I'm not sure how that improves on the existing feeder? Higher torque + single drive wheel == grinding.
I'm not sure how that improves on the existing feeder? Higher torque + single drive wheel == grinding.
The bigger drive wheel has more contact area. Plus it is a straight groove and not a knurl so it has more bite
I am trying out a new feeder design that keeps filament inside the bowden tube. This is my third version and it is working quite well. All my test prints were done with ABS and my next step is to test flexible materials.
Hope this idea contributes to the community and generates new ideas.
Looks nice. Unfortunately for me personally I want to stick with something that allows for a quick filament change, so something with a clamp. Having somekind of indication how much tension there is on the spring is also very handy usually, then its not a "by feeling" thing if you have to modify between filaments (eg from PLA to flex)
Seeing your picture it looks like you press the filament against the bowden tube to get the necessary pressure to transport the filament. Might give problems with less slippery filaments, so I would be like to know how it does with PLA as this is (as far as I understand) less slippery than ABS.
Do like the big knob to adjust the tension, makes it easy to take away the tension completely to remove the filament.
For indication I just measure the lenght of the compressed spring.
I agree with the need for quick change, and on top an open design for easy cleaning is very handy (but maybe commercially not possible due to CE / Safety...)
When I designed this one
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/and-another-um2-feeder-design
I also started with a small piece of tube at the bottom like you did, but decided to replace it by a hole with just a big opening at the bottom for less friction.. Using this feeder up to now without any problems, still happy with it..
Arjan: Makes sense but thats not possible here as the spring is hidden as well behind the front plate.
Here is a photo of the actual feeder in action printing with black PLA filament. So far so good. Just need to fine tune retraction settings since the bowden tube has zero play.
i would not trust that design to be honest.. as soon as higher pressure is needed you are relying completely on the slipperyness of the bowden tube. there is a bearing in very other design i've seen to help move the filament when the pressure is high..
you could change the bearing to a grooved bearing design to spread out the contact area with the filament.
At first glance this looks like Robert's feeder with fewer curves, though on closer inspection I see that you have a separate backplate. I just read your blog about this and it seems that your design goal was that you should never have to remove the motor to service the feeder mechanism. I approve of that goal, but as far as I know it's already true of Robert's design too? E.g. counting the M3 screws clockwise from top right, as far as I know you never have a reason to remove screws 1 and 2, therefore the motor can never fall off.
"This one by Robert is my favorite except you cannot remove the feed tube without removing the stepper motor"
Uhm... yes you can... The only reason you'd have to remove all screws is if you need to replace the entire feeder or replace the motor.
Even if you replace the entire feeder you can do it progressively and swap screws from one feeder to the other to prevent the motor from moving out.
With the V6 version you c an also remove the bowden tube from the feeder.
Without a bowden in there it's pretty easy to remove that, just pry a little
You have to keep the collet down while removing the tube, it is made to prevent pulls
If you just use a finger nail or so to keep the collet pressed against the feeder, the tube should come out without too much resistance.
Removing the collet itself in V4 wasn't really feasible. I had to break the frame to do it but I think that was adjusted in later versions.
Just made a reinforced version of my feeder, adapted for use with my "Ultimaker2 Rail System".
Think colorwise I got my inspiration from "my first sony"
You'll find it here...
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-for-ultimaker-2-rail-system
Not really something to be fitted to the UM2. But are there any 3d printers out there that have used a splined shaft on the X and Y to transmit rotary motion into the print head? That rotary motion could drive an extruder.
I can't find it now, but I saw a YouTube video of that several months ago. Heres a discussion on the reprap forums of something similar, I think: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?14,328288
the splined shafts tend to be spendy, though if a decent sized manufacturer is making a run of 3d printers, they probably can get a good discount. the build it yourself types will have to scavange ebay a bit more to get the same thing.
Or use square shafts and needle bearings like the original poster in your link.
No printers yet, but here's a kit that can adapt the design to UM or UM2 - the Flex3Drive.
http://mutley3d.com/Flex3Drive/
Oh, I know about the flex drive. my thought is something a lot different
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You could do a single drive with a gear reduction while using a knurling tool head.
I'm pressing these onto roll pins.
There is a tube so that you can run a cleaning brush in there and clean off the feeder wheel.
the tensioning arm can be released with a simple over-center arm. Not much for adjustment on the spring of the tensioning arm at this point. I might have something in mind for it though.
The blue wheels are gears, the small one being pressed onto the stepper motor.
I believe the gear reduction is 6.35:1
.375" gear to 1" gear, down to .75" knurl wheel divided by 8mm/25.4 (od of original knurled wheel)
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