GregValiant

That is boiler plate lawyerese for "Pay attention Dummy!!!". It comes up when you open an existing gcode file in Cura (rather than bringing a model in and slicing it.) Printing a gcode that was sliced for a different printer can be problematic. It is important to go over the gcode header information with a fine tooth comb. You can't do that it Cura and you would need to open the file in Notepad or some other text editor. If you slice something for your XL printer then even though it is still defined as a 3v2 - if someone else tried to print the gcode on a non-XL 3v2 the print head may crash on the right side of the bed. If you were to print one of your earlier gcodes on your XL it would be fine and I don't think would need the M211 line since all portions of the gcode would be inside your original firmware limits. It wouldn't hurt to add M211 S0 but as I say, that would need to be done in a text editor.

I don't know guys. I opened the "EasterEggStamp" STL file in Cura. The walls of the hearts are really thin and they go through the initial layers weird. So I uploaded the file to an STL repair site and got this report: --> 0 Naked edges (?) --> 0 Planar holes (?) --> 0 Non-planar holes (?) --> 1492 Non-manifold edges (?) --> 2676 Inverted faces (?) --> 0 Degenerate faces (?) --> 49 Duplicate faces (?) --> 0 Disjoint shells (?) -> Repairing: 100.00% ----- Repair completed in 29194ms ------ -> Vertex count changed from 30339 to 27849 (-2490) -> Triangle count changed from 63266 to 55702 (-7564) This makes me think it's a boolean thing that occurred in Fusion. The pieces parts weren't "unioned" correctly? @MagsE8088 the model errors aside - there are a couple settings you can look at. Make sure the "Outer Wall Inset" is 0. You might try setting the Hole Horizontal Expansion to -.1. I did get it to slice correctly like that. The image is of the "unrepaired" model with 0.2 layer height, 0.4 line width, HHE -.1. A project file is the best to troubleshoot. If you use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file that would be good.

I'm struggling trying to figure out where to go with this now. That simple pulley file should not have created problems for the printer. There are two things that stick out: "...this one tried to print with the z axis at the very top" "...and then prints everything in one line along the very right hand side of the bed" I'm attaching two files. The 3mf is with my normal printer (E3Pro) and settings configuration. The part included is a configuration shape I came up with. Amongst other things it is suitable to print in spiralize mode. The STL file is a different calibration shape to help dial in support. Either model can be scaled up or down to achieve different effects. When you open the 3mf - allow it to "Create" a new printer and "Create" new profiles and Material. Then you can switch over to your 3v2 and see how it goes. I'm hoping it gives you a base line to work from to chase down what is going on. GV_CalibrationShapeA Defaults.3mf GV_CalibrationShapeH.stl

This is your gcode file read into AutoCad. Everything looks good. BTW the gcode reader in Cura is separate from the slicer. When you open a gcode file using Cura you get a true view of the gcode moves (other than G2/G3 moves that ArcWelder uses and Cura doesn't currently display). So we still don't know. Looking at the gcode you provided it should print fine. The M502 command resets the firmware to the "as installed" condition. If worse comes to worse you can create a 2 line gcode file with: M502 ;reset firmware M500 ;save changes and print it. That will wipe out any custom changes like PID, Home Offset, Steps/mm and a couple of other things. I've had to do it twice now. I'd call it a last resort though.

The reviews are good (but they might be from the designers mother). I think it would depend on the scale. The tires could be the determining factor as you would likely want to print them in one piece. Printing the spokes could be real iffy. Printing it all at once??? I'd save the money for a real motorbike. The DXF format...I don't know. A DXF file is a text file. You would have to check but I don't believe it would contain any solid models that could be exported as STL. Cura will load the OBJ files I think. Before I would drop cash on it I think I'd contact the designer and ask them for a sample OBJ file and see if Cura would accept it and slice it. It doesn't necessarily need to be from that model, just something to make sure you can load his/her OBJ files into Cura and turn them into gcodes. Usually when a model is extremely intricate like that one then it was designed "to scale" rather than designed to print. There may be a lot of parts that simply aren't suited to print as they are designed. The spoked wheels and drive chain scare me. It's your money.

Everything looks good with those two files and both your 3v2 and my Ender 3 Pro. I'm thinking it's a machine issue or the firmware is confused. I'm sure there are no lines in the gcode telling the printer to head for the moon. Post both of those "bad" gcode files here and I'll look at them. I do have a question though. I see you have the initial layer line width at 150%. I've been seeing more and more of that (up to 250%) and I was wondering if you read somewhere that it was a good idea, came up with it on your own, or what? GV_FilamentGuide_Pulley_Half.gcode

The printer will take the coordinates of a gcode file and place that "origin point of the print" at the Home Offset position of the printer. If you have not defined a Home Offset location in the printer then the default is the Auto-Home location. That location is often in space just off the build plate. It is the main reason prints are not centered. If your build surface is 240 x 240 then the mid-point of the print will be X120 and Y120 from the Home Offset origin. When you define a Home Offset location then Marlin will assign that Home Offset location as 0,0,0. The Auto-Home location will be related to that 0,0,0. When you Auto-Home and look at the LCD it will show its location to be the same as your Home Offsets. The X and Y values will often be negative because the Auto-Home location is often in the negative quadrant of the ordinate system that is centered upon the Home Offset position. For reference, my home offset is: M206 X-1.00 Y-5.00 Z0.00 And that is why gr5 says it's complicated. I don't understand the comment about the Extruder Settings though. They aren't involved in this even for a multiple extruder machine.

Load a model that has been a problem. Set Cura up to slice it. Use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. It will have everything in it and is the best for troubleshooting.

Use the File/Save Project command and post the 3mf file here. When I slice with a .6 everything looks good. I was using .3 layer height, .6 line width, 100% Initial Layer Line Width, and all flows at 100%. There are a couple of other settings that affect the E numbers (amount of overlap, wipe distance, etc.) but the ones I adjusted are the main ones.

Errors in the model can fool Cura. Upload your model to this place https://formware.co/OnlineStlRepair. I think you have to create a free account to use it. After making the repair (if it can) it will give you a report of what was found and then you can download the repaired STL.

The preview in Cura should be WYSIWYG. Adding an extra layer obviously shouldn't happen. Is the print actually 1 layer taller than it should be? In the Cura Preview it will tell you the number of layers. At the beginning of the actual Gcode file there should be a line ;LAYER_COUNT:737 The top layer in the preview should match that layer count in the Gcode. Scrolling down the gcode to the last layer there should be a Z value just above or just below the ";LAYER:XX" line that it printed at. G0 F300 X151.319 Y151.237 Z147.4 G0 F10800 X151.136 Y150.957 G0 X150.079 Y150.066 ;TIME_ELAPSED:8265.787875 ;LAYER:736 That top Z should match what you calculate within Cura. In my example - .2 layer height and .2 initial layer height * 737 = 147.4. If your initial layer height is different then you have to make an adjustment. Looking that way; the last layer will be off by one because the gcode layers are numbered base 0 and the Cura preview is numbered base 1. The layer count includes layer 0 of the gcode and so matches up with Cura. I think it might be a problem with the model though. Did you check it with the Cura Mesh Tools?

Something is up with your photo and I can't zoom in. If you can share the model then use the File / Save Project command to create a 3mf file and post it here. I'll have an old fireman (that I happen to know personally) take a look at it.

Looking at the little black print I did - there is a lot of stress in the areas of the warps. I'm thinking the outside cooled faster and there was some shrinkage that was different on the outside than on the inside. Printing in an enclosure may be the answer. Too bad the model didn't come with the inside hollowed out leaving something like a 5mm thick hull and deck. Hang on... Try this...Bring the model into Cura. Add another instance. Scale model 2 uniformly at 90%. Move it to 0,0,+5 so it is exactly inside of the real model but 5mm off the build plate. With model 2 selected select Per Model Settings, Modify Settings for Overlaps, Cutting Mesh - and select Wall Count, Top Surfaces, Bottom Surfaces, Infill Density and set them all to 0. It's still a very long print but it won't require infill throughout the whole structure. Here you can just make out the shadow outline of model 2 inside the real model. A spiralized model would be pretty delicate and this one could hit the dock and be OK.

If you know the current draw/power usage you should be able to find an inverter that will work. That would avoid having to do anything but plug it in. A quick search turned up a 1250 watt inverter for $70 US. My Ender 3 Pro is only 270 watts.

As you learned from the first one - Assume that nothing is put together correctly from the factory and you will be good to go. The all-metal hot end is a good idea. So is a more robust layer cooling fan. The 4010 blower that comes stock is weak to say the least. You don't need one of those gigantic dual blower monstrosities but a good ball bearing 5010 is much better than the stock blower.

With the STL loaded and with Cura set up to slice, use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. A project file contains the model, your printer, and all the Cura settings.

Thank you @Smithy. Being a good Italian boy (whose family is from Orvieto) I will attempt a response. It will be in English as my Italian is so rusty as to be useless. I can't even swear correctly anymore. @Benny63 I know the preview is nice to have, but it isn't a necessary feature. When you received the printer - was a slicer program included as part of the package? I will guess that one was and that it is a Two Trees version of a slicer (possibly Cura) and not the Ultimaker version. You would need to go back to "Due Alberi" and maybe they can tell you what changes to make in the Ultimaker version so the preview is generated for your display.

Cura 4.13.1 has a definition for the CR10S-Pro that looks like a match. All the CR10's are very similar and the WIFI/Cloud capabilities shouldn't make a difference in Cura. After installing it check your Machine Settings in Cura. The build plate size looks to be 300 x 300 x 400 and the firmware should be Marlin.

Well, there ya go. I am not totally enamored with my E3Pro but after getting to know it and it's idiosyncrasies I've gotten it to work quite well. The second part was Cura itself. It is not a simple program to learn as there are a ton of options and some can interfere with others. Taking the time to calibrate everything from the frame geometry through the e-step calibration, the belts, the wheels, axis angles, etc. pays dividends in the end. Knowing how to read gcode, how to look at a model and know what it needs to print well, how to apply all the Cura settings to get what you want out of the print...a lot of stuff goes into getting good prints out of any printer whether it's your Ender, a Prusa, an Ultimaker, or my own design the (yet-to-be-released) "Harry Potter 3d Platinum Pro XL Extended Cabriolet w/Easy Button".

Being an old RC guy I decided to take a stab at this with what was left of a roll of PETG. Not good. Using my regular PETG profile with .6 line width the part warped just as @triise's did. Fan on, fan off no difference. I think if you want to print this in PETG (and not move to adding bulkheads or stringers) then you might try putting a plastic garbage bag over the printer as a temporary enclosure. I've had good luck doing that when I print with ABS. You can hold the front open a bit to peek in. I move the filament roll off the top of my printer when I do that. I also had a couple almost empty rolls of PLA and so I used some up on this. That print came out very well with no "oil can" warps like the PETG print has. The print was a lot stiffer as well. Unfortunately, if you leave a PLA hull in the car on a sunny day you may end up with a puddle of PLA in the trunk. Here is the black PETG attempt with a severe oil can warp on both sides. That was all the scrap PETG I had laying around so I couldn't take it any higher. The PLA attempt looked pretty good. You can tell where the ribs are in the STL file (although they don't print). This is the top 250mm of the hull model. (I keep thinking "Bismarck" when I look at it.)

Check your Outer Wall Wipe Distance (0.1 or 0.2 usually works OK) and make sure Coasting is turned off. Retract at Layer Change and/or Retract Before Outer Wall may cause that as well. I haven't seen anything like that with my Ender 3 Pro and so I'm thinking it might be a setting.

Just for a comparison I print PETG at 35mm/sec with no fan unless there is an overhang that will develop a feather edge. Typically when I print in spiralize mode I kick up the line width to 0.6 to make it stronger. That would also increase the total heat that has to dissipate. Spiralize usually drops the speed because the layers are quick and it bounces into Minimum Layer Time. That boat is fair sized though so maybe you are hitting 50 going around. I think you will have to experiment to find the sweet spot. If you sink the model into the build plate you can print just a portion that is going bad. When printing abort after 25 or 35mm.

This comes up once in a while. Earlier versions didn't like Zhops. What version of Cura and do you happen to have Z hops enabled in the print? If you use By Layer it should be OK.

The E values in a gcode file are in "mm of filament" and the diameter determines the area of the cross section and so determines the volume of 1mm of filament. 1.75 filament is 2.405mm³/mm and 2.85 filament is 6.379mm³/mm. A big difference there and you would severely under-extrude if you sliced for 2.85 and printed with 1.75. I think you can create a custom material based on a generic material. Then you can change the diameter. @Smithy and/or @gr5 will know how to adjust for that. Another option might be to switch to Volumetric extrusion (but I'm not an Ultimaker guy and I could be wrong about that).

I have printed a couple of boat hulls in PLA and they came out well. None of that rippling that you have there. Did that happen after the print had completed? It would seem that if the condition was going on during the print that it would be a lot sloppier as one layer would be overhanging the previous layer. Did you have the layer cooling fan running during that print?