mastory

I would say that heating my print chamber made a marked improvement in limiting warping on large PLA parts. I am not heating the whole printer, only inside. I wouldn't recommend heating the entire thing as it would be likely to overheat the electronics with additional heat. My crude system is made up of a hair dryer, a water heater temperature switch to switch it on and off and a large oven bag. The switch has an adjustable temperature setting. It is kind of crude, but even this setup was an improvement.

As the title says. Just now, my Ulticontroller stopped recognizing my SD card. The card is still readable on my PC. Did a Win disk error check that came up clean. Recently, I have had to reboot the UM after I plugged in the SD card in because the LCD would scramble. This happened a few times in the last week. Happened tonight. Now it behaves as id a card is not inserted when there is one. Until recently it had been working flawlessly. I tried to gently flex the little spring fingers on the socket for better contact with the pads on the card. Cleaned the SD card copper pads with a pencil eraser . No luck so far. Are there any common failure modes for the SD card socket? Any ideas on how to troubleshoot the issue. Repair ideas? I think I'm going to be looking for a replacement. Anyone have one to spare. I don 't think I'll have much luck getting one from UM at this point. Can anyone recommend a 3rd party developed one. I can't bear to run the machine without a card reader. Thanks all

Thanks Torgeir. This made it work for me.

I looked up the system requirements for Cure which specifies OpenGL 2. My graphics cards supports OpenGL 4.1 which I would assume would be later and inclusive of 2.0. I'm thinking this wouldn't be GPU related since I have been running earlier versions of Cura 2 including the latest beta

Previously I had the 2.3.0 beta running. I uninstalled that version, deleted the remaining pluging folder as well as the Cura2.3 folder. The last image on the title screen says "loading scenes" or something similar. Then the process closes. I am running win7 64b. Anyone else have a similar issue?

I'm an UMO user, so I am not exactly familiar with the UM2/+ feeders. I would assume there is a set screw holing the drive wheel on? You might try some loctite on that screw, possibly adding another set screw at 90 degrees + threadlocker. Would hub-locking compound be helpful? I don't know if gluing on the hub would make disassembly/maintenance otherwise difficult, but Loctite makes a number of semi-permanent hub locking solvents that would essentially make the hub connection rigid. Something like Loctite 648 might do it. I might be interested in picking up a used UM2+ if you're selling. If so, PM me what you want for it. May also depend on your location.

Please accept my apologies. Deleted comment reflected old information. See the video below instead.

Thanks for the info Cato. Don't know how I missed your reply earlier. I'm moving forward on this.

I'm following here. Probably won't make it into the test group (answered the questionnaire though), but intend to upgrade my UMO to dual extrude with the collective knowledge that will be gained. If possible, I'd like to contribute. I will be needing 2 identical print nozzles. I am currently running a custom hot end, but also have 2 unused 3mm non-cartridge UBIS hot ends on hand. I could either duplicate my homemade nozzle, or use the 2 UBIS hotends. Either way I have to customize the tool change hardware. The UBIS parts would be a more elegant design. Also their capacity to heat quickly would be a benefit to dual extrusion. I did a search of the old UBIS discussions, and don't find any long term testimonials there on the usage. For the last year or so, I have been printing mostly with ABS, and I want to be able to continue this with the requirement to also print PLA+PHA and others in the future. Is there any experience with UBIS ends with ABS, PLA, and of course PHA? I understand that replacement UBIS 3mm parts are not available and am keeping this part of my consideration. Would my concerns be better addressed with a Olsson, E3D, Merlin or other? My existing one off hot end is working well in the above scenarios, so I am equally prone to go that way... Thanks as usual. Matt

Common vacuum forming. Pretty light duty and limited usage I'd say. I hope they aren't charging more than a $150.

Glad to see you active on the forum again Daid. Good to know that about Win10. I'm still on Win7, and not anxious to move forward. I will when I get pushed I guess. Thanks Didier. I ran that msi, and it gave me exactly what I was looking for! Matt

If I understand correctly what you're saying, the problem you mention already exists. If you choose 'touching buildplate' or 'everywhere' it is universal for the whole model (according the overhang settings ofc)? I don't think my suggestion would have any effect on that. What I'm suggesting would only add an additional filter to limit the supported areas. A good usage may be 'everywhere' plus limited areas per the user preference. I suppose you could add a second or third sketch plane and place support only in the intersected volumes, but it seems overly complicated.

Support is often only needed in certain areas of a print- maybe only one side, or only an isolated tricky area. Currently, we can only specify to add support over the entire model, or not. I am proposing that a tool could be added to the Cura interface where the user draws geometry on the the build platform. Rectangles or circles would be good. The user could then tell Cura to only place support either inside or outside the specified geometry. The resulting support would be according to the existing rules (overhang angle, all over, touching buildplate) in vertical zones defined by the geometry that would run from bottom to top of the print. Matt

It would be very helpful to be able to see previews of the model files as I filter them through windows explorer. Is there already a Windows plug in for this? If so I haven't been able to find it. I'm sure the other OS's would appreciate something of this nature as well if it doesn't already exist. This could be bundled in with Cura for some added value. Might be good for cross marketing to non-UM 3Ders too. I don't think they have anything for this either. Matt

Would like to add dual extrusion head changer to my UMO...

I want to replace the structure portion of my UMO Z platform with a metal plate with flanged style linear bearings found on the later printers. I have a home built heated bed that I am happy with and do not wish to replace it. I will adapt it as required. Also happy with the Z-nut and screw. Where can I buy a metal plate and bearings to fit into my UMO? Does the UM2 have the same guide shaft centers and diameters as the UMO? Do I need to change out the Z-nut and screw? If there is something available for purchase, it would be much easier than building from scratch. Thanks, Matt

What I do instead of something like the Filcatch is just add a couple lines to my start gcode that causes the nozzle to drag across the build platform at the start before printing. At times, I have placed a small ridge of painters tape to drag a cross to shear the the excess plastic from the nozzle on the way. Something like this (for UMO) at the very end of the start Gcode moves the platform back to the nozzle at X=5, Y=5, Z=0. From here it goes into the sliced model Gcode which starts at the same level thereby dragging from 5,5,0 to the beginning of the print. When the print starts, all the boogers have been left along the way. and the nozzle is clean. ... G1 X5 Y5 Z-15 F9000 ;drag nozzle G1 F9000 M117 Printing...

Can we regress that change please Yes, Please. If possible the nozzle size also has a lot better function for me in the Quality settings.

The thickness wasn't an issue for me. My syringe is sort of large, maybe 50cc or more. I think the tip is maybe 3mm inside. I think I mis-spoke on the previous page - you need corn meal/flour, not corn starch to mix with the rtv. There was some discussion on this in another thread - https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3839-the-physics-of-cooling?page=3

The "deepest" setting is the correct one. If the deepest setting still has it's function (which tends to use the value of the parent), it's updated automatically. If you override it with a fixed value, changing the parent won't do anything for that setting. If all children of a setting are visible and overriden, the parent setting also becomes disabled to indicate that changing it does nothing. This is hard to understand wherever contradicting settings overlap. It would be good if you could somehow indicate which setting is in control more clearly. Maybe its more of an issue with the intuitive interpretation of the settings by the user...

Rowiak, I had great success with high temp automotive silicone See the boot I printed on the previous page. This was made with a reusable 3 piece mold from printed PLA. Corn flour (I finely ground corn meal in my coffee grinder instead) was added to help the silicon cure in hours. The mix was then injected into the oiled mold. Cured in a couple hours. Has served for years. I dont understand the chemistry, but the corn flour somehow alters the moisture in the RTV causing it to cure fast. No expensive silicone compounds required.

I had my share of trouble with the UMO feeder. I've been running the Geohagen feeder upgrade trouble free for over 4 years. You can find it on Thingiverse. Mostly it can be built with parts you already have from the original feeder. You'll need to source a custom feeder wheel and a bearing or two. I made my own feeder wheel, but they were available commercially. Not sure if they still are.

Did anyone catch if it can be printed through a bowden tube?

I made a silicone boot for my one-off heater block and nozzle. Mine was intended for containing heat but it turned out really nice. I built a mold out of pla printed parts. I lubed the mold with olive oil and use high temp automotive silicone RTV (the red kind generic brand seems fine) for the boot itself. I found instructions for mixing cornstarch with the silicone to cause fast curing. It has been holding up to the heat for over 3 years. I think it took a couple hours or less to cure. I used a syringe to fill the mold cavity. Looks like I could use a sock too.

Please. I depend on being able to go back to a previous version when things don't work as well as expected in the current version. I would think in the case of Beta versions, you would be more careful not to corrupt the function of previous installations while testing. Now that I have this Beta loaded, can I expect my 2.1.2 to work as before? Is there a hidden configuration error waiting to pounce on my earlier installs when I least expect it? That aside, I am very impressed with the slicing speed. Keep up the good work! Now that the slicing is so fast, maybe a little more graphical info could be conveyed in the slicing view. I print solid prints about half the time. Sometimes I turn the model so the infill is going a certain direction on a particular layer (for various reasons). With the print traces shown full width, and touching each other, it is difficult to tell which direction the fill is going. Maybe the traces could be delineated with a margin, or maybe a gradient shading across the trace? Maybe the slice view could be toggled to show only the vectors of the top displayed layer? Thanks for everything. Matt