Smithy

Die Karte ist etwas dicker als normales Kopierpapier aber auch nicht so dick wie eine Visitenkarte. Aber im Prinzip egal, nimm ein Stück Papier und kalibriere, den Rest macht dir dann eh das Autoleveling falls etwas nicht passen sollte, dafür haben wir es ja 🙂 Du solltest nur schauen, dass das Heizbett ungefähr auf Höhe der vorderen Kante des Drucktisches ist, muss nicht genau sein, aber du solltest dort keine 5mm Spalt haben wenn du von vorne drauf schaust. Persönlich halte ich von diesen Bastelarbeiten wenig, das klappt gut auf den China Druckern weil dort kann man mit solchen Dingen den Drucker nur aufwerten und verbessern, beim Ultimaker hatte ich dieses Bedürfnis allerdings selten. Ok, wenn man ausschließlich ABS druckt, dann mag es vielleicht seine Berechtigung haben, aber mit der Glasplatte ist man sehr flexibel und kommt mit den diversen Hilfsmitteln die schon mehrfach genannt wurden, eigentlich immer ans Ziel.

It is not just you, it is the way, how the notification service is currently working. And you are absolutely right, that it makes no much sense to just get a start and end notification. I have tried it for some days but turned it off again until there comes an update with more useful notifications.

Normally you slice your file in Cura and there you can set all the speeds you like. So there should be no need to change speeds afterward or edit the file on the SD card. Take a look at "Initial Layer Speed" setting, this is the speed for the first layer and seem it is exactly what you are looking for.

You can try if you can remove the support with the support blocker in the left menu. Or try to play with the setting "Support Horizontal Expansion" if it helps.

Hi if you can print from the SD card but not when connected via USB, then it could be probably the USB cable. Try if another one works. Generally, printing via USB is not recommended, it works but is not as reliable as via SD card.

I don't think so, the purpose of CuraEngine is to slice and not to check your STL for some errors. I would be better to use Cura, there are some possibilities (x-ray or layer view) to check your sliced object.

Ich glaube es wäre fast vernünftiger wenn du den Drucker zur Reparatur bringst, vielleicht hast du ja einen UM Händler in deiner Nähe. Du hast schon so viel an dem Drucker herumgebastelt, Motoren, Kabel, Switches vertauscht, dass ich denke du wirst langsam den Überblich verlieren. Ausserdem wenn du die gnazen Ersatzteile kalkulierst die du jetzt schon gekauft hast, wäre eine "richtige" Reparatur auch schon drinnen gewesen.

🙂

White filament is often more problematic than other colors, which is caused by the ingredients to get white. But anyway, it should be better than your picture. You could try to print slower, about 30mm/sec and set all of the speed values (should be 6) to the same value. So that the infill speed is the same for example as the outer wall speed. Keep the temperature at the default value or try to lower it a little bit, but I would try it first with the default value. And try it with a model which needs no PVA support, because as @Nicolinux already mentioned, ABS with PVA is not supported.

Is it only with this print or generally? What about PLA prints, are they fine?

Everything, except the motor? 🙂

No, because the printer needs time to heat up the bed, the nozzle and then for the multipoint auto leveling and turn off auto leveling on the S5 is not possible as far as I know (but I haven't tried it yet on my S5)

A project for a long weekend 🙂

No, I don't think so. You probably baked it too hot or your oven cannot hold a stable temperature. You can only unwind some meters and check if it just the beginning.

I was wrong, the link I meant was just for the print job queue and I thought you can get from there to the graphs, but it isn't possible. So best you save the shortcut in your browser which is the fastest way anyway.

One more idea, but I don't know if it helps. Install again Tinker FW, do a factory reset, enter the needed value for e-steps. Try it if it works. Then install stock firmware again, do a factory reset and try again.

Yes, that's right, but there should be also a link in Cura somewhere (around Monitoring page). I cannot check it because I am not at my printer currently. But the direct access via IP is the fastest way.

This is a function of Cura Connect and not Cura itself. So you find it at the Monitor tab and then you can connect to your printer (UM3, S5)

I have just moved the topic to Nederlands.

And I guess you also used the correct firmware UM2 vs UM2+, because there is a difference between them. Then I have currently no more idea because with the stock firmware you don't have many possibilities. And the feeder itself is ok? Maybe it is a hardware problem with the feeder and not a firmware issue with the e-steps.

I do it also sometimes when I am in hurry, but I have the feeling that the adhesion is better if you distribute the glue with a wet tissue.

Christmas present 🙂

Thanks! Fits perfectly and looks nice...

hmm? Ok, so went back to the original firmware and the original feeder, right?

It is possible to access the camera directly, but it is not possible to have access only to the camera feed. As soon as you connect the printer to the network, Cura Connect is available. But I have read here that it is planned for a future release to have such access controls.