This time I tried to print the dragon: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:218026
Still using the translucent blueu filament but this time starting at 230 for the first 2 layers then manually reducing the temp to 222.
This time I tried to print the dragon: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:218026
Still using the translucent blueu filament but this time starting at 230 for the first 2 layers then manually reducing the temp to 222.
looks good. You did print it a bit hotter then the skull right? If so, did the non overhang sections look better?
looks good. You did print it a bit hotter then the skull right? If so, did the non overhang sections look better?
Yes I printed it hotter and the overhangs are far better !
this link I posted earlier is pretty straight forward if you just look at the chromed technique
Even in grey primer, it'd look pretty good!
I signed up for the free 3 day trial and have been watching that tutorial now for about an hour. Soo much awesome information. Will need to figure out a way to grab them for later viewing. Not sure I'll use it as it's quite an investment in tools/paints/etc but I'm getting the itch to try for sure. Great resource (to be expected considering the source).
Ok I finally decided to paint the T-800
I first tried with the gold spray I had and finally bought a few more colors to spray on it !
This is my first painting attempt (except maybe a room wall ?)
let me know what do you all think about it
this is only the first layer.
Ok the last one for today !
Oh, it seems I have turned this thread into the " show us your latest terminator print " thread lol.
jonathan, looks pretty cool
Here are a few shots of the T800 Endo Arm. Prints straight off the printer, done nothing to them yet, I can already see a few issues I may have with assembly. Hmmm maybe i will reprint a couple bits.
Considering the speed and very little patience I had going into this project, I am pretty happy how it looks already Next time I will do a proper job of it !
Maybe this week I will try to get time to prime everything.
This is one of the images I used when doing the CAD work. I need to add those cylindrical tubes which go from the palm of the hand to the fingers... and also find some nice curly wire coils.
Wow really nice job Skint !
A lot of the prints are not too good, only due to me printing everything too quickly. I have to glue / weld the fingers together. They will articulate though so that I can stick two fingers up haha. The blue is ultimaker blue and the black is faberdashery.. I have already bought an extra 2 rolls of the black.
That's looking great! even the one on my desk does not articulate. Are you going to use brake cable or something for the cables?
A lot of the prints are not too good, only due to me printing everything too quickly. I have to glue / weld the fingers together. They will articulate though so that I can stick two fingers up haha. The blue is ultimaker blue and the black is faberdashery.. I have already bought an extra 2 rolls of the black.
Jonathan - that dragon wings came out really great with the transparent blue - they look so delicate!
Hi all, I tried the nice Chocolate Brown Color from colorfabb.
Printed the awesome and well known zombie hunter bust (scaled down to 30%).
Layer height: 0.08
Speed: 30mm/s
Temp: 210°c
Bed: 60°c
Infill: 10%
I wasn't there to check the print, i'm not sure if i had some under-extrusion or not as there as some small lines at the lower part.
Except that it looks awesome, lines are mostly not visible, the details are great, i must try to print it bigger when i have time. It's really a nice thing to print as the STL is very much detailed.
braddock... thanks pal. I`m happy enough with it so far, not sure my friend is going to get it for his birthday anymore lol.
Exactly what I was thinking for the cables... break cable or something similar.
EDIT: Got gored at work so popped out to a bike shop... bought some cable that perfect .. £3.99
Hi all, I tried the nice Chocolate Brown Color from colorfabb.
Printed the awesome and well known zombie hunter bust (scaled down to 30%).
Layer height: 0.08
Speed: 30mm/s
Temp: 210°c
Bed: 60°c
Infill: 10%
I wasn't there to check the print, i'm not sure if i had some under-extrusion or not as there as some small lines at the lower part.
Except that it looks awesome, lines are mostly not visible, the details are great, i must try to print it bigger when i have time. It's really a nice thing to print as the STL is very much detailed.
i did this guy twice now.
first time came out amazing with an ultimaker1 and i placed it on the ultimaker table in germany and 10 minutes later it was stolen.. second time i printed it also with an ultimaker1.. it printed until his forhead and then blocked.. im using him as my piggy bank now ;-)
Ian :-)
My latest print, Fantasygraph's Weeping Angel (Don't Blink)
http://www.makershop.co/shop/fantasygraph/item/dr-who-wheeping-angel
Printed with Faberdashery Architect's Stone.
i love the details on the hands and fingers !!
Ian :-)
Now that I have a 3D model of the missing wheelhouse of my RC tug boat (see page 75), I needed to add doors, obviously.
Just a quick test print to make sure the hinges work fine
Door is 82mm*28mm*2mm.
I should get ABS rolls from FormFutura by Friday(no news from UM the two ABS rolls I ordered with my UM2) and start experimenting with ABS printing.
that is going to be such a cool model when finished.. :-)
Really like what I see upto now !
Can I ask..when you are finished.. will you share your model files with us on youmagine..?
I think it would be so cool to have this boat printed and sitting on the entrance table of ultimaker with all the other amazing models there....
Ian :-)
On an other subject, but still playing with light, I have tried to print a small medal. It came out a bit like watercolor painting, and I really like the result with the light behind.
The original model is really thin and is 12cm wide. I have scaled it down to 5cm to the diameter in Cura so the actual thickness of the building has also been decreased from the original design (around 0.8mm thickness for the front tower, nearly 0mm for the back). Even the cloud on tho is clearly visible.
This printer is amazing!
How did you get the 3d design of the part? It came from a picture? How?
I bought this new spool and didn't know how to make it work with my U2. Then I decided to design an universal support that would fit any spool and position it close to the current U2 spool. I used a 3/4" stainless steel tube that I had at the office and the result was quite good.
Now I am searching for the right size O Ring to fit at the base.
Upper half of my camera body for a SpyCam 808 on my Hubsan quadcopter.
First revision, to check the dimensions and print quality.
I'm happy that the camera fits on first try and the mount can snap into the body of the Hubsan chassis.
Evolution of the part
very creative design.
Are you using an ultimaker 1 or 2 ?
What speed, layer height and temp are you printing at ?
Did you print with lots of support and then just cut it all out with a sharp knife ?
Ian :-)
very creative design.
Are you using an ultimaker 1 or 2 ?
Thanx. Printed on my new UM2.
What speed, layer height and temp are you printing at ?
30mm/s, 0.06mm and 202° (EDIT: 65° bed temp.)
Did you print with lots of support and then just cut it all out with a sharp knife ?
Not that much support material. Printed it standing with the side for the lens to the plate.
I have used "Brim" to be sure it will stay on the bed.
With standing up, I added support in MeshMixer2, here are some shots:
I don't like the smooth shade preview in MeshMixer, so here are two shots in FreeCad after converting it to a mesh:
My first try was to print it horizontal, but there I needed very much support, so the inner surface turned out very ugly.
With standing up the only bad surfaces is the inner shell side, that points down and the "clip". Finished it a little bit with cutting pliers and a knife. Filed it at the faces with support..
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kmanstudios
Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
kmanstudios
I just finished this. It was a multi-part print for ease of painting. Some of it I am not sure what happened...but hey, it is purty....And, I am unanimous in that ? Test Render Parts
gr5
Bath interferometers. I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors. They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester. Th
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skint 61
Didier, haha that made me laugh on a miserable Monday morning
@Braddock, completely agree with you on those terminator skulls, that`s one reason why I have not printed one of those myself yet, I was intending on remodelling one myself.... but now I will wait for your masterpiece
Have finished printing the majority of parts of the t800 endoarm, will try some assembly tonight and post pics if successful !
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