Labern

When it comes to 3D CAD it really depends on how your brain works, What is easy for some is confusing for others. you have to find one that works for you. I would not recommend Sketchup, its free and easy to use but its not that good when you want to print what you have just drawn and for small objects. If you don't mind cloud then give ONSHAPE a try. its also free and simple, there are heaps of videos and tutorials of how everything works and how to get started. Plus you can email them if you get stuck. Its really a matter of trying out heaps and finding one that you can understand quickly and works for you. In cura there are Quick print settings, you can try with those first and if you run into problems then check out these guides http://support.3dverkstan.se/category/31-guides%C2%A0 they are really helpful at understanding what is going wrong with your prints. If you still cant sus it then jump on the forum here and ask away. there are always friendly people that can point you in the right direction.

Oh Well, it would have been a cool addition. to bad you can't just solder on a filter or something. Thanks Anyways

I have just come across this topic and find it very interesting although most of it might as well be in another language It seems everyone here is implementing this on there UM0's but can this be installed onto a UM2 with any benefit? I don't know a lot about electronics but if it can be done it could be a fun project.

Tried out my Fan shroud with a 0.25mm Nozzle, Turned out quite good.

0.25mm on the Olsson Block from 3d solex

It can be hard to know what areas are actually at 50mm/s as there is so many settings now. Its kind of a catch 22 with going slow. I have seen that the top/bottom speeds have been set really slow lately. When you go really slow but your temp is high (so you don't get under extrusion on infill) then you can over heat the top and bottom. Going to slow the heat from the nozzle touching the plastic can make it to soft. This is why not varying speeds much means you can adjust the temp just right.

That can happen if your infill speed is higher than your shell speed. I printed this at 30mm/s (all settings at this speed) and 190deg and it turned out pretty good. If your speeds vary alot it's hard to get the perfect temp for some details.

yeah its to hot. make sure the fans are on full. you will want to print quite cold and could try printing 2 at once. its not really the best design. What temps? Layer height? speed?

Orientation can be important with overhangs like this. You will notice that one of the fans blows closer to the nozzle then the other. Rotate the part so the overhangs are on the side which has the fan closest to the nozzle. Also, what are the Temps you used? Some of those default speeds vary alot, this restricts how much you can lower the Temps. Pretty much the slower and colder you go plus heaps of fan the better the finish you will get on overhangs

I know this is not what you describe but I have noticed in one version, I think 15.02. that if you pause it will retract and move to the side and if you abort while paused it will then retract a second time as its homing. but if you abort from the tune menu it will just retract once. But I have to also push the material in a bit at the start to get it going.

I finally decided to try out the Tree Frog that I have seen heaps of other people print and see how well my new fan shroud that I designed works. Not bad for a first attempt.

Can you use spiralize and make the shell thickness really thick?

Original shroud with fans mounted at widest point measured to be 99.6mm. My shroud is 100mm wide, .2mm either side is nothing to worry about. I didn't have any issues with the old one hitting the sides or my new one.

oh, you maybe right. No, it has no impact on the printable area. Its widest point is the same as the widest point of UM2 Original Metal Shroud.

I'm currently printing off objects with different nozzle sizes and will post pictures here when done. Fan angle doesn't really matter that much, I have experimented with a hole range of angles but settled with horizontal. what is important is giving the air room to pick up speed once it has passed through the fan. so if they are on an angle you would need to reduce your build volume to do this. Yes it does look like a boat. personally I don't like it but it really comes down to performance I did not think you were forcing me to try your design and yes sharing ideas is best. I actually printed the fan shroud with slotted holes so I could raise it up and down. the height you can see it there is the same height as the original. I found this to be a good height. it allows enough room for the air to escape without slowing down. I have done smoke tests to watch where the air travels but its to hard to see in the video, I was able to watch in person. I originally was just going to fold up something like this But instead decided not to. I have already started designing the folded out version of mine to try. I might just end up making one myself. will be cheaper than getting it made. I just have to make some free time and overhaul our old folder at work. Its in a bad state at the moment.

I haven't had time to load it yet but I will soon and ill post it here. It does require a lot of insulating against the heater block or it will deform. hence why I think a metal version is really the best way to go.

HI Markus I really like parts of your design and I tried to use some of your features in mine. I do have designs that have clip in fans etc.. The only reason I didn't just download your design and use it is because I wanted as much air blowing on the print as possible and I'm not really concerned about air blowing on the Teflon isolator. If you would like me to try it so you can see how it compares I can (and probably will anyway)

Just started a new topic for my fan shroud here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10554-um2-fan-shroud-replacement/?p=102188

Since I heard UM was no longer doing the dual extrusion kit for UM2, I have been thinking about replacing the dual fan shroud for one that better suits using a single nozzle. So I ended up downloading a few designs from youmagine and found Venkels design really improved my print quality. But since then I got the Olsson Heater Block upgrade which means the nozzle sits a bit lower. So I redesigned Venkels Fan Shroud so sit at the new lower height. As I was doing this I noticed a few things with the design that didn't seem to be the best solution. So I did a bit of research on axil fans and asked some experienced and very knowledgeable people on the subject and what they have found. Then I started designing my own shroud. Originally I wanted to keep the same look of UM2's original shroud with the fans on 45deg angle etc.. but from what I had learnt I found this wasn't the best option. I also would like to make one out of metal as printed ones just don't last so have kept the design in away it can be replicated in metal. I calculated the area of the open area of the fan and the area of the exit orifice of the original fan shroud and found them to be the same. so I thought that was the best starting point. Here is what I came up with I carried out Makers overhang and bridge tests using the default cura settings. I know they don't give the best quality but I'm just looking for comparisons. I also have noticed that people are designing shrouds and greatly reducing the exit orifices, this goes against everything I had recently learnt but thought I shroud test it anyway. I designed it so the orifice is more directed at the nozzle and reduced by just over half the area, here are my results I know there is always room for more improvement and I can carry on testing more things. I will load the designs on youmagine for Olsson block and original heater block and nozzle. But ultimately I want to get some made out of metal. so if there is any interest let me know as It will reduce costs if more then one is made.

Yes I did. I must have missed that post. I put a lot of force on it and it did bite but with a little tug it comes free again. thanks for the update though.

just replaced the washer with a new one but it still doesn't grip it :(

Just found today that even with the element / thermocouple locking screw really tight, the thermocouple is still loose and slides in and out easily.

Just saw this today. We used to use this paste at work but ended up stopping as it hardens at binds your sensors in place. Its really only good for in between seat sinks and electronic components not thermocouples and elements. Also if you do ever remove your thermocouple you have to remove all the excess paste from the hole before putting a new one. otherwise the old hardened paste will actually act as a slight insulator and give incorrect readings.

the nozzles on the olsson block sit about 4mm lower then the original nozzle.

I have been designing my own fan shroud to accompany the Olsson block. I will start a new subject on this. I haven't optimized my settings, I just used default ones but here are my first test results. (note that the Venkel shroud has been lowered to the correct height)