Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[stu_le_brew 42]

Hi Nils

customised belt driven filament feeder (click here), I2K, plus a mod to direct more of the back fan at the teflon coupler, ColorFabb PLA. Printing at 218 and reduce the fanspeed down to 50%ish

The most important thing seemed to be adjusting the stainless bit (under the teflon) to be almost fully down to the Olson block, I think this lessened the heat loss from the end of the print head.

hope this helps

Edited May 31, 2015 by Guest

[NBroenner 7]

Hi all,

today I received my Olsson Block, but the installation was not as easy as I thought. I also installed an I2K. After the installation I noticed that the fan shroud touched the noozle / block. Therefore I have detached the fans and printed an adapter https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-original-fan-duct-extention. Now the fans can be attached again.

@swordriff and others: Can this be a solution to the problem with the fan kick in too fast (100% start) resulting in a heater error ?

Man the 0.8 mm noozle prints pretty fast at 0.5 mm and 50 mm speed :-).

Regards,

Nils

Edited June 2, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 2,172]

@swordriff and others: Can this be a solution to the problem with the fan kick in too fast (100% start) resulting in a heater error ?

 

Yes! That was the problem for me at first. But you can just rotate the isolator nut (the round nut with the holes in it that raises the nozzle up and down) until the block no longer touches the shroud.

[gr5 2,172]

[DidierKlein 729]

For those interested i made a tutorial on my website with two step by step techniques to change the block to the awesome Olsson Block

English version

French version

Feel free to give me any feedback if you spot errors!

[ultiarjan 1,223]

@DidierKlein I'm always in favor of promoting the block

I would advice option2 (without the fan shroud replacement)

Unscrewing the hot-end-isolator with the PTFE coupler (the Teflon) in it as you do in option 1 (so only the screwdriver in 1 hole) can damage it easily.

It's better take take the head appart, take out the PTFE coupler, and than unscrew the hot end isolater using a screwdriver that goes trough the holes, so it will have grip on 2 holes at both sides of the hot-end-isolater and always heat it before unscrewing.

And it would be more clear to make a separate instruction for the replacement of the fan shroud, as for the installation of the Olsson block I would opt for option2, but leave the fan's on the fan shroud.

Last thing it might be more clear to use the same naming for the parts as used by UM, f.e. you call the hot-end-isolator a steel coupler

[DidierKlein 729]

Thanks for your feedback

The english version has been translated by me from the french version, it's true that the names are not always the same, i will correct that.

For the option 1, i will add a warning maybe, i've always done the option 2 but i thought that this way was also possible, i'm not really aware of a weakness in the steel coupler but @swordriff told me the same.

About the fan shroud, you don't think it's a good idea to change it?

[chrisw 70]

For the option 1, i will add a warning maybe, i've always done the option 2 but i thought that this way was also possible, i'm not really aware of a weakness in the steel coupler but @swordriff told me the same.

 

It's interesting to see your Option 1 version. So far I've only used Option 2. The part that I'd worry about with #1 would be getting the threads started, making sure they're straight. When there's no spring pushing down on the coupler it's easy for my fingers to feel whether or not the threads are turning freely onto the block's threads, or if there might be too much friction because of a cross-thread. In option #1 the spring might obscure that feel I would worry.

I'm confident in using just 1 hole on that steel coupler to adjust it a bit after it's all assembled though... like when making adjustments to add the correct spacing between the block and the fan shroud for example. Maybe I'm just too lazy to disassemble the whole thing again (I do have an extra steel coupler from UM sitting in a drawer just in case I bust it, though)

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I also need to turn the hot-end-isolator with a screwdriver just in one hole when leveling my dual head setup... but they get damaged very easily and are not cheap ... so option 2 is just playing it safe

[DidierKlein 729]

I have to say that option 1 was done on my Go printer which has a fair amount of printing but not as much as my UM2. The coupler was easy to turn.

On my UM2 i remember that it was kind of stuck and that i needed to heat to make it loose.

I'll add a warning, i also think that the second method is better, but you have to dismantle more.

Thanks for your feedback

For the fan shroud you don't have any heater or temp sensor error with the original one? It does touch the heat block if you don't have an I2K that needs the coupler to be tightened at maximum ?

[NBroenner 7]

@DidierKlein At first I would like to thank you for your guide. I used it and the video from 3dsolex to install the block. During the installation I had some issues with the precise distance of the parts of the printhead (mentioned in an earlier post in this thread).

I think it would be a good add-on to your good tutorial to discripe the distance (milimeter / turns of steel coupler...) between the parts (with / without the I2K) in detail. I am a visial person therefore i would suggest the picture @gr5 posted before and make a little table (with / without the I2K).

I did replace the pt 100 temperature sensor, because I did not get the sensor out of the stock block and did not want to damage it. I can supply you with some pictures for the installation of the temperature sensor, if you want to add this to your guide.

[DidierKlein 729]

Changing the temp sensor with pictures would be an interesting addon you can send what you have by email: didierkl@hotmail.com

Thanks

I will try to do something with that picture it could be usefull and more clear indeed

[NBroenner 7]

 

@DidierKlein You got mail :-). Hope it helps.

[NBroenner 7]

I don't know if anybody has noticed it, but why is the drill for the heater in the stock block deeper than in the olsson block. In the stock block the start of the heater gets placed right beneath the hole for the fillament. In the olsson block the heater only reaches until the screw. Has this been done on purpose ? If yes, why ? I am a bit curious :-) .

[swordriff 119]

The heater will not get stuck in the Olsson block so easily!

No...

They should be equally deep.

Could be a manufacturing glitch in the standard block or in the Olsson block.

I wanted to post an image put just cannot manage..

Edited June 3, 2015 by Guest

[Anders Olsson 136]

Here is the picture:

The holes on the original and the Olsson block are equally deep, as swordriff says.

The reason why the Olsson block is slightly longer is that there needs to be space for the nozzle-thread. This meant that I had to move the heater and the sensor slightly further away from the filament hole and extend the block a little bit.

[NBroenner 7]

@swordriff: I did not say that the heater got stuck, no I could insert the heater and the temp sensor as far as it should be according to the picture of mr. olsson.

@anders-olsson: The last paragraph stated the cause for the different layout. Thanks.

Edited June 3, 2015 by Guest

[Labern 774]

@NBroenner

There may be a burr on the inside of the hole where the counter sunk securing screw goes, stopping the sensor and element from reaching the end.

[NBroenner 7]

@labern: I removed the screw and the washer before inserting both, so no blocking. I also ensured through the holes which can be seen on the picture of mr. olsson, that both items are right there where they should be.

Can the difference to the stock block be a change in the design, because my um2 is brand new and I already noticed a difference in the back of the fan shroud compared to some older images.

[swordriff 119]

MOVED TO 3dSOLEX INSTALLATION SUPPORT

Nils! There could be manufacturing glitch in the standard block or (aouch!) even in the Olsson block. Can you measure the depth of the holes, please?

If you feel uncomfortable, Of course I will ship you a new block. But it is no point in it if the hole is right.

Thanks

Edited June 4, 2015 by Guest

[NBroenner 7]

@Swordriff: Relax There is no problem and the olsson block works very well. I could install the heater exactly as deep as the red cylinder in the picture of mr. olsson.

The stock block hole for the heater has a depth of approx. 16-17mm and so the start of the heater reaches nearly the middle of the fillament hole.

So again no problem on my side. I was just curious of the reason for the difference and @anders-olsson explained it: It is because of the thread for the exchangable nozzles.

[izzy 33]

Nice render Anders, what software do you use? 8)

[NBroenner 7]

For all followers of the Olsson block who also use the Tinker firmware:

If you don't want to work through the whole bed levelling wizard after each nozzle change:

It turned out that the function "Adjust Z position" (a submenu of the expert settings) works pretty well for this purpose.

It's still importand not to forget this step... :roll: - but it works a bit more "straight forward" this way.

 

I am using the Tinker firmware 15.0.3.1 with the olsson block. Can anyone provide me the offsets for the different nozzles like on the little instruction sheet which came with the block ?

Thanks,

Nils

Edited June 5, 2015 by Guest

[izzy 33]

Hi Niles,

I think you will find that this will vary between machines as the nature of the bed levelling with the three screws allows for a lot of variation with the range.

I must admit It would be nice to be able to have a position readout for the Z height that could be then used for offsetting, perhaps the programming Gods will enable it in a future version of Cura, I will sacrifice a glass of milk and a cookie to the God of Cura programmers for this under maintenance 8)

[Anders Olsson 136]

Nice render Anders, what software do you use? 8)

 

That picture is just a screendump from an ancient version of Pro Engineer, so nothing fancy at all