cjs

It's intentional. There was another thread, which I currently can't find. @Daid, which I think is the head firmware developer at Ultimaker HQ, said that this was by design. Cant remember the reason Why do you want to change the flow rate anyway? Personally I'm not a big fan of those live adjustments. I would do some tests before and change the flow in Cura according to your material.

@tomnagel Yes I did indeed change the stock tubing to high quality PTFE tubing as I tested 6+ stock tubes and wasn't happy with the quality Ultimaker sells.

Any news regarding getting rid of the movement? It especially gets really frustrating with adhesion sheets as you will shortly see a dot with the last used filament color at this spot, which will make the underside imperfect.

Has anyone at Ultimaker HQ had time to look at the logs yet? I was talking to a colleague and she told me she also spotted this bug at some point!

I do like the new screws

I also spotted the error and started the following topic. For now it seems like you can only increase the maximum resolution, export your stl files at medium resolution or print slower. I hope Ultimaker will do something about this rather soon

Well ... actually they are rather slow and on the save side. Please do have a look at the specific speeds for the features. You will notice that only the infill is printed at the so called print speed. The walls are normally reduced to approx. 1/3 of the print speed.

Well I don't know if you have tested it yourself at Ultimaker HQ @Marco_TvM and @WesleyE ?! I finally got to do some testing in this regard and this are the results. As @Marco_TvM suggested I used the marlin errors Page and could spot a dramatic increase (+40.000) of the planner_buffer_empty statistic and resends did go up to 5. The black filament color isn't ideal for photos but I think the difference can be spotted. (Left= high resolution stl; Right= Medium resolution both @40mm/s ) The artifacts are reduced with Cura 3.3 Beta as the Maximum resolution is increased by 0.03mm, but are still prominent.

Seems do be quite a big hot plate. Maybe Ultimaker is releasing a Pro Sous Vide Cooking machine

@foehnsturm do you mind to share more information? Are you using a laser sensor to monitor movement like Joseph Prusa does on the MK3 ?

Ultimaker calls it the "Atomic Method" which is described here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19510-how-to-apply-atomic-method

I did have problems with the camera stream as well. Was able to resolve the issue by resetting Cura connect. You can do so by going to the maintenance menu.

Normal print profiles don't show artifacts as the wall print speed is rather slow at 30mm/s. It starts to show if you change the wall speed to 40mm/s.

To me this looks like some feeder/extruder issues. I would do some atomic/cold pulls. Check the consistency of your filament. Manually push the filament into the hotend to see if the temperature is right.

Any chance this approach can/will be implemented in Cura?

Thank you @WesleyE A bit more information for you to replicate the issue: I changed all wall print speeds to 40mm/s Printing one cylinder shows slight artifacts, but it will only show if you print at least two cylinders. May the use of G2/G3 commands be a solution? It sounds like it, but I haven't really seen people using it with 3d printing. Thanks for the tip! I will do some testing with the setting and report back. Maybe I did simplify my statement to much. I only saw a print artifact and did some test prints to troubleshoot/diagnose the problem. The result was that g-code with lots of little lines at a print speed of 40mm/s causes print artifacts which are probably caused by buffer underruns. High poly stl files are likely to produce such short files. It's really hard to notice as only a short stop, probably just a fraction of a second, can cause artifacts. Will be testing if I can see the print head stop with a slow motion camera @kmanstudios you are printing really interesting looking pieces!

Update: Did find the Setting: Minimum Support X/Y Distance. This setting seems to affect the support X/Y distance even though the description says otherwise. I'm honestly a bit confused by all the support distance settings (Support X/Y distance, support Z distance, support stair step height, support join distance) and do not understand the purpose they all have.

Yes it's really confusing at times Hopefully Ultimaker will at some point listen and rework the profile system to be more understandable and useable I just tried a few things in Cura. The difference between the PVA and Breakaway profiles is the Support X/Y Distance: PVA (0.2...) and Breakaway (0.8...) While loading in different models and looking at the generated support it seems like the Support X/Y distance doesn't work properly. When I set the Support X/Y distance to zero there is still a noticeable gap between the model and the support. @ghostkeeper may it be possible that you could have a look?

From testing the Ultimaker 3 seems to have problems with high poly stl files. Such files result in g-code files created by cura with lots of really small moves. A lot a small moves mean that the main computer needs to send many command to the motion controller in a short time. If the motion controller has run out of commands the print head will stop until it gets a new command. Such small stop can relate to print artifacts. A possible solution would be to implement the G2/G3 for arch as this would mean fewer commands -> no short stops. There has been a request for cura a long while ago: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/429 Attached the stl files I used for testing. I always printed three at a time to not have cooling issues. I also did set the speeds to be all equal. cylinder-resolution_fine.stl cylinder-resolution_coarse.stl

Hm I can not think of any reason why it shouldn't work. Maybe someone from ultimaker will shim in. Did you have a look at this guide: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005705806-Why-Isn-t-My-Active-Leveling-Working- A bit of topic. Your garolite build plate sounds quite awesome. Did you make the plate yourself or did you buy it?

You need to disassemble the print head to check the bottom side of the coupler. The top doesn't wear out.

Thats some good advice. Nylon works quite well and there are also some cleaning filaments on the market. Ultimaker 2 machines don't use print cores. Next up after the nozzle is the coupler. Upper left is a new coupler and bottom right a worn out coupler, which can lead to underextrusion. Picture: Ultimaker.com Have a look at this guide to check your coupler: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22188-how-to-replace-the-tfm-coupler

What material did you use for the atomic pull? You may also want to check the coupler as this is a common problem on Ultimaker machines. Printing PETG at higher temperatures also leads to higher wear of this item.

What other non-glass build plates do you have which don't work? I've got a spring steel plate which just works as well as glass. You are correct that aluminium is thermally more conductive than glass but this doesn't mean that the heat up time for aluminium takes less time. Aluminium has a higher heat capacity and density compared to glass which means you need more energy to heat up an aluminium plate to the same temperature leading to longer heat up times. Anyhow the plates behave different and therefore you may want to change PID values.

You probably want to alter the "Support Z Distance" Setting to something closer zero and maybe also the "Support X/Y Distance" setting. If the PVA profiles works you may just want copy the values of those settings.