Labern

That noise is the feeder skipping backwards. This is normal and a safety feature to prevent the feeder grinding the material. You can see the material curling around a lot as its coming out of the nozzle. Try doing an Atomic pull to clean it.

Wow that's a nice print. Glad it's all going good now. You will be pleased

In the past few days there have been a lot of new people asking questions about problems they are having with their printers. They are also including Pictures and in-bedded YouTube clips to help solve the issues and they are doing this without asking how to include them. This is a big improvement over the old forum as it was so confusing to load images let alone in-bed a YouTube clip. So for new users in this regard I think it will be a lot better. But in the sense of wither they could have found the information they required easier in the old forum instead of having to ask a question? I'm not sure.

that will be from removed spam I think.

I use Kevlar cloth but i think a few layers of Kapton tape would be best. Maybe one on the shroud and one around the block? I'm yet to buy some to try.

What is the orientation of your part. Is the layer shifting sideways? forwards or backwards? or is it shifting in height? The Z motor only goes up and down and only effects the height of the print. It should make a clicking sound every layer as it moves down to put the next layer on top. How old is the printer? The Z screw may need greasing and the guide rod may need a drop of oil. Check the Z screw is securely fastened to the motor.

Every time I go to IRC it's quiet. I'm starting to like the community page. I find it quite good now I'm used to it.

Upgrade the firmware and see if it continues as this flickering is firmware based. But it's still ok to use it in that state.

Make sure you update the printer to the latest firmware. how the temp was controlled in some versions showed rapid temp changes

@xisle, Yes you are correct, I just downloaded his file and tried it. I does seem to have an issue with the "0.1"

@crazybird If its still heating then it should be ok. prob burned skin

It can get stuck really tight and you make break the wires off. If you can, slide the element back in, heat the nozzle up, turn the printer off. while the nozzle is still hot, hold the block with pliers. if there is some metal sticking out from the temp sensor then try to grip that and rotate it back and forward trying to pull it out. You can also carefully drill a small hole in the front of the block. you will feel the bit reach the hole where the sensor is. then try to push it out.

@crazybird Don't heat up the nozzle to 260 if you are trying to clear the PLA, this can burn the pla especially if it sits there with nothing passing through. the burnt pla gives hard deposits on the inside of the nozzle that cause issues when you go to print. the weird shape you are seeing when you pull out the filament is because you are pulling it out when its still to hot. Heat the nozzle to 210deg, push the filament till some comes out the bottom, the let the nozzle cool down to 90deg and try pulling it out hard and fast. if the shape still comes out a bit weird the wait for it to cool down more and try again.

I find I have the same problem with yours @xisle and don't think it's caused by the STL i have used stl's from various programs that do this. I can't really explain why cura is doing this but I have had various issues with this while scaling models down to print and just found this to be the issue. Sometimes it even chops the bottom layer off entirely but then adds another layer onto the height. example set the layer height to 0.25 and the initial to 0.1

Yeah I grabbed a few spares from work there should be a good fastener store in your area

that's great. gland its going well for you and you didn't have any problems installing it. will be good to see some cool prints that you come up with.

Yes I agree that you need to be careful with the screws The screws are not that bad but the allen keys that they supplied are low quality. dome head screws tend to strip easily as the hexagon hole isn't very deep so care needs to be taken.

I wonder if it works for PC and ABS, would be good to try it on high temp plastics.

Hehehe, it made me laugh when I saw it.

Its dependent on your Initial layer thickness. for .25layer height you will need to set the initial to 0.2 to get all details and for 0.06layer you will need to set the initial layer height to 0.1 not sure why, but that's how you get around it.

That's looking great @ultiarjan

How come the extended gets those features but the UM2go doesn't :( I'm surprised as mine came with a really noisy fan.

Looks Great, I'm jealous Yes there packaging has greatly Improved. I got my UM2go last week and the carry case it comes in is awesome. The Extended looks strange being so tall I'm sure you will have heaps of fun with it and will be cool to see some of those extended prints.

There are guides under the support section of the main Ultimaker website. Here is the link to the issue you have: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning Its a very good guide with pictures that show exactly what to look for or adjust.

I have just noticed this new filament that popped up on the website. I'm wondering if it's a remodelled PET that came and went from the store a while ago. It comes with a PTFE insulator and says higher printing Temps.