dsp

If i understand correct this is 3 times the same model and settings only a different location? did you try and print them one at a time as well? I noticed ABS is really sensative when it come to cooling time, some of our small prints need to be printed with mutiple models at the same time. While with the same settings and filament we don't want to fill the entire base plate wit mutiple models because it get to much cooling time. also I think 50% fan speed is a lot on ABS we usualy print at 2% fan speed

Perhaps making a dual extrusion tower next to the original model If I Understand right your swapping fillament on a single nozzle printer right? If you make sure the first thing it prints is not your actual model but a small print next to it, you should be fine

Can you post the stl file so we can tinker with the settings? I'm thinkin tree support and only from baseplate but without a model I can't test it for you

can you add some pictures on how it fails? it does not look like a hard print. Also have you checked if the model is watertight? I don't have a tinkercad account so can't try for you

I understand what you mean and I don't think there is an other way as closing the gaps, perhaps the simplification tool of your cad can close the gaps, and make a single part before exporting otherwise the easiest methode is to redraw the outershape and print afterwards. Printing complex assemblies takes time, but at the same time if the printed doors of your printed car can open like the real one its a nice feature right 😉

perhaps its the printer because with the S5 we have the option to synch to the printer this is also in 5.1.0

I usualy select a material with the same printing temperature, I don't think the printer uses the material selection on the printer for anything else as loading and unloading the material (all other settings are in your sliced file)

in the original this is a simple task but with a stl already this wont be easy, If I undestand correct you want to make a single part of an assembly and keep the height for the gap in tact, but dont want support in the gap just see it as the part it self as well right? This will cost the engineer who made the original about 5 sec best way for you is to ask him/her.

ah i wouldn't know that, still running 4.13

If i look at the picture can it be that you have a huge brim/raft? look at the darker grey usualy thats the space the print is using. in your picture its right on the edge. so move it to the left slightly and it should be fine And other way in letting cura think the build plate is bigger (but you need to be sure it fits)

for us this was cause by the switch to choose the correct core lost its position a simple recalibrate worked.

@SandervG Thx for the time and effort you spend here and for the invite to Ultimaker when developing the air manager @MariMakes Welcome and good luck with the beard printing i would advise to go for a TPU one with fuzzie skin.

looks like tree support, try and find that option, normaly it should be at support structure. it has two options normal and tree.

Hi, What material and with what settings are you printing this supports? We used to have some issues with PVA (being to moist) we solved this with a filament box heating the spool up to 45°C and keep it there. we turn this box on about 2h before printing with PVA and it works like a charm.

these look like thin walls check the check mark for thin walls and look again.

Also keep in mind the print orientation compaired to the force direction a printed part always tent to break easier through the layer lines (so try and print with the force in the Z direction of the end part or diagonal) Next to that i prefere ABS printing for stronger parts, and up the wall count a bit.

up the temperature will help some but if the layer height is just to big it won't help enough.

de intrek afstand groter maken, welk materiaal is dit PLA? die print ik normaal met 6,5mm retraction ik heb eigenlijk alleen last van stringing met flexible materiaal, maar print dan ook nooit met een .8 nozzle

3d tekenen is voor de jeugd van tegenwoordig bijna intuïtief dat kunnen die gasten bijna zonder uitleg. laat ze een lego boekje mee nemen en zelf elk 1 los onderdeel tekenen en printen dan kunnen ze daarna het lego model zelf bouwen. (kan ook nog 2 of 3 keer ware grootte) leren ze meteen het belang van toleranties.

Or purhaps your ulitmaker is not switching cores physicaly there is a lever on the right side of the print head if your calibration is off it can happen the lever is missing the catch on the backright of the printer and is not pushing printcore 2 down. this is causing this error just aswell.

@3dprntz see there is a lot more information on there @SandervG Can also help you out with info

@DivingDuck You are absolutly right, I have been tinkering with the settings yesterday and already getting a lot better results.

Geert they are not locking the wire, there is a tension relieve in the mill when the tension in the line gets to high it gives extra line to the fish. Next to that what a great print GregValiant.

Do you have pictures of the failures? without it will be a tough guess. one thing I have noticed is that printing walls with only 1 line thickness tend to fail 1.2 times the line thickness works a lot better