a good way to know if it's loose before taking anything apart.

I always keep the flow rate at 100% that way when you're adjusting speed or other settings you know exactly what you're adjusting. Was the filament tangled on the spool?

There are a few reasons the filament can get get chewed up like that. It's kind of a chicken and the egg issue. Ultimate cause: Something prevented your filament from moving, so the feeder chewed on the same part of the filament for a period of time, instead of advancing it. What caused the filament not to move? That's where it gets trickier to diagnose. Either the filament was caught on something on the spool side so it couldn't advance that way, or there was some sort of impairment either in the bowden tube or the nozzle. Debris in the bowden tube can cause flow issues. Also, burnt material in the Core cause issues, as well as problems if there's residual material in place and you switch from a higher temperature material to a lower temperature one.

Every print that ships with Ultimaker printers is printed on the printer that it ships with. I can absolutely verify that. As Gr5 mentioned, sometimes things do happen during shipping.

If one of the safety jumpers it out, with the UM2 you should see a Safety Circuit error. If this was a UMO+ I don't think it presents the safety circuit error, but you'd encounter the same issue whether the motors don't move.

Jerry33, can you please confirm that all 3 connection points are good--the power cable to the wall, power cable to the power brick, and the brick to the printer? If all 3 points are plugged in securely and it's power cycling when you try to print, or do an XY calibration, then it's probably the power supply. Since you're located in the US, you can reach out to Americas-support@ultimaker.com for a new power supply and we can get you taken care of Monday.