Labern

Hey, I have A I2K ready to install along with an Olsson Block, wanted to keep it stock at this stage for testing perposes and cos it's to new I also had installed one on my UM2 and had issues when printing tiny parts so I removed it again. But I will retest it as it may have been something else that caused the issues.

You can use cool head lift in cura under advanced and cooling fan settings. to make it work on every layer you can adjust the minimum layer time. You can also use this modifier found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/edit-cool-head-lift-value-for-small-layer-blocks made by xisle that allows you to adjust the time it pauses for every layer. if you use the default one its defined by the time it takes to print each layer.

Yeah it was kind of troubling for me. but just a process of elimination. only other thing after this was the nozzle but i can go down to 190 now with no under extrusion. The best answer thing is a bit of a flaw when you find your own best answer but i cant mark my own. Also my first question was answered by you @DidierKlein earlier but my issue continued and turned out to be something else entirely. So would marking the best answer for the original question be best or what fixed my issue?

Welcome all newbies. Will be good to see some of those great prints.

Well it looks like I have solved my issue. I removed the Teflon insulator and it had a rough texture. I passed some filament through it and compared it to a spare insulator. The one from the UM2go was hard to pass the filament through. the indentations from the feeder was scraping along the inside and wasn't smooth. while the spare one i had passed through easily. After replacing it here is the print results, A big improvement. Will contact support to get a replacement.

Try removing the material out of the machine. If it doesn't come out via change material then turn the machine off and just pull it firmly out. Cut the filament into a point so it's like a sharpened pencil. Sometimes it can catch on a edge as it enters the nozzle. try this first as it's the main cause.

The Pink roll is a new one that came with the printer and haven't tried it on another machine yet but I have used blue on the UM2go and it had the same problem. Also the test print done at Ultimaker that came in the box was silver PLA and it also had the problem. I have printed a few items with my own settings and also printed items that came on the SD card with the printer. Setting pulled from the Gcode are as follows: was printed with default PLA setting of 210deg, flow on machine set to 100% and 2.85mm diameter. I measured the filament and its 2.85mm I also still have issues with the material skipping back, even with Roberts feeder. I have also unwound the roll so the filament is really loose. I'm beginning to think the Teflon part may have something wrong so I will check it.

I also installed Roberts Feeder and it didn't help. I'm only concerned as my UM2 doesn't have these problems with the same Gcode file.

@gr5 I tested the temp using your method and it seemed to be hotter then yours. So I got out my temp tester and put a thermocouple inside the nozzle and held one on the outside. the first pic shows the temp inside the nozzle and the second shows the external temp. As you can see the nozzle isn't cold.

Yes it can handle it. but its the difference in speed that's a problem. the faster you go the hotter the nozzle temp needs to be. So you will need to increase the temp. this will fix the infill but make the slower areas a bit hot.

HI In Cura you need to go to expert, full settings, then go to the advanced tab and you will see infill speed. Slow this down. 10mm/s (or close to it) above the print speed is good. to fast and you get problems like yours. you can even out all the speeds so they don't vary to much between each other. Example: 50mm/s outer shell 55mm/s inner shell 60mm/s infill 50mm/s top bottom

This is really the first forum I have used as most other forums I have been on People complained to much and were to impatient, so I didn't bother continuing. Although some things are currently lacking on this new forum. I don't find it that bad. I think there are some improvements over the old forum and it there has been some improvements so far to fix minor things. But I will be nice to see a visual change to help reduce the white space. But as sander said, Its being worked on.

Thanks @DidierKlein, I was eventually able to get both sides out. the last bit took a while but got them out in the end without breaking anything. So I have tightened both belts, Done atomic pulls a few times, Reset Firmware, adjusted temps, slowed down. None of them really solved it. I can get the lines to join but only when I go up to 225deg. I used the Gcode in my UM2 (surprisingly worked fine) and it printed fine and was able to even drop the temp 10 degrees and it still printed ok.

Im not able to log in. I used to use Google to log in but it comes up with an Error: redirect_uri_mismatch

Its running the latest firmware. Will try factory reset.

In Cura what settings did you use to print the item? Did you use the quick print settings? If so, what one did you use? and what cura version? If you used the advanced settings what layer height? What speed? what nozzle temp did you print with? did you use the default PLA material setting on the printer?

Are you talking about the flat surface or the outer round surface, maybe both? If its everything then I would think that its a bit hot. Providing layer heights, temps and speeds can help solve your problem.

Hey, I have had my New UM2go for a few days now but I'm having a few problems with printing. At first the feeder was skipping heaps but I was able to resolve that. But also the lines aren't touching. Increasing the temp and slowing down the printer improves it slightly but doesn't resolve it. Even the Factory test print has the same problem. So I checked out Roberts helpful troubleshooting guide and it looks like my short belts are 2 loose. I'm not able to push the motors down from the top as there is not enough room. So how do you remove the covers to gain access? It doesn't look like they are screwed in like on the UM2, so i have tried pulling on them but I don't want to break anything as it 2 new

@Sander Just asking, when in Q2 were you going to start shipping printers with extra nozzles and PTFE Teflon parts?

I generally use o.1 bottom layer and 0.04 layer height. 0.02 if there are no overhangs or sticky outy bits. If its a small part then you can go really low on the initial layer as bed leveling is not so important. @carsten You may not be a Pro user, neither am I and there are a lot more skilled people then me but unless you have someone very good to teach you then i would just recommend just giving it a go. If you want to print small detailed prints then stick to the 0.25mm nozzle and practice printing until you find what works. Everyone's setup is slightly different so what might work for me may not be best for you and it does really come down to the part your trying to print. I have printed a lot of tiny parts and i spend a lot of time in layer view adjusting all the settings so it will come out right.

This might be overly complected but it would be nice to have an advanced option to select printer model. how this could be implicated could be tricky but it could look at original topic posters profile and what model(s) they have?? or add like a -(model) eg -UM2 similar to a google search to eliminate some results. I dunno, but the feature would be nice.

You might want to read this as it might be helpful: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/15514-started-to-get-some-random-yet-extreme-z-artifacts-on-one-of-my-um2s#reply-105929

You can get away with high layer heights but you need to adjust the speed and Temps accordingly along with top/bottom multiplied by the layer height a few times. The expert speeds can make a large impact on this as in new cura versions as the inner speeds are to fast. The extruder has a limit on how fast it can pump out the plastic 2 but after a few trials you can still end up with some pretty fast prints.