mastory

I would think this is feasible, then again, I'm not a programmer. I would like to be able add cooling towers to the build plate from the slicer interface. There could be a option add a tower, maybe a diameter selection. Once added, the tower could be dragged around the build plate to the users preference. The height of the tower could be automatically the overall height of print objects, or configurable. Maybe the tower XY area (therefore print time) could fluctuate to maintain a minimum layer time. You might print the tower at a slower velocity just to occupy time, and at the same time use less material... Wanted to throw the idea out to see what others think. If I recall, feature requests are best made on Github. Don't remember my password there and not inclined to deal with that atm.

maybe an ultrasonic bath?

Actually my reason for wanting machine settings back is not about octoprint.... but more about f.e the ability to change the dimensions of the head..... yes many people still experiment..... Amen!

I like it. Been thinking for a while, why can't 'external support' be used inside a model for quicker printing? This could save considerable filament and even better alot of time. An angled support structure inside a model could save even more. I don't recall what the new Cura calls the tapered support, but that is already implemented for external support. Why not make it possible inside a model?

In my experience, offsets to internal hole diameters to get them to print accurately are variable with smaller holes requiring a larger offset. I have only been able to get them accurate by trial and error. on a 3mm hole, I might offset that ~.75mm larger. On a 25mm hole, the offset may only be ~.2mm. At some larger size I assume no offset would be required. It may not be a linear function. I doubt that the offsets built into a slicer are smart enough to achieve this. You would need to develop a scale for each different material (roll?)

Layer previewing is important to me as well. I concur on the other comments about the 2.1 layer view generation being slow. That said, I really like all the many ways I can tweak the slicing in the new software as well as the new tools; tapered support, support roof, and my favorite alternate rotation of top and bottom layers. The benefits outweigh the problems in my opinion. What I would like to see improved in layer view is that on solid layers, it is often difficult to see the travel direction for the top and bottom skin lines. I will generally rotate my model on the build platform to optimize for bridges, but with the layer graphics as they are currently, I can't tell which way the lines are going on a specific layer without a tedious effort scrolling up and down thru the layers of concern.

Is there any play in the nozzle mounting to the XY gantry?

I rarely use an emoji, but using non-standard ones sort of violates their purpose as universal symbology IMO.

I can't find any pictures of the fuzzy skin. Can someone post some pics?

I am printing models that are challenging the repeatability and size accuracy of my UMO. To achieve accurate dimensions in the XY plane, I generally scale models up for shrinkage factors. In my experience, the shrinkage factor has less of an impact in the Z direction due to consistent resetting of position on each subsequent layer. Bear in mind that I am often printing with a .2mm layers with an .8mm nozzle for speed. In my opinion, 2 other aspects control final Z dimensions to a greater degree. The first is the amount of 'squish' on the initial layer. The first layer may be targeted for any particular thickness, however after the squish, that first layer may will differ depending on the machines setup, usually thinner to some degree. I would like to see an offset feature to somehow compensate for this often thinner first layer. The offset value would have to be the result of print tests, and would require a strictly controlled physical machine setup. Secondly, often models do not slice to an whole number of layers equaling the total height of the model. i.e. As I understand it, when a model has an overall height of 5.7mm, and the slicer is set for .2mm layers, the slicer will slice the model with 28 .2mm slices, and will not print the final .1mm of the model. In this example, I would like to see the slicer slice perhaps 25 layers at .2mm, and slice the final .7mm as 4 layers at .175mm thick totaling the full 5.7mm. Any thoughts?

This may have been obvious to some, but I had to figure it out. The PauseatZ plugin inserts some positioning instructions per the inputs in Cura, and then adds an M0 command. The M0 pauses and waits for user to press controller button. I need to tweak it a bit, then I post it in youmagine.

Some background: I am trying to make a calibration print that involves printing a series of small 1 layer parts, pausing to allow adjustment to the machine, re-zero and print the same parts again with a X position offset. Repeat a few times to allow fine tuning. The print result will be a small array of discs near each of the leveling points. This will be a tool to fine tune Z leveling and Z switch position. I recognize that to do this, I am going to have to manually edit the gcode to reiterate the parts copies with position offsets. To get a Gcode as a source to start with, I want to set Cura up to slice with some basic settings, and to pause after the first (and only) layer is printed. I have attempted a couple versions of Cura, the latest of which 15.04.4. I have been unable to identify what codes are inserted into the Gcode to trigger and release the pause. From searching the code, I'm not sure anything is being inserted. The 'pause at Z' documentation I have found is not highly technical. Can someone shed some light on how 'Pause at Z' works with more technical detail? Am I trying to do something that is not permitted by the way the plugin works? Is there a preferred Cura version, and PauseatZ version that I would have better luck with? For reference, I will be running this on my UMO. Thanks.

It looks like your problem @ooper is a rubbing belt. Is the dust on the motor rubber? Watch the belts as the axes move and see of they are rubbing. It looks like there are 2 'piles' of debris, each lined up to a side of the short belt. I think your top pulley (directly above the motor) is not properly aligned the the pulley on the motor. The opposite edge of that belt may be rubbing on the lower pulley. If I am right, you'll need to use an allen wrench to loosen the set screws on the pulley and shift the pulley so it no longer rubs. This problem should probably have been its own post since it appears to be a different problem than @danilius

Do you oil these bearings periodically? It is recommended to put a couple drops of lite oil on the shafts. I use sewing machine oil about every 5 -10 hrs of operation. There are rows of recirculating balls inside of those bearings. In extreme cases, the balls will scar the shafts in lines if they aren't rolling properly. Do the shafts show any scars, grooves where the balls run? Its stuff to check out. It may be possible that your bearings are shot. If you replace them make sure the shafts aren't also damaged.

@foehnsturm & @thefrog, Loctite (Henkel) make a variety of shaft locking compounds that should be far more than adequate for the torque these hubs need to handle. 638 comes to mind, but there are many options. If removal becomes necessary, add 250C heat. Otherwise, silver solder is also an option for metal hubs, sufficiently strong and easy to join.

Sander, The problem I was experiencing with constantly logging in was that I had not checked 'remember me'. I have now checked it, and when I re-opened the site in a new browser instance I am logged in. I think for the button should say, "Keep me logged in". "Remember me" to me implies that the browser will be asked to store the password, which is something I never choose on any website. I guess it is a non-problem of misunderstanding, or interpretation. Matt

The login period timeout for this forum is too short. Other forums that I belong to go months without requiring re-login. This could be silently deterring more comment posts... Unrelated (and very minor) nut poor graphic design on the UM main page. The *.gif there needs should be edited to take the black blip out when it gets to the end and repeats.

Not too many people talk about hair spray, but I have found it to be great on heated window glass. Good enough that because I tried it first, I have had no inclination to try ABS slurry or glue sticks. Just lightly spray a clean piece of glass, allow to dry, and heat to ~70c for PLA or ~100C for ABS. Parts release when the glass cools. Its simple. I don't understand why more people aren't using it.

Sorry, I didn't read your initial question thoroughly. I misunderstood the symptoms

There is an aluminum extrusion company Maytec, which is base in Germany I think. They have connecting hardware that utilizes cross drilled holes on the ends of the extrusion and innovative fasteners that pull the pieces together. This results in very rigid and square (as square as the cuts allow) connections. If I were to build a printer frame from extrusions, I would look into this style fastening system.

Could this also be caused by a stuck Upper Z switch or shorted circuit for that switch?

I have had this on hollow parts too. I don't have a solution. For some reason the slicer decides to make travel moves across the opening. I can't see any reasoning for this since its a single island model. What settings would cause the slicer to cut across the center? Is combing turned on for the LH print and not for the RH?

Is it too late to be involved with the closed Beta? Do you guys have any timeline goals to get toward the next official release? Thanks for the hard work. Looking forward to trying it out.

Sounds like a work-around for bad mechanics. Sure, programming can compensate for bad mechanisms, but it is really a band aid for the real problem. It would add unnecessary complexity and thereby more stuff to break/malfunction. Why not just install a proven feeder design that doesn't grind the filament. There are proven designs available.

Skip the automatic run of Featureworks, and first run 'Import Diagnostics'. If you can repair all the errors found, then run Featureworks. If Import Diagnostics can't repair the model, you may be able to fix the models with some other program. Maybe try exporting to some other format and then open and save that result as a step and import...