Labern

Do you have pictures. like one with the weird shape?

I have used a 3d printed fan shroud. It did really improve some prints like the right side of ulti-bot. it deformed over time and after the firmware change i got temp errors. Its in the bin now. I think there is room for improvement for using single extruder. The problem is with the current designs is that there is no proper testing put in place to prove peoples theory's.

you can contact Ultimaker and they will replace it for you. But the only problem is that the replacement might be just as noisy or only slightly quieter as in my case. its best to order this one http://www.digikey.c...1573-ND/2757803 you can also find it on ebay. Its so quiet that you don't even know that your printer is on.

Yes it is. there is this one on youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud but i feel that the exit holes are 2 small for the fans used.

I agree the you want to cool the Telfon coupler. but it needs to be cooled at the base where its touching the heaterblock. The stainless nut goes down to this point. the alloy plate which the nut sits in is at this point to draw heat away from this area.

The fan is to cool the alloy heat sink, not to blow on the Teflon coupler. Passing air will blow on it, but the main idea is to cool the alloy that the Stainless nut and Teflon coupler sits in.

Its very good. I did get some extra stringing but I have changed so much lately I'm not sure if it was the nozzle. this was easily fix with different retraction settings. Does mean you can print things like this with .04mm layer height and .5mm wall thickness. The nozzle does sit lower then the original so the cooling fans are a bit high. Im working on a fix for this and there are a few others as well.

I know the Olsson block cost more, but this does give you a lot more options. cheaper replacement nozzles if they do wear and only takes a few seconds to swap them out. you also can have different sizes for either more detailed print or really fast print using the 0.8mm nozzle.

Hi Welcome to the forum. Clean the glass with alcohol to make sure there are no greasy fingerprints on it and try again. Are you using ultimaker Pla? Are you using the glue Stick? What temperatures are you printing With?

Thanks. I'll check it out and give it a go. I thought the .ini file was ment to alter this Stuff?

Yes I have tried a few of these and some can wear them out quite fast. I would recommend getting an Olsson block from 3dsolex found here: http://3dsolex.com/ Forum discussion here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=71735 Then you can replace the nozzle easily and use steel ones for more abrasive materials.

I also tried this on my UM2 and had the pen crash into the front of the printer during the start. It also started heating up. Couldn't see any steps I missed in the instructions. To bad the ulti evening is a bit 2 far to travel.

For sketchup you need to use solid inspector plugin. This checks you're drawings for errors and makes sure it's a solid or watertight. cleanup3 is also good for removing lines and faces that shouldn't be there. In Cura if you use xray view, things in red are errors. and if you can see it in normal view but not layers then you may have a setting wrong.

Have you tried Kapton film instead of aluminum? Its light and easy for everyone to install.

Yip. Worked perfectly. I was surprised that I didn't need any support. Although I had glass sticking issues for a few attempts. Once I sorted that it printed rather easily. Thanks swordriff for providing such a good product.

Well if you are patient then they are working on off line support. How that will work I'm not sure. But I totally agree. I'm not into cloud stuff either.

thanks for the tip

Thanks Its everywhere now. I cant believe how fast stuff travels like this. Some twisted facts added by some though. I made sure UM got their name in and 3ders.com has added how the community (you guys) have played a part. Because really if I didn't have the guidance from people here then I (and a lot of others) wouldn't be able to make things as good as we can now.

Yay I got heaps of emails about it from various sites. some twisted stories put in from some though, but I Made sure i got UM's name out there.

Yes Its fun to play around with the array of nozzle sizes. The problem is you will then have heaps more settings to check and go through. but changing just takes a few seconds and you can print detailed or fast

Here Is a key holder I designed and printed in bronzefill for a friend who Is into gardening.

or just get the IPM Coupler from 3D solex

I did a search and found one that was the second worlds smallest , as mine looks even smaller. :grin: but who knows. I'm sure its the smallest 3D printed one so that's all I'm claiming. I actually found a smaller battery and I'm sure i can find a smaller button. the problem is, it took me 3 hours to solder it as the wires kept breaking off and was hard to hold all the little bits.

For all those unbelievers out there

my Mini Drill next to a full sized drill