GregValiant

I think it's a combination of settings as Nallath mentioned. What leads me to believe this is the fact that it doesn't always happen. When I hit on the right combination it does it. I haven't had a problem with walls though. I'll pay better attention and see if I can catch the combo. My base settings profile doesn't do it so it must be one of the options I occasionally use that trips the behavior.

What might be happening is that there is a bad sector on the SD card. Some commands are being ignored and the printer just moves to the next one it can understand. Try re-formatting the card to FAT32 (quick format is fine) and then try again. I have changed the my default StartUp Gcode (that you will find on the printer in that 3mf file). It does make a quirky move at the beginning before moving off to start the skirt as I was trying to wipe the nozzle off on the purge line so it wouldn't string across the build plate. Cyano-acrylic Super Glue works really well on PLA and PETG. Those legs might be too small, but if they were a tad bigger then printing them separate and then gluing them onto the box is a definite option. A lot of people ignore that sometimes it is more efficient to print separate pieces of an assembly and glue them together than it is trying to do an "All At Once" part. The bottom of the box looks pretty good. Because the nozzle can't "squish" into the support very well the extrusions tend to stay round instead of being flat. That's part of the FDM thing. I've been experimenting with making support weaker so it's easier to remove. Running the Support Intrface Flow at 90% works pretty good for me. I'm able to remove the support easier which makes it slightly less likely that I'll cut a finger off.

@zet this seems to be a problem with certain hardware combinations / configurations. The Chitubox interference is a well known issue. Tell us about your computer and operating system, maybe about the video system and how many monitors you use.

Hello. The gray areas are likely for the "Build Plate Adhesion". Only the Ender 3 has disallowed areas for the clips of the glass bed and they are only along the front edge and rear edge. If you change your adhesion to "Skirt" with the Skirt Line Count = 1, and Skirt Distance = 1mm then those gray areas should get smaller and the model should fit. If you set the Build Plate Adhesion to "None" then the gray areas should disappear altogether.

Here ya go. Your model needed support under the base. You will need an exacto knife to break the support loose from the model. It's an acquired skill. So is not breaking off the little legs when you remove the support. The other item in the model file is a support blocker to keep support from building for the little overhang at the top. GV_hf_small.3mf

It can be done outside of Cura by combining two gcode files. In the image below, the bottom (on the right) was at 0.2, the mid portion at 0.1, and the top portion at 0.3 layer heights. For that print I got fancy and combined 3 gcode files. My little system for doing this involves using "Pause At Height". It requires a bit of practice but it's tedious and nervous rather than difficult. There are a couple of rules to keep this from being overly confusing when you are starting out: Don't use Adaptive Layers in either file. Don't use Z-Hops in either file. Supports can make this either very difficult or impossible. If your pyramid is 100mm tall then: Sliced at 0.2 that would be 500 layers. Put in a Pause at Height at Layer 250. Save the Gcode. Slice it again at 0.1 layer height (now it is 1000 layers) and change the Pause to Layer 500. Save the Gcode. One of the things that Pause at Height does is to generate some Transition code so the print starts smoothly after a pause. Copy everything in the base 0.2 file up to the pause line in the gcode. Paste all of that into a new text file. Copy everything in the top 0.1 file from the pause line down to the end of the file. Paste all of that to the end of the new text file. Here are the last few lines of the Base file, followed by the Transition code, then the top file starts. This is what you want the transition area of code to look like (but with your numbers): G0 F600 X111.553 Y126.1 Z50.2 ;Base file last Z move. The last layer went down at 50.0 and there was no retraction. G0 F9000 X111.628 Y126.3 ;TIME_ELAPSED:3002.611472 ;TYPE:CUSTOM ;added code by post processing ;script: PauseAtHeight.py ;Transition Code G0 Z51.2 ;Move up 1mm above the print G0 X111.642 Y126.3 ;Move to the X Y resume position for the Top print (this line is actually added by PauseAtHeight.) G0 Z50.1 ;Drop to the print height of the Top Print M82 ;Absolute Extrusion. For some files this might be M83. G92 Z50.1 ;Sometimes the Z must be adjusted like when the base is at .1 and the top is .2. G92 E3389.47137 ;Sync the E to the Top print G1 F1800 E3389.47137 ;If the base print ended with a retraction and the top print starts without a prime then it might need to be primed here. ;End of Transition Code ;LAYER:500 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER ;MESH:X-Y Ref Block.stl G1 F2668.8 X111.701 Y126.05 E3389.47564 ;First extrusion of the top file Save the new text file as your third gcode file. The two files can be combined with some copy and pasting and just 7 lines of gcode. The base file ends, move the nozzle up, move the nozzle to the start of the first extrusion of the top file, drop down to one layer thickness above the print, adjust the Z if necessary using G92 and adjust the E using G92.

Maybe. What printer are you using? Creality printers (and some of their clones like Anet's) have known issues with "Pause at Height". After the pause gcode line (M0, M25, etc.) there is an M109 line and it is that M109 line that may be causing the "pause" behavior as it typically causes a 10 second delay while checking that the temperature is up to the set point. There are a couple of workarounds that may fix this behavior. Let us know what printer.

@surfingAllTheTime what printer are you trying to set up? The "Are assigned to an enabled extruder" warning could mean that there is no Nozzle or Material or Setting Profile affiliated (in Cura) with the extruder. If you would load a "Calibration Cube" or "Benchy" other simple model and then use the "File | Save Project" command and post the resulting 3mf file here I'll take a look. If you happen to have an Ender 3 Pro you could download and open the 3mf file that I posted earlier. When prompted to "Update Ender 3 Pro" select the "Create New" option. That will install my printer and settings as a new printer instead of over-writing yours. You could then activate each in turn to see what might be different. I have pushed the build area of my build surface to 230 x 230. That will require you to change your Home Offset position within the printer. It only takes a few seconds. (If you don't, the prints won't be in the exact center of the build plate.)

Remember to pull the cord.

If you have the "Printer Settings" loaded from the MarketPlace - check the nozzle diameter for each extruder. The nozzle diameter should also be present in the Machine Settings for each extruder. Odd that it isn't showing up in that dialog box.

@ahoeben answered this HERE. I have (sort of) gotten results by adding additional sizes as new "variant" files. The advantage is that they appear in the nozzle dropdown box as an option. The disadvantage is that I get a lot of "orange" settings boxes as there are no "quality" files or material files for my added nozzles. You can also get the dreaded "Not Supported" option for Setting Profiles. So the easiest thing to do is to follow AHoeben's directions. "If so, I will have to shift to another slicer." That is always an option.

The commands that control the mixing might be in your StartUp Gcode. I think they would be M163 to M166. Your "real" extruders are T0, T1, and T2. If your StartUp Gcode ends with T3 or higher then it's calling for your "virtual" mixing extruder at the start of a print. Cura looks at the startup gcode as "That's what they want then that's what they're getting.". If your startup gcode ends with a "T" command try "T{initial_extruder_nr}". Cura will note that and replace the keyword with the extruder that starts the print. (the Curly brackets are required.) In regards to the "empty" sign...have you picked nozzles for each extruder?

@gr5 - "Located in Monticello, FL." It's east of Tallahassee.

They are in the Printer Settings that you load from the Marketplace. Next to the Settings Search box is an icon with 3 lines. It's the Setting Visibility too. Click on it and select "All". Printer Settings will load down at the bottom below Experimental.

There is a possible problem that came up within the gcode file. The poster left and never came back so I don't know if they found a fix or not. It can always be adjusted by searching the gcode and editing it by hand. When the tool is changed during a print, Cura anticipates a temperature change. Before the change there will be am M104 line in the gcode. That isn't a problem. After the tool change there may be an M109 line in the gcode. M109 is "set temperature and wait" and that's the problem. The nozzle is in contact with the print and even when the temperature is already at the set point - M109 can cause a 10 second pause before movement gets going again. That leaves a divot in the print. Additionally, at the end of your startup gcode you may have to add something like this: T0 T1 T{initial_extruder_nr} That should cycle the extruders so the filament is ready and at the correct retract distance from the nozzle no matter which extruder starts the print. I'm not 100% on that so it is something else you would need to experiment with.

It's a work-in-progress. As more people get them and use them then wants and needs come up. They aren't offered on Ultimaker printers so support within Cura will take a bit of time to filter in. There are some things you need to do to the machine definition files. Go to the folder "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.1.Beta\share\cura\resources\definitions" and open "creality_base.def.json" in a text editor. In the metadata section you need to find the extruder trains and add one or two. This is what I've done so I can have up to 4 extruders on my Ender 3 Pro. "machine_extruder_trains": { "0": "creality_base_extruder_0", "1": "creality_base_extruder_1", "2": "creality_base_extruder_2", "3": "creality_base_extruder_3" }, Then you need to add extruder definition files. Go to the folder "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.1.Beta\share\cura\resources\extruders" and open "creality_base_extruder_0.def.json". Do a "SaveAs" and name it "creality_base_extruder_1.def.json. You will need to alter three lines in the file. "name": "Extruder 1" in your new file this will be "Extruder 2" "position": "0" in your new file this will be ""1" "extruder_nr": "0" in your new file this will be "1" Save the file and you now have the second extruder. If it's a 3-in-1-out hot end you would need to add another extruder file. In the Cura Marketplace is a plugin "Printer Settings". Load it and restart Cura. There are two settings you need to enable. "Extruders Share Heater" and "Extruders Share Nozzle". After that it's a question of dialing in the changeover retractions, the size of the purge tower, that sort of thing. Look up the M163 to M166 commands on the MarlinFW site. You can add more extruders as virtual extruders and they will be available in Cura. The "M166 Gradient" command looks pretty cool. Those commands have to be enabled in your particular firmware.

I have seen this behavior on the initial layer, but only with the skirt. The 3 loop skirt I use is also laid down as Outside Loop, Inside Loop, Middle Loop. In Cura 4.x it was a concentric motion from Outside to inside. I would assume at this point that it is treating the skirt as a model with two outer walls and a middle wall. That "back up" motion is something I've seen but I can't explain why it is doing it. Maybe @nallath can shed some light on it as I am curious as well.

You will need to do a couple of tests. I knew Retract Continue was there, but I haven't used it.

"Retract Continue" is a post-processor script and not a regular setting. You can find it by going to "Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode" and then "Add a Script". It will be in the list. If you have "Z-Hops" enabled the script will get confused and the "continue" will end because of the z-hop. That would make it fairly useless.

Under the Wall settings take a look at "Wall Order". The default is "Outside to Inside" and seems to be causing some problems when starting extrusions and with overhangs and holes. Make sure it's on "Inside to Outisde" which was the default in previous versions of Cura. That looks to be larger than a .4 nozzle. If there are long combing moves you might want to look into the post-processor "Retract Continue". It parcels out the retraction throughout a combing move (rather than all at once) and can help keep oozing down which helps keep the nozzle pressure from falling off too far.

You would need to drop back to 4.13 or prior.

If you are going to assemble it with glue joints then there will be seams. There is no way around that. How "noticeable" they are is the question. It is often a question of how precise your particular printer is. If the edges of the pie pieces are left square and the pieces are "butt welded" the joints will be weak and hard to align. If the part is thin then "lap joints" might be an option. Lap joints require an overhang on one part and the overhang needs to be supported during printing. If it is thick, then using locating pins (2mm diameter holes with filament pieces glued in) would be a second option. This is my go-to method as the location of the pieces is precise. I have a 1.8mm drill that I use to ream the holes prior to dropping in the filament pieces. As far as the seams at the text go - they would be no worse than anywhere else. If you wanted to get fancy you could make the cut lines go around the letter(s) that are on the main seam. Another option would be to print the text separately and glue it to the base. Again, if the text is wide enough you could use 2mm holes and filament to locate them precisely. Without positive location the assembly can look sloppy. The most noticeable point would be where the 4 pieces come together in the center. If you were to split the model into additional pieces so the seams were not through the text it might come out better. I assume you will do this in at least two colors and this method (6 or 7 pieces) might be the best choice.

The only bottom pattern available when using Spiralize in Cura 5.x is "Concentric". It is "Expected Behavior" and not a bug. There have been a number of people not happy about this. @nallath might have more on this topic as it has come up both here and on Guthub.

They have not been removed and should be there. I haven't seen a bug report regarding this. What operating system are you using?

I printed $3 bills with a picture of Bill Clinton. BTW that was a very nice save. My little printing app has a utility that will print from a "byte location" within a file. I can start a print from anywhere within the gcode file. I was hoping to make saving a print less tedious. Ha!!