GregValiant

Yes, select a CR-10. After installing the printer you can make changes to the bed size or whatever. Cura doesn't care about the WIFI part and all CR-10s are functionally pretty much the same. You can go to Manage Printers / Machine Settings and see the parameters and make changes there. As for the tree supports, you are going to have to play with them. There are 70 or 75 settings in the Support section. Typical Z gap on top of supports is 1 layer height. If you have supports that rest on the model then the floor height can be 2 layer heights. Don't expect a perfect finish. Tree supports grow differently but often the deciding factor is the Z gap and the density of the support interface.

It's the weekend. Maybe @ahoeben has a moment? I'm running Win10 and I've not had any issues like that.

Just to stick my nose in...do the UM printers support M32 and G4? If they do then you can print a main file and have it call secondary files. The G4 would be in there someplace in between to allow the bed to cool. The code below uses the DOS 8.3 filenames that I would use on my printer. You would print a file something like this "Caller.gcode" file which would call "Real Print.gcode" and "BullDozer.gcode". StartUp Gcode runs and then: M32 P !REALPR~1.GCO# M140 S0 G4 S300 M32 P !BULLDO~1.GCO# M190 S60 M32 P !REALPR~1.GCO# M140 S0 G4 S300 M32 P !BULLDO~1.GCO# M190 S60 M32 P !REALPR~1.GCO# M140 S0 G4 S300 M32 P !BULLDO~1.GCO# Ending Gcode runs There would be some other hand coding involved but it's doable IF the gcode commands are supported. You might need a door opener though.

"Angled faces are not sliced properly. There are gaps between layers. Wider gaps as more close to horizontal." That's the nature of FDM printing. The closer you get to horizontal the farther apart the "steps" between layers get. The formula is TAN(90-Angle) * Layer Height = Step Distance. When the step distance gets farther apart than your line width the model starts to fall apart into strings as the steps don't get glued together. It happens on that model because the surfaces have no thickness. On a regular model there would be material below to fill in the gaps. It would still need support though. If you have a surface or overhanging feature that just happened to be 26.565° from horizontal and your layer height is 0.2mm then the formula says: TAN(63.435) * 0.2 = 0.4. If your line width happened to be 0.4 then you need support because the outside wall extrusions no longer touch the one below. Your surfaces are infinitely thin. If Cura doesn't slice right along the plane of the horizontal surface it could be missed and you get what you see. If you play with the "Initial Layer Height" you may find a number that allows the horizontal surface to be sliced. It still won't print as the whole thing is over air and so it would need support.

The 4.x versions of Cura have a plugin in the marketplace for Flashforge printers. I really don't know anything about it but I followed the link for "Ronoaldo Consulting" to THIS GITHUB PAGE. There is also THIS PAGE. When Cura was moved from the Qt5 controls and dialogs to Qt6 most of the marketplace plugins needed to reworked. That may be why it isn't available yet in the 5.x versions of Cura. It's something you can look into though.

It's tough to troubleshoot without being there to see what is happening. I try to explain what I think is going on so the user has a better chance of figuring out the problem. Those feet have very little surface area to attach to the build plate. A brim might be a better choice. You can set the brim distance so the brim isn't attached to the model so well. Start with 0.1 brim distance. I don't recall if you are using any adhesion promoter. A light dusting of Extra Hold Hair Spray can help. I use Aqua-Net. Another thing that can happen is the first layer is too tall because the leveling is off by a bit. In order to get enough squish and glue the filament down you can try setting "Initial Layer Flow" to 105% or even 110%. It's a crutch but it can be a very effective crutch. When you are troubleshooting you don't have to print the whole model. You can tell right away if it isn't what you wanted or expected. Just abort the print, make limited changes within Cura, and try again. As you have noticed, a lot of changes at once and you can't tell what helped and what hurt. Looking back at your very first image I can see that the feet hit the bottom and there is a sharp corner on the inside. If that was a radius or a chamfer they wouldn't be so prone to breaking off. I don't know if your design will allow that though.

You can't copy and paste a parametric model. If Fusion has an "Explode" command you can explode a parametric model and it will become a 3d Solid. You might be able to copy and paste a 3D solid. What you should be a able to do in an assembly file is to copy a part, move the copy off to the side. Set your USC to World and make sure the entire copy is within the +X +Y +Z octant of the workspace. Then explode the parametric model and export it from the drawing as an STL file. There may be options you can set for the export. You want it set it to a high resolution. So long as any of your models is less than 230 x 230 x 250 it will fit in your printer. You will usually want one model at a time. If you want to have multiple 3D solids in a single STL file you will need to make their relationships exactly correct and know which side will rest on the build plate and then make those surfaces exactly planar. Then "Union" them together so they become a single piece even if there is air between them. That will fool the STL export utility. I've been around the block two or three times. I'm not a young man. One thing I know is that it is a very rare thing that the first design is the best design. Most designs need to be tweaked. We used to call it "giving them some love". I tend to make changes to a design while the current earlier design is printing. That kind of sucks. The one printing isn't done yet and it's obsolete.

I have seen some StartUp Gcodes in printer definition files that have the Steps/mm of all the stepper motors hard coded in. For cartesian printers the XYZ really never need to be adjusted while the E steps almost always need to be calibrated. Having the steps re-set on every print seems odd but maybe those printers don't store them in memory. If someone had tweaked the steps to increase accuracy and then started using a StartUp with the steps/mm in it then the tweaks would be over-written when the startup runs within the gcode file. Cura settings like "Outer wall inset", "Horizontal expansion", the new "Scaling factor shrinkage compensation" can have an effect and improper scaling of the model when it comes into Cura can be wrong (nice way to say user error). It sounds like you know that printer inside and out. You may have to tweak the steppers so their travel is correct but when it's set up right it should print correctly. I'm still amazed at the accuracy of my printer. Back in the day I ran a horizontal mill that was salvaged from a WWI warship. What a POS. It would certainly make bigger things and make them out of metal, but accuracy? Ha. +/- 2.5mm was about as good as it could do.

The important layer is the last layer of infill that the roof sits on. Since that layer has always been correct for me I'm guessing that Cura counts down from there and the infill only goes down every other layer so the layer below is empty. That's where the extra material goes. Layer 11 - everything and last bottom skin Layer 12 - everything but infill Layer 13 - everything but with infill at 2X material layer 14 - everything but infill layer 15 - everything but with infill at 2X material layer 16 - everything and first top skin. So the top surface of a layer is where it is. The extra material of the infill drops down to fill the missing layer of infill below. The same trick works with "Support Infill Thickness" for all those inner support walls. If the heavy flow of the double layers of infill/support lines bothers your extruder and it starts skipping steps then you can increase the "Flow Equalization Ratio" to slow the print head down. That will take some of the pressure off the extruder so it can keep up.

In the Infill section is "Infill Layer Thickness". Try setting that to 2X layer height. Then go to the Speed section and change the "Flow Equalization Ratio" to 0%. The infill will go down every other layer, and with no flow equalization the printer will maintain speed in spite of the double layer thickness flow of the infill.

Knife edges and feather edges are always tough because they taper down to near nothing. Cura can't fit the "Line Width" in there and so ignores that area of the slice. There are two new settings in the Walls section that might make a difference. "Split middle line threshold" and "Add middle line threshold". Try setting them both to 50% and see how it does. Load that model and use the Cura "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. Without seeing how you have it set up it's really impossible to tell what changes might make a difference.

Load the model, set Cura up to slice, use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. Without having an idea of the model geometry it's hard to tell what's really going on. These sorts of discrepancies are often associated with the Accel (and Jerk) numbers. Depending on the length of a move, the printer may never get near 100mm/sec. In addition, small features (towers, poles, etc.) can cause Cura to bounce off the "Minimum Layer Time" and Cura will slow the print speed down so a layer has time to cool before more plastic goes on top. At the Ender 3's default acceleration of 500mm/sec² it takes 10mm to get to 100mm/sec and then another 10mm to decel back to 0. So any move that is under 20mm can't hit 100 because it has to start slowing down before it gets to the 10mm point. Consider also that the 20mm movement is "0 to 100 to 0" for an average speed of 50mm/sec. Within the printer there are Maximum's for Accel and Speed. It's possible to ask Cura to set Accel to 6000mm/sec² and it will go into the gcode that way. Then the line gets to the printer and the printer says "No way...Max Accel is 500" and so the Cura time estimate is way off compared to how long the print actually takes to finish. My older Ender 3 Pro will print large flat areas at 175mm/sec (over that the extruder can't keep up). For small intricate models I might as well set it to 25mm/sec because it just can't get up to speed. Enders aren't good at high Accel as the stops and starts are so violent that the machine can hurt itself. So there are limiting factors that go well beyond the settings in any slicer. If you are printing a large square box then you could print it at 100mm/sec and the printer would actually spend time at 100mm/sec. A 10mm x 10mm box you can forget about high speeds as the printer just can't do it. Now consider those who hang a big direct drive extruder and a gigantic triple fan duct on the print carriage. They might need to drop the accel to 150 to keep from jumping teeth on the belt because of all the weight. Finally, your printer is a bed slinger. If the Y accel is too high and your print is tall and top heavy then it can throw the print right off the bed. That has been known to happen.

hallo @StudioL. Sorry for my response in English. "I had always assumed that 3D printers follow a vectorized path and then build up the 'wall thickness' themselves" No, it's the model that determines the Wall Thickness. Cura cuts sections through the model and prepares it's toolpaths depending on what it sees in the sections. If there is room within the model, then Cura can build the number of walls you asked for but if a model is 0.05 thick in the X or Y, and the Line Width is set to 0.4, then the feature cannot be printed as it is too narrow. If that model has some thickness (not made of a single surface that is infinitely thin), then you can scale the model in the "Y" only using the Scale tool on the left toolbar and turning off "Uniform Scaling". Here I changed the Y dimension to 125.

That's the one I use. It has better temperature resistance than the stock tube. I print a lot of PETG and it holds up.

All I see are the class 10 cards. Size matters and a 16gb card would be the highest I would go. 8gb cards are available. The printer MIGHT be able to read a 32gb card. I would suggest getting a card adapter. It only gets plugged into the printer once and after that you can use an easier to handle SD card and the big end of the adapter. I have this one from Amazon.

Line 23 is part of your start gcode. I didn't like it when I saw it but I figured hey, it worked with Simplify3d. It's "M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} T0" Delete the "T0". There is only one bed so there doesn't appear to be a need for T0 and it could be causing confusion in the printer/planner.

"...I think they have a whole department devoted to making things difficult to use..." . Yes they do. A special department for things like "Everybody is used to that so let's change it." and then the supervisor steps in and says "Not enough confusion. Let's move it to a different menu too." The world didn't need anything beyond Windows XP, and Excel and Word 5.0. Enough. The lock fittings that hold the bowden tube in place have little knife-like teeth built in that grip the tube. As the print head moves back and forth on the X beam the tube rotates in the hot end fitting. Those little teeth keep going deeper, retractions and primes push and pull the tube, and pretty soon it's sliding up and down and there is a gap between the end of the tube and the nozzle. Hot plastic gets pulled into the gap and forms a sort of O-ring seal around the incoming filament. Extrusion starts to suffer, but the problem is rarely bad enough to cause missed steps by the extruders. It's just an under-extrusion problem. I don't think I've ever had an actual clogged nozzle. Hot end? Oh yeah. So you need to warm up the hot end to 200 or so, pull the filament, pull the bowden out of the hot end, carefully remove the nozzle without burning yourself (using a proper wrench and not a pair of pliers). Then you can shove a properly sized piece of coat-hanger or bailing wire down through the hot end to push out the plug of plastic that is probably in there. (You can use a 300mm piece of filament as a pusher but you have to move fast as the hot end will tend to melt the pusher piece.) Cut 5mm's off the bowden tube. The cut you make must be as exactly square as you can get it. I use an old heat break from a previous hot end as a razor guide. Single edge safety razors are the best tool for trimming the bowden. Put the nozzle back in. Gently tighten it and then back it out 1/2 turn. Push the bowden in down tight to the back end of the nozzle, then lift the little flange of the locking ring and put the plastic clip in place to hold the lock ring up. Then gently tighten the nozzle that last 1/2 turn to snug it up to the bowden tube. That whole process is regular maintenance. Bowden tubes are a consumable item but they only need to be trimmed back about 5 or 6mm each time. I get about 40 hours of printing before it starts to act up. I always do the maintenance before I start a long print.

That gcode looks good. After the print starts there is one hot end temperature M104 S210 line at line 348 in the gcode. That may be a problem as it does not call out the Tool Number. If you haven't done so, go to the MarketPlace and load the "Printer Settings" plugin. Then quit Cura and restart. Within "Printer Settings" is "Always Write Active Tool". Enable that and try again. I've been assuming that you have two distinct extruders/hot ends and NOT a "multi-in-1 out" hot end. If my assumption is wrong then there are a couple more settings for you to enable in Printer Settings. "Extruders Share Heater" and "Extruders Share Nozzle" are for those "Multi-In - 1 Out" printers like the Geeetech M and T models.

This is from the last gcode file you posted... .... M126 S[fan_speed_pwm] M140 S[bed0_temperature] T0 ..... M104 S[extruder1_temperature] T1 ..... There is a bug in the Machine Settings dialog. After making changes to the StartUp Gcode you must click in the Ending Gcode box in order to save the settings. Then you can close the dialog. No matter which you change (Start or End gcode) if you don't click on the other text box then the changes do not get saved when you close the dialog. There is a bug report for this on GitHub. This started in Cura 5.0 when the dialog boxes were changed from the Qt5 controls to Qt6 controls. So it appears that the StartUp gcode is the same as it was previously and Cura is not making the replacements from "Keywords" to "Settings Values". I think what is happening is that the printer is seeing a line like "M140 S[bed0_temperature] T0" which it can't understand and (in that case) is setting the bed to "0". The same sort of thing is happening to the hot end temperature with that M104 line. You can check that by opening the gcode file and manually changing the lines to "M140 S60 T0" and "M104 S210 T1" and then try printing it again. You can abort after it starts to print.

The model has errors in it but that doesn't mean it has to be scrapped. The errors might be because surfaces have their "normals" flipped or it might have open edges (non-watertight) or it might have holes (like appears to be going on one the ears). Cura can't figure out what is going on so those areas with errors can't slice. You can go to the Cura MarketPlace and load the Mesh Tools plugin. It has analysis capability and a couple of repair utilities that are basic but work for a lot of models. It has other capabilities as well. You can try to fix them in Blender (but I don't know Blender). MS 3D Builder is bundled with Windows and has a good repair utility that runs automatically when you load a file. There are also on-line STL repair utilities like https://formware.co/OnlineStlRepair. Some files just can't be fixed though. At that point you would need to try again in CAD.

Layer height is the Z resolution. Line Width is the XY resolution. Print speed is important but you will be hitting "Minimum Layer Time" and so that will limit the print speed to whatever you have set for a minimum. It might be more advantageous to print 3 or 4 at once. That would allow the printer to maintain something closer to "Print Speed" and allow each of those little models more time to cool. Printing a single model at very low layer height would be tougher to adjust the speed, which determines the flow rate of plastic through the nozzle, and consequently the "nozzle pressure" would be very low. Your flow rate would be in the neighborhood of 1/10's of a mm³/sec. I'm not a Ultimaker guy but that would seem to be a tough rate to control accurately.

Bug reports are made on GITHUB. That 3mf file is a good example so you can just ZIP it and post it along with your video GIF and verbal report. I'm one of the "greeters" there so I'll add a comment and my CAD workup as well.

It looks like you copied that from SimpliFy3D. Cura uses a different keywords and curly brackets. When the gcode is created Cura understands the "M104 S" but doesn't understand the SimpliFy keywords in square brackets. This line has to be hardcoded as Cura has no keyword in PWM. M126 S[fan_speed_pwm] You could change it to M126 S128 and your cooling fan would start at 50% speed. An option would be to remove it and let Cura add the fan lines later. These two lines are wrong M140 S[bed0_temperature] T0 M104 S[extruder1_temperature] T1 Change them to: M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} T0 M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T1 That gcode looks to be for a single extruder print as T0 isn't called to heat up. You might have to make further changes to insure that it's up to temperature for a print that uses it. The Cura keywords are HERE.

With the model loaded select "File | Save Project" and post the 3mf file here. It's the best way to troubleshoot something like this. You can try going to the Mesh Fixes settings and de-select all the check boxes. It could be something like Horizontal Expansion as well.

That will work. You can check Thingiverse.com Have you tried that app I sent? It has leveling commands to send the head around the build plate so you don't have to use the knob. I use baking "parchment paper" as it's only about .05mm thick and nothing sticks to it. A paper store receipt works well too.