Labern

Users could enter spoken languages into there profile. This could then filter what's shown in the latest posts etc..

yip that would be about right

Yep I was also disappointed to see this.

While playing around with the printer the other day. I had the fans set on 100% and slowly covered one side of the exit holes. you could really hear the fan motor drop in speed. just covering it a small amount really seemed to make quite a difference. So this convinces me more that making the orifices smaller isn't a good Idea.

Hope it's not as confusing to use as this new forum

Where has our chat gone? Cant find it in the new forum?? :(

Yeah, the gaps are small and when printing slow they are easy to bridge.

I Wanted a nice finish inside and out. Printed at 30mm/s with 0% infill and took about 6.2Hours

Sorry but I loaded the wrong model on youmagine. Have just updated it. the one there wasn't for the Olsson Block.

During one of the previous cura updates, a safety feature was implemented where, if the element would heat but not reach the desired temp by a certain time then this error would come up. If you have a fan shroud that has a open bottom then the air reflects off the glass and cools the heater block. It then can take to long for the heater block to fight against the cooling air and get back to the desired temp. 1 reason why you might only be experiencing this issue now and not before maybe the item you are printing might make the air reflect up more then other prints. I dunno So To solve it you can Check the temp sensor and element is fastened securely into the heater block or increase the height the fans come on full, Say 1 - 2mm. this way the fans come on more slowly and the heater block has more chance to fight the cooling air. Or you need to enclose the bottom of the Fan Shroud.

What material are you printing with? Did you clean the tape with Alcohol?

Im glad to see you are getting the head to be more central. the more like the original you can get it the bigger the build volume will be. Would be nice if the park positions could recesses into the front frame a bit. but I guess there are limitations due to cables and bowden. Good work.

Yes I have done this while testing but Is not the point of my design. This Is just to test main design function so I can then make a full metal Shroud. Its faster and easier to design and test the whole thing in plastic. Also Venkels Little metal bit only protects against the sides, you need to protect the sides and bottom. While this is easy for some, not all people have the ability to cut and shape bits of metal. For me I just cut a finger off a kevlar glove I had lying around and shoved that in there and it works perfectly. This is one reason why I did just load it straight away on youmagine as I haven't worked on a way for everyone to easily protect it against the heat. But quite a few people wanted to test it so I just uploaded it. You may want to try mnis design or follow what pm_dude is working on as he is doing what you mention.

You can try mine if you want Have just loaded it on youmagine and you can find it here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud I have been using it and am finding it good. Please give me feedback on printability, I used XT-CF20

Its Ok Xisle Helped me understand the code so I can modify it manually and then he even wrote me a little python program to modify the code automatically. All credit to him and now I can get the printer to do what I want and the quality is greatly improved.

Firstly it wont be 50micron in diameter. it more like a flat line. the width defined by the nozzle width which is normally 0.4mm (can vary a little) and the height is defined by our layer height. in your case 0.4mm wide and 0.05mm high. I am currently printing at 20 micron layer height. I do a few prints at this but its not very common for people to go that low and depending on your model, most of the time it doesn't give the best quality. you can get a aftermarket nozzle of 0.25mm which will mean your lines will be 0.25mm wide.

Topic for fan Shroud is here. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10554-um2-fan-shroud-replacement/?p=102188 There are a couple of people testing it for me, but will be on youmagine shortly.

That's great. Yes I was worried about working on mine at the start but then found its not the complicated and most jobs are simple. Loading photos is a weird process but you Click gallery on the left menu of the forum. Then click upload and create an album and upload to that. There is a tutorial for that somewhere.

I don't see the point in using this nozzle. It's only good for the same material and 2 colors. Even then on complicated parts 2 colors won't work properly. Different colors can require different temperatures 2 print in good quality, also why would you want 2 colors? That's not exciting. If you want color then you want full color prints, so look into those. It will be no good for 2 different materials unless you can print both materials at the exactly the same temperatures which is highly unlikely. No good for materials like woodfill and can't change the nozzle size easily.

Hey guys 3Dsolex now has steel jet nozzles. Wohoo! I have some ordered to try out on some colorfabb carbon fiber, glowfill and bronzefill. they are jet ones so should be good for cold pulls to clear out the fiber gunk and blockages. Go check em out in their store.

I don't know of any tutorial. the silent fan i suggested doesn't have a plug on it, just 2 wires. If you know how to solder then it is very easy to do. you unscrew the old fan and unplug it. then you desolder the wires and plug, then solder them on the new fan. After that you can just screw in the new fan and plug it in. if you can't solder then you will need some crimp connectors or a good way of joining the wires to the current ones in the machine. But don't stress to much.

Hi I Know absolutely nothing about Gcode but for a part Im printing I would like the cool head lift to act a certain way. 1, I would like the Z axis to move down and have no sideways movement. 2, the cool head lift time is defined by the minimum layer time. I would like to start this feature by the minimum layer time. but also set the time that the z axis has moved away from the print. For example: If the minimum layer time is 10 sec and it prints for 2 seconds, then cool head lift will be away for 8 seconds. I would like to be able to adjust the 8 seconds. If i adjust the minimum layer time then the cool head lift will be start at a different part of the print and not where I want it to start. Hope this is clear and if you can point me in the right direction that would be great.

Yeah apparently it would be really difficult to do, But i was just dreaming Maybe we can push them to implement it into UM3

Yes I replaced that one a while ago. Its a nice upgrade. Now I want silent stepper drivers, Then it would be awesome. I found it easy to de-solder the wires from the old fan and solder them on the new one. Printing a slightly refined shroud now. If it turns out good ill post it on youmagine.