Smithy

I am sure UM did all the steps, otherwise, they would not talk about and ofc never sells it bundled with the S5. I guess the problems started when they went into mass production and in my opinion, it is better to go the hard way and say stop, than they deliver a product which doesn't meet the expected quality.

Dry it again, PVA is a great material for support structures, bad really a mess when it comes to humidity. If you have more than 40-50% humidity and plan to print a longer job, you should consider to buy or build a drybox, to print directly out of this box. The filament makes not always a cracking sound like steam, it does when it is really wet, but you can get problems also before like a clogged nozzle and something like that. My previous print started ok after 5cm PVA stopped extruding for 3-4mm and then started again extruding and printing fine. Was also some kind of clogging but unclogged itself after some time.

Theoretically yes, but I guess you will get a small gap between the old and the new one which probably will cause an extrusion problem.

Sorry, but when the slicer stops at about 40%, this has nothing to do with the printer, you can even turn the printer off or exchange it with another brand and you will get the same problem.

You can set "Max Comb Distance With No Retract" to 1, to get a retraction if the nozzle travels more than 1mm. If you still get no better result, try to play with the retraction settings (distance, speed)

Leider nein, wobei ich so eine Art von Stecker schon öfter gesehen habe. Es ist also sicher irgend ein Standardstecker. Du könntest auf Github schauen, dort gibt es eine Teileliste von UM für den UM3, vielleicht steht da mehr dabei.

It should be possible to mix AA 0.4 and BB 0.8, so that's not the problem. But occasionally there are some print cores which had some kind of identity crises 🙂 But check this thread with more information how to reprogram the print core:

Wenn du den Feed schon angreifst, dann ist es von Vorteil den Stepper Motor gleich aus dem Gehause nach aussen zu verlegen, weil dann gibt es dort sicher keine thermischen Probleme (gibt es zwar so auch selten, aber trotzdem)

I had this problem with the previous firmware too, but since the last firmware update, I never had this issue again.

Can you save your project and upload it here please, then we can look into it. Maybe @smartavionics has some ideas why it happens.

What is your line width in Cura? I guess it is not 0.8, but it is 0.75mm because Cura uses 7/8 of the nozzle size for the line width per default. So your wall has to be 1.5mm to achieve that what you expect. Try to change the line width to 0.8, should not make any difference and try it again.

This can be also contra-productive if it gets too warm inside. Stepper motors can get too hot and a lot of other things can happen. Ventilation is good, but maybe not enough. Measure the inside temp which should not be higher than 30° C. If you get more during a longer print, you have not enough ventilation.

Den Feeder brauchst du nicht unbedingt versetzen, das geht auch so. Zur Not kann man immer noch eine Umlenkrolle konstruieren. Für die Halterungen brauchst du auch kein Stahl oder Alu, einfach selbst drucken reicht völlig. Out of the box, gibt es keine Verlängerung, kannst du nur selbst verlängern was aber kein Problem sein sollte.

Hi Thomas first of all, I guess your PVA is too wet, it should always stored in a dry box and after a longer print, you have to dry it additionally in an oven or on the heated build plate to get out all the moisture in the PVA itself. It is very sensitive. Do you hear sizzling noise during printing? If it doesn't help to clean the clogged print core with cold/hot pulls, you can try if you can free the nozzle with a very thin needle.

Es muss mit einer anderen Applikation zusammenhängen die eventuell eigene Libs mitinstalliert. Python selbst glaube ich nicht, da ich auf dem iMac 3 Python Versionen installiert habe und kein Thema mit Cura habe. Ich wüsste nur nicht wie man das herausfinden könnte, welche Applikation der Verursacher ist.

The S5 with its filament/flow sensor can detect when the spool is empty and pauses the print. But you should be aware, that when it stays in pause for several hours that you will see then some under extrusion on this layer. So try to keep the time as small as possible. There is a postprocessing script available "Pause at Z" but I have read, it is currently not working in the S5, so this is currently not an option. Filament spools are available from some brands in 1kg or 2kg, but as far as I know not in a Tough PLA comparable material. Often just PLA. Using both heads is possible with some tricks, you have to split your model into 2 parts in your CAD software, import both in Cura, then assign Extruder 1 to one part and Extruder 2 to the other part and combine/merge the parts then together again. I would try if the suggestions from @geert_2 could work for your model. Infill percentage is often too much and not needed, but depends on the model and your needs. I often print parts with just 10% or even less without any problems.

Es ist derzeit leider nocht ein Rätsel warum das auf manchen Macs so ist. Die These mit der Bibliothek stimmt zwar, aber es betrifft auch teilweise aktuelle Macs. Aber nicht alle, da ich Cura auf 2 Macbook Pros laufen habe und auf einem iMac und ich habe nirgends das Problem, dass es langsam wäre. Ein anderer User hat das selbe Macbook Modell wie meines, ebenfalls Mojave und bei ihm ist es extrem langsam. Ich denke es ist eine Kombination von irgendeiner installierten Software die da hineinspielt und das Ding dann langsam macht.

Do you have the printer in a full enclosure?

I think this could be the reason and it is definitely not normal. So you should first solve this static issue and then check again if the print comes out ok.

Not sure why you should need the serial number? The gcode flavor should be set to the flavor used by your printer. I don't know your printer, but most of the printer are using Marlin firmware, so chances are high that it will work with your printer.

But I think the shadow should be visible in solid view, but not sure.

So you just changed the filament and it was solved? Great that it is working again, and thanks for the update.

Beim Filament solltest du "Markenware" verwenden, die billigen sind meist nicht so toll und machen mehr Probleme als du sparst. Ich habe gute Erfahrungen mit Ultimaker, Innofil, Colorfabb und Filamentum gemacht, gibt aber auch noch andere.

Ja, schau einmal hier, ich habe meinen UM2GO auf seitlich umgebaut.

Der Prime Tower kann helfen, kann aber auch stören. Falls du ihn verwendest, solltest du ihn so nah wie möglich an dein Objekt platzieren, anderenfalls könntest du "stringing" bekommen weil die aktive Nozzle ja schon druchbereit ist. Ich verwende meist keinen Prime Tower, kann aber beim 2 farbigen Druck wo es wichtig ist, dass die Farben sehr exakt an einer Kante wechseln schon wichtig sein. Bei höheren Objekten gehst du aber auch die Gefahr ein, dass der Turm umfällt, daher eher breiter machen und/oder mt Brim drucken.