cloakfiend 996
That looks amazing for 100-160. I just cant get away with that for organic stuff, wish i could, do you treat it afterwards or are the lines visible but just not on the photo as it looks perfect on the photos?
That looks amazing for 100-160. I just cant get away with that for organic stuff, wish i could, do you treat it afterwards or are the lines visible but just not on the photo as it looks perfect on the photos?
That is really nice! You must have quite a collection already.
@KSN-arts, you can also upload your pictures here.
You have room to fill in all the details of your profile so everyone can see what they want to know.
Also important, after a few more comments we'll go to the next page and just like other uploaded images they are moved to the background.
If we uploaded all of our pictures in the print section even after weeks you'll keep a clear overview and none will disappear in the background or off our radar.
You can discuss the prints in the comment section there as well, or post a link here. (or both).
Hover above 'community' in the menu and select 'print'.
That is really nice! You must have quite a collection already.
@KSN-arts, you can also upload your pictures here.
You have room to fill in all the details of your profile so everyone can see what they want to know.
Also important, after a few more comments we'll go to the next page and just like other uploaded images they are moved to the background.
If we uploaded all of our pictures in the print section even after weeks you'll keep a clear overview and none will disappear in the background or off our radar.
You can discuss the prints in the comment section there as well, or post a link here. (or both).
Hover above 'community' in the menu and select 'print'.
thanks i try yesterday but some strange error not publish
no post work here total 22 part in robot here foto on googl+@ksn-arts: How many hours of post-processing (quite a lot I guess as a normal 0.1-0.16mm print doesn't look as smooth as yours)? And indeed the number of parts it consists of would be interesting...
i use always low speed 35-45 mm/sec and corect temperatyre print/ print of contur and only pla innofil3d 2.85mm for good print.I keep the printer in top conditionThat looks amazing for 100-160. I just cant get away with that for organic stuff, wish i could, do you treat it afterwards or are the lines visible but just not on the photo as it looks perfect on the photos?
I use 30-50 and what i think are correct temps, even at 0.06 and still have lines when i spray paint! I guess you cant really see them until you do your first light undercoat. I find that always brings the lines out.
Even though Id be curious to try some of this innofil3d. when i get my printer ill give it a go. In the meantime colorfabb will have to do until I run out.
good job.
Even though Id be curious to try some of this innofil3d. when i get my printer ill give it a go. In the meantime colorfabb will have to do until I run out.
good job.
i dont like colorfabb i test 5 spol pla...I could not pick up the temperature and speed for my models with high detail...
I also don't like all colours and the green is no good in my opinion for organic stuff, but ok for flat stuff.
Generally i found printing anything at 30mm/s came out great with colorfabb. Some colours are too melty so stay away from them, but the ones that aren't work great. You appear to print very flat stuff with most detail within the panels, so i would have thought colorfabb would have been fine. I also stopped liking the black recently too. as it doesn't acetone as good as some others, or takes far too long. Well i will try some inofill3d but would not normally dream of printing anything above 0.06 as the lines become very visible when painted (thinly) or with spraypaint. You should be able to get away with more viscous paints without any postwork mind you.
@mountainview nice job, i always like seeing the real life practical applications, makes a nice change from creatures & guns lol
@DidierKlein Wow! What material/brand is that
@shurik damn, that is one perfect bleu blanc rouge! 3 parts printed on its side glued together I assume? A really nice touch
Edited by GuestThanks guys. I know all too well what these French are going thru, so a little sympathy won't be bad.
@titus - UM Blue, Colorfabb White, Faberdashery Firetruck Red - Europe united against the terror. :-)
And of course, you got it right how it was printed and assembled.
@didierklein - I live in Israel, heh. Once missed a suiside moron by about 20-30 seconds. In 2006 war, a rocket missed our command post by just a few meters. It's not nice, not at all. From the other side, these cowards only admit that they have no real chance of destroying us. Only fear is their weapon. And as long as this little Ultibot is smiling, they are going to fail.
Edited by Guest@shurik thanks
@DidierKlein Belgian are our friends
I haven't posted or even visited the forums since the revamp. I see quite a few awesome and new products available as well in the store. Anyhow, my original low friction spool holder kind of broke to pieces recently, so I decided to design a new one using iRobert's design as a portion of it. I came up with something I call the UM2 Spool Tool. It can support single or dual extrusion and can hold a tool organizer, while still using the original cut-outs. I am a huge fan of using hardware to attach prints and also of big prints. Hardware isn't 100% necessary, but greatly improves the overall look and feel of the design. Another aspect that concerned me was to get the spool as close to the extruder as possible so the only friction that is caused would be from the filament traveling through the tubing.
Here are some pics:
Nice one did you publish it on youmagine?
Doesn't the roll unfold on the oposite direction? I mean, that could add tension on the last part I think...
You mean that the way it unrolls from the reel, is in the opposite direction of the curve it makes in the tube?Doesn't the roll unfold on the oposite direction? I mean, that could add tension on the last part I think...
Well, the goal was to have the only friction coming from the bowden tube
On the other hand, with the regular set up, the curve is also different from how it uncoils.
Do you notice anything from the friction @chrisp?
What about extending the handle a little bit so the reel can be on the side of the Ultimaker (and turned around) and the curve could be the same?
Here is a link to the animation I worked on last month...all the models were 3D printed or cast from 3D prints I made on the Ultimaker 2 in our office. The landscape is not 3D printed.
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Dim3nsioneer 558
@ksn-arts: How many hours of post-processing (quite a lot I guess as a normal 0.1-0.16mm print doesn't look as smooth as yours)? And indeed the number of parts it consists of would be interesting...
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