Labern

You can get it from the Gr5 Store Here They call it the TFT coupler but same thing really. It works really good.

Ethyl Acetate won't fully dissolve PLA. I haven't tried vapor treatment using it, only dipping / wiping and it only has a slight effect. If you do it to much it will give white marks.

I think If you do a good quality print but want the shiny look and feel then using a quick treatment of Chloroform will be great. Although thicker layers do work, you loose details when you try and remove all the print lines as you say. But this I why I did this test to see how much of and effect this made. I thought of using one of these flasks and block the top. so when heated the vapor comes out the side spout and you could use it like a spray gun. If it would work then you could do large prints.

The wood is not so strong though. Not sure how it would last with the string tension. But it definitely wood be the most ideal

Yeah I would also say Coupler, The new TFM ones you can get now are a lot better then the old ones and last a lot longer. The old ones can have a very short life span depending on your prints and settings.

Hi Stephen I am also from NZ @SandervG maybe able to help you find a solution. I have also raised my concerns over this change. Not something that I'm overly happy about and have had responses from Mindkits that I did not fully agree with. I fear for my ability of requiring new machines and equipment at a reasonable price especially in a timely manner.

So what kind of help do you need?

Yes I have the kit. The install is pretty easy. As you have the 2+ it makes it even easier. You just remove the fans, unscrew the heater block, remove the sensors and install the new block. Height and leveling will remain the same so it will be all good. I made up a Bowden tube to reduce the retracts but you can insert a 1.75mm bowden inside the 3mm one. you will just have to make stopper at the feeder end to stop the 1.75mm bowden moving back. I havent used the UM2+ feeder so i'm not sure if there will be issues there but i'm sure any could be resolved.

You not meant to tighten the screws all the way. With mine the threads are just sticking out of the finger nut. Raise the plate so its about 1mm away (by eye as it doesn't need to be accurate) at the back. then just check the front left and right. If its to close or far then adjust the finger nuts a little till its about right. It will then go to the back. put a piece of paper underneath the nozzle. Adjust the white knob till the nozzle just touches the paper. then when it goes to the front left, try to slide the paper underneath and adjust the finger nut till it just touches. and repeat on the right side. After this you can print THIS As it is printing the test then just fine tune the adjustment with the finger nuts till its nice and level. This should last you a few months.

use a higher initial layer (about 0.5mm) and you might need to increase the nozzle temp some more. 0.8 nozzle requires a lot higher temp at the same speed that you would use for PLA.

you could try Make Printable

Yes it prints really well. The theory is that with 1.75 actually applies more pressure in the nozzle due to the smaller surface area. Also its meant to be more accurate on smaller prints as the feeder runs faster. But I haven't noticed any real improvement.

If you want to do it properly then get the Kit from the Gr5 Store. Its not to successful without the proper hotend and stuff.

So I have run some more tests. Close up photos don't really show how smooth and shiny they feel in person but its a good comparison.

Looks Great. You can add this to the Prints section.

Very cool, it looks great.

Slice it using Cura 15.04.4 as its a bit more proven to make sure there is no funny setting screwing it up.

0.1 I just grabed some rubbish print to test with. I may try higher layer heights like 0.25 to see how well it smooths them.

This is done in about 20 - 30 seconds This is done by heating the chloroform to 100deg. If you leave the print there for any longer it starts to over heat. I'm yet to try it at even lower temps so it can stay there for a longer time and smooth more. I have heard that you can leave it at room temp over night which could be better for PLA so I might try that tonight.

I'm just going to wait for the 2+ extruder. At least the motor can remain inside the machine and you don't need to worry about the firmware mods.

Use GT2's Read Here as it should have all the information you need.

At what height do you have the fans on full? Because the fan on the right side is off center. sometimes if it is on full on the first few layers if can cool the glass to much and the print peels up.

competition??? Nope i don't think so.

Is this on UMO+ Cooling fan?

Looks Great