dsp

oh i think I understand now, you want to be able to select the based on the material you choose. interesting, we use an excel to keep track of all settings for the different filaments but this would def. be more user friendly

sorry i answered a bit to short i see go to and select materials to see the screen as above

add the brand name to the material and Cura sorts it for you

No inventor plug in? You can say smoother finish(update notes) but converting to STL is causing rounds to not be round not Cura when using Inventor native files a cylinder is round and not angled. See attached pictures same Cura settings. the left one in the picture is loaded in Cura as IPT the right as STL. Don't look at the top finish it was a fast print to test something

after 5 to 10min using flowing tap water it gets softer and you can break most of if you are to late just leave it over night, Be carefull with the buildplate methode of sdivad if your model is thin. the build plate is quite heavy and can deform the print.

Thanks for the extra information Sander, Sadly I don't control the budget, but we will see what we can get, is the tolerance the same with 316L as with the 17-4Ph. the 100x100x100mm will limit the type of parts we can do with it but who knows. Next to the CC .6 core and filament, will we need other things to be able to print with this? I must say the BASF guideline helps in understanding the limitations to this way of metal printing. BASF_Ultrafuse_316L_User_Guidelines.pdf

Any one already tried printing with this Metal? We are really curious about it, but are wondering how the tolerances will be be after the postprocessing. and are there any limitations compared to "plastic" printing ?

You're welcome

print op schilders tape dat werkt.

Do you have an enclosure over your printer? when we started out with ABS we had to put a big cardboard box around the printer to keep the temperature in the printer stable now we use the air manager from Ultimaker with the fan off to keep the temperature stable. this seams to work for us.

have you checked if the initial layer temp is set the same? if you say it only happens at the first layer, In Cura the first layer temp can be different

try and load the PETG as CPE+ the nozzle gets a bit hotter, we already used this before there was an ultimaker petg profile and still do because it works. We noticed that PETG prints better at the top end of the temperature 245 to 250 °C . Also we noticed PETG prints better on simple Painters tape than on glass (but I must say I use an S5 and not a UM2+ perhaps that makes a difference in printing with PETG)

There is a plug in from the marketplace Inventor integration but seems to not work as smooth as with the older cura's

we had some problems in the past using PVA as well, I have solved this by heating the spool up to 45° C for around 4 hours before printing and no more issues here.

this is an issue we encounter as well around 1 to 2 times a month, pretty easy to solve for us at least, Just turn of the printer and turn it back on around 20sec later, restart Cura after that and there is the printer again. I always thought it was due to the IT security but perhaps a issue with the S5 it self.

Am I the only one who encounters much longer load times when using Cura 5 instead of 4.13 we mostly print IPT files and these can take up to 15 minutes to load in Cura 5, this alone stops me from using cura 5.

never mind it is solved in cura 4.3 😉

When slicing in cura 4.2.1 my support is insufficient compared to cura 4.1 cura 4.2 cura 4.1 This results in bad looking prints what is wrong I tried different support setting even conical support but it keep unsupported overhangs.

Sorry I don't know if that is possible I print over the network so I always open the 3fm files in cura. Usually I use them if I think we need to print the project more often. but you can give it a try

under file there is a save button it will save the project as .3mf file You can open this project again in cura to print later or review settings.

check the box on print thin walls and they should come back they disappear because they become too thin.

We use basic painters tape for PETG works like a charm

We had the same looks like the head is missing it position right at the start of a print. with calibration everything is alright but start a print and it is missing the switch by approx. 2 cm Today we installed the new firmware what solved it for us

We had excactly the same thing but I believe it was caused by the head loosing its position. This was visible by it missing the switch for the second print core. even after calibration. It looks like it is solved with the new firmware for us. fingers crossed.

solved the issue the problem was in the Jerk time it was changed when setting it back to original the time is within the 5% difference