I can change those values on the CURA SETTINGS....
will it work?
Yes, that would be good to do if you move the nozzle over. But those numbers are only used if you are printing multiple objects in "one at a time" mode. That makes sure the head doesn't hit the previously printed object while printing the next object.
GR5: Sadly, the model is not placed on the middle of the printing area...
Less fluctuations with 35W heater.
When you reduce temp after 1st layer for instance, the temp
does not drop so far below your new target since the 40% harder heater
kicks in harder.
On the upside there is no such effect.
Those are Awesome new Swordriff!
is the U2 Motherboard designed for that amount of watts?
ALL changes to the original UM2 has the potential for killing the warranty if not the printer.
The motherboard of the UM2 is one of the parts which has the least amount of trouble, not that there is much fault elsewhere. It is usually the user who messes up. We (users) cannot agree on one single filament to use, one speed, one temperature , one model to print etc.
Consequently, the number of possible configurations is practically endless.
I have never heard about anone destroying the printer by changing the heater or temp sensor.
I HAVE heard about a number of users destroying the temp sensor when changing the hot end block, while removing the sensor from the hot end block. This happens when changing the hot end for a new or when changing to an alternative hot end like the 3dsolex one.
The ultimaker 2 mainboard is a clever design. There is an inherent power "load balancing" in play, which allows for quite freely use of power unless over a combined maximum.
A 35 W heater will not kill the PCB. There are some users who use 40W heaters, who need to print at 295 C etc with fans.. Then 40W is the only way to go. For this there is a change of firmware too, to allow 295C (300, in fact is the max).
The 40W heaters are quite expensive because there is such a high energy density. The hole and cartridge need to be very good fits, or the heater will not get rid of its energy and tries to destroy itself.
Some standard heaters are only 18W, but most of the Um2s have 21-25W and you will not notice the difference.
Edited by Guest
4
Hello Forum!, i've been printing for a while with an Olsson Block, and i want to update the information and share my experience with this upgrade ( I TOTALLY RECOMMEND IT)
after getting the Olson Block, i experimented a temp error because in this block, the nozzles is more influenced by the side fans, plus the weakness of my Heater Cartridge, it other words, it was unable to deliver the amount of energy required (above 230 C), usually wen having the fan at 100 %. Following the advice of many people in here, i got convinced to change the heat cartridge to a more powerful one (35 W) i was kind of sceptic, because I'm very careful with electronics ( one error and that'S it).
so far everything is working just fine, theres a few remarks:
A) theres some little fluctuations in the temperature.. (-+ 1 C), thats not so dramatic...
B) if you're printing lets say at 215C, and you want to go to 210 C, the temperature will go for a few seconds below 210 C (say 204) but it will recover quickly and stabilises at 210 C, and stays so.... the other way around, i haven't seen any strange behaviour.
C) i just got Once the Temp error, i was testing the configuration and i turned the temp to 260 C and fans 100 % Suddenly (usually i don't print anything above 235). so thats also NOT a big deal...
I'm really happy now, ill keep you informed about my experiences...
Edited by Guest
3
I was to lazy to read those 60-something pages and decided to go the easy way and just ask ...
If I understand things correctly (well, there's a certain possibility I did not), the UM2 uses a 24 V 4mm heating cartridge. The olsson block has a bore for that cartridge (same size as the alternative version from solex3d, optionally with 35 W).
Can the block be drilled to 6 mm so that it could take standard 6 mm cartridges?
(Which are widely available (40 Watts? No problem ...) and cost about a tenth of what UM would charge for the 4 mm cartridge)
1
easy way answer: NO 
bit longer answer, there's not enough material, if the block would be big enough for a 6mm heater it would be impossible to fit into the original metal fanholder. E3D now has a UM2 adaptor for there v6, it takes a 6mm heater and the PT100.
Edited by Guest
1
Thank you very much. I mean it.
Would you happen to know the height of the block?
I did not find any measurements at 3dsolex (and here, I actually did look for them), and it'll take a few days for mine to arrive ...
The original block is 5 mm thick and the Olsson block is 5.5 mm
You could actually check page 2-5 of this thread. There were a lot of discussions about the dimensions of the block early on and gixxer had a similar idea to what you are suggesting (and I explained why that will not work with the original fan shroud).
You'll like it, I think it's the best upgrade ever, as you have some time still read the installation support pages.... make sure to keep some space between the block and the metal fan holder, print the torque wrench and make sure to tighten the nozzle while it's hot.and it'll take a few days for mine to arrive ...
1
jens please mark what country you live in on your profile settings.
The wattage of the heaters that 3dsolex sells vary about +/- 2Watts so if you wanted say a 37W, 3dsolex or certainly I will be happy to search through a batch of them and send you the highest wattage one we can find.
These cartridge heaters are always in danger of destroying themselves if you don't remove the heat fast enough.
"make sure to keep some space between the block and the metal fan holder,"
Better yet, eliminate the metal fan shroud, and print one of those on Youmagine designed for the Olssen block.
jens please mark what country you live in on your profile settings.
The wattage of the heaters that 3dsolex sells vary about +/- 2Watts so if you wanted say a 37W, 3dsolex or certainly I will be happy to search through a batch of them and send you the highest wattage one we can find.
These cartridge heaters are always in danger of destroying themselves if you don't remove the heat fast enough.
Thanks for that offer. I'm going to try out the stock heater first and see if I run into problems ...
(Just in case, info added)
35 watt heaters are On the edge.
If the screw holding it does not press it against the wall, it has difficulties as pointed out by the 'old-boys' in here.
Same if you put it in the standard block and the hole for 4mm heater is largish, usually the case. 50 -100 mikron is already largish
I made the mistake of recommending to wrap the heater in Alu foil to make better contact in one case. Bad idea. Everything fused into Alubrassine.
The 4mm heaters are hard to manufactiure. Even in big qty they cost 15 dollars and are still untested.
Making the hole in the Olsson block bigger does not work, unfortunately. Heat transfer problems and other problems too.
Today, as temperature outside is 37°C I stepped down into the basement where my UM2 is waiting in a 21°C cool room for its Olsson block for quite a while.
Disassembling the old Ultimaker heater block was not really funny. I hardly could get the stainless steel coupler away from the heater block. Finally with heating up, WD40 and a bit of force I got it away (fortunately I ordered a spare at UM).
This is what my teflon isolator and the heater block looked after over 1200 hours of printing 
The crazy thing is that I still got excellent prints with this coupler!
The temperature sensor slipped easily out of the old heater block and it has quite some space inside the Olsson block. That's why I put some copper grease (should be stable up to 300°C) around heater cartridge and temperature sensor.
After assembling I realised that the original duct touches the Olsson block on the left. As an quick solution I put some ceramic tape in between which seems to do the job: no temp sensor error occured.
And this is what it looks at the moment (E3D nozzle mounted, new stainless steel coupler, new teflon with I2K isolator):
1
...
This is what my teflon isolator and the heater block looked after over 1200 hours of printing
The crazy thing is that I still got excellent prints with this coupler!
...
Mine looked the same after much much less printing. It's not really an issue as long as the lower hole doesn't get to tight.
(Yes ... I want to be quoted with that line.)
Edited by Guest
2
It's not really an issue as long as the lower hole doesn't get to tight.
As you wish
1
The new version of Cura (15.06) no longer has the Nozzle Size option. Can someone please explain what settings need to be set when printing with different nozzle sizes. Is it "Wall Line Width"? anything else?
As I understood it, it's the Wall Line Width, yes. I thought about that too... Do we Olsson bros need the nozzle size as an extra setting?
When I wanted to print a vase or something in spiralize with .8mm nozzle and 1.2mm wall, I used to set nozzle and shell thickness to 1.2 in old Cura. The Olsson block manages the overextrusion very well. This was a hint from Didier Klein here.
To get the bottom of a vase watertight, UltiArjan found out to set the nozzle size a bit lower in order to get the printlines of the bottom closer together. Then receive the required wallwidth through increasing flow.
All these parameters can be twisted in the new UI, if I got it right.
On the other hand we talk about overextrusion, so I'm confused, too...
Where are engineers when you need them?
You have to set all the line width options to the nozzle width if you want to have consistent results (well, you may forget about the support line width if you don't have support). If you e.g. leave the infill line width at 0.4mm and print with a 0.8mm nozzle you will maybe get a strange infill. Let's assume 100%: Cura would extrude only half of the material needed for a proper 0.8mm infill. But the spacing would be 0.4mm instead of 0.8mm. So the total amount will be the same. But your infill lines will most probably be a sequence of over and under extrusion; nothing reasonable. This doesn't take any non-linearities into account which will make it worse.
Of course there is the trick with overextruding e.g. on the first layer to have a water tight layer.
Hello! I've got the I2K Chip for the olson block, i've readed the web page, i understand that the Chip has to be inside the Stainless coupler, and between the olson block and the PTFE... thats clear... the part is not clear for me... after assembling, the Stainless Copuler must be all the way down or not?
Hi Esteban,
I have approximately 1mm (1.15mm) gap between the bottom of the stainless steel spacer and the Olson heater block top face, I have been printing this setup for a few months now no problems.
With the I2K spacer between the stainless steel spacer and the PTFE coupler, I have a gap of 2.3mm between the top face of the SS spacer and the mating face of the PTFE coupler.
I was going to add a photo but can't find the icon anymore.
Hope that's helpful, Izzy
1
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Less fluctuations with 35W heater.
When you reduce temp after 1st layer for instance, the temp
does not drop so far below your new target since the 40% harder heater
kicks in harder.
On the upside there is no such effect.
Edited by GuestLink to post
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