dsp

Started a new print this morning no error, If I have a new error I will post the log file for now let's keep our fingers crossed

@tomnagel Thanks for the update, Why is this active leveling such an issue with the latest firmware's ? Are you changing the leveling procedure? Last print was without rebooting, so it should have worked, if I understand your message correct. Printer was finished 3hours in advance just waiting for a build plate being cleared. Cleared the build plate, changed material and walked to PC (Oh wait there is the coffee machine) arrive at pc total about 5min later then start new printjob and leveling error. I print over the network, does the behavior differ if you print through USB? Or is this because I was to fast after reboot with my first print job and it keeps in that modus? no mater how many prints and hours we are later.

Update: when starting a new print had the same error again. did a manual leveling again and restarted the print without issues This is not why we have automatic leveling right? It feels a bit like I have to tell my printer where the glass plate is every single print.

we had one of these and used acetone to soften the abs and removed it with pliers. Nozzle still works like a charm, but use a small brush of paper towels to apply the acetone

@Analiza here are the log files. logs-ultimakersystem-ccbdd3006411-8.1.0-20230224072508.zip

I'm not sure what is happening but, if i look at the cylinder as posted it seams the support is taking in the spot for a normal layer, With the setting as below I get perfect supported Cylinders (it's worth a shot) and PVA for a couple of moths sounds like old to me, Do you also get this when you use a new roll?

This can be done by tweaking with the horizontal expansion, FI on my S5 with PLA i use a horizontal expansion of -0.03 but with ABS its closer to -0.02. Best way to test is to make cubes of 10mm precise and tweak the expansion until the print is exact 10mm.

I will when it's done printing Should be in 16hours or so.

Oke small update, After calibrating lift switch no change, When trying to manual level button was greyed out. Rebooted printer. when trying to start print got ER999 with a reboot option so rebooted. After the last reboot I could manual level. Started print after manual level and it seams to work again. let keep our fingers crossed Oh by the way its an S5 with air manager.

I need some help here, I just upgraded the firmware to 8.1.0 and it is giving me a printer that is a nice paper weight but can't print anything. when starting a print the printer heats up as normal, but when it comes to leveling the bed it fails. The bed remains about 3cm below the printhead when trying to level. Does anyone has a quickfix to this?

Bed adhesion is the issue with the corner on the bottom, this could be due to the adhesive used, but if I look at the model a brim would certainly help (there are pretty thin walls on the base of your model). an other issue is stability , because you have quit high, but thin pillars the print head will cause these to move while laying a new layer (yes the brim will also help this a little) but i think upping the temp just a little will help the new placed filament to cause less stress on the pillars. if you are worried about the bridges you can up the cooling a bit.

I think the Ultimaker S3 is also using the same feeder type as the S5 so because of the bowden tube behind the feeder the filament gets pressed in (its elastic) and since the nozzle stays hot the filament will ooze out. Best to get rid of this is adding some extra retraction at a layer change, an other solution is making a prime tower so the ooze gets stuck on the prime tower and not on your print.

a good resolution is key to a good litho that's why you print them upright, at first I tried them laying down as well (some how it feels unnatural printing them upright). But the results in upright printing are a lot better.

@MariMakes: be careful with the freezer, it can chip your glass plate because it can not keep up with the shrinkage. the fridge for 10min is a better option. @oakcreeklibrary getting a spray with some water should also help with getting a pva print of the plate.

What type of profile are you talking about, If you mean a print profile, go to Preferences and Profiles there left click the profile that is wrong and you can edit or remove it

Looks good mate

Are you sure all fans are running? you should be able to get better bridges with an S5 and PLA.

usually when I use the PLA as support with a roof of PVA then I use the zigzag for the PLA in this way you can get good support which can be removed in seconds

for starters: best way to print a litho is print it upright that way you get much better results. use a brim to keep it standing. take your time to print a litho (small layers low printing speeds give the best results) next to that use a calibration tool to calibrate your printer so it prints smooth every printer and every type of fillament is different. If i recall correct the ender moves the bed in the y direction so make sure the width of the litho is in the y direction this will give less movement to the x axis and result in better litho's. for things regarding the direct drive I can not help you, sorry

check this out for a strong print

I use the filament drybox of Sunlu and keep the pva at a 45°C to 50°C and print right out of the drybox, it works like charm. Also I put around 3 silica bags in with the spool. Before I could use the pva for like 2 to 3 prints max before it started to give issues like blocking in the nozzle and bad prints. my problems melted like snow for the Sunlu, just heat up the drybox 2 to 3 hours before the print and keep it warm for the duration of the print.

I know when updating to the one before latest firmware a lot of user had this, For me the issue was it was loosing its lever location for the nozzle selection. try if you can update the firmware (a fix was released quickly after) check if the right nozzle is down, and calibrate the liftswitch then try again.

ABS takes some time to get used to and the biggest drama is that you need to change the setting depending on the model you are printing. One of the reasons we lately went over to ABS pro, this is a lot more forgiving as normal ABS.

Do I understand the question right? Your brim is not close to the edge and it still says your out of bounce right? But if your model is over the edge of the build plate (higher up) the print nozzle can't reach it as well. I think that is why you get the error right? Once I had a model that was as big as my entire build plate but Cura thought it was to big. So I had to manually change the build plate size in Cura to let it be sliced (but I only did this because I was 100% sure it fitted) this could be a solution.

Personally I would print it with PVA as support, but I'm guessing you don't have dual extrusion. My best bet would be to try the tree support, or modeling the support your self. An other option would be to print the arms separate and glue them on.