SandervG

Do I see it correctly that it broke exactly in a corner? Perhaps it could be interesting to take some of @SteveCox3D 's design for additive manufacturing tips into account and instead of the 45º (?) corner add a radius. It may help even out the stress on that point, and you might get more strength. Although I believe they always test these measurements with these dog bone samples, which have a more evenly distribution of force. With your manual test I think the shape of the model also influenced the breaking, so that may also be why you didn't reach it's full theoretical strength.

Hi everyone, After some evaluating and reconsidering of the user levels I've decided to make a few changes. Members who have a post count of 500 posts or more are automatically labeled as 'ambassadors'. This will change into 'Experts'. I've found that the title 'ambassador' implies a certain relation to the Ultimaker brand, which a simple metric as post count does not always ensure. I think it is safer to say that everyone who has been around long enough to reach 500+ posts has (developed) a certain level of expertise though. It also matches our community identity better; 'Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts'. Doesn't mean you won't see any ambassadors anymore. On the contrary. However, this won't be the result of an automatic process anymore. Every year or so Ultimaker has organized an Ultimaker Community event where we invited community members from all over the world who made significant contributions (one way or another) to our community. We do this as a token of gratitude for their efforts, it also allowed them to get to know the company first hand, and allowed us to get to know our users personally. Moving forward the community members who have made such significant contributions to our community and, if possible - met us, will still be recognizable with the beautiful title 'Ambassador'. If anyone has any questions about this feel free to get in touch with me!

Here are two relevant topics: Pricing out prints and hourly rate

I don't think you want to go too slow, for bridging and overhangs you want to have some speed. But also sufficient cooling, therefore it is better to keep some speed and lower the temp a little bit. Very curious to hear more about that board game of yours ?

Hi @mmoerders , thank you for your post and welcome to the community! I see you already discovered the most basic way Cura can help you with this, as it tells you how much filament your model uses. If you go into Cura > Settings > Extruder > Material > Manage materials; you can add the cost of your filament. Then Cura will not only tell you how much cm it uses, but also the costs. In theory, you could add some extra money to this to cover for any future expenses. If you do a lot of print jobs for customers, you can keep these extra costs relatively low and spread it over all customers. If you don't have that many paying customers you could add a relatively higher cost so he covers most of your potential damages. An Ultimaker with a heated bed uses 200W of power with the heated-bed enabled. Electricity costs somewhere between 10 and 20 cents per KiloWattHour (depending on where you live). So running the UM2+ costs between 2 and 4 cents per hour, or between 48 and 96 cents per day. Hope any of this helps!

Thanks for your entry @ultiarjan, looks good!

Not bad @kmanstudios ... not bad ?

Hi Tojiero, thank you for your post. In order to help you I have some more questions for you: Could you share a photo of your print, please? Do you have retraction enabled? And are you able to tell us if that print had full default profile from Cura or did you make changes? Have you always printed with PLA, or also abrasive/high temp materials? Have you ever replaced any parts (like a TFM coupler or something?)

Hi @tojiero, welcome to our community! The first 2 messages you post will need to be moderated by a moderator to make sure you are not a robot or spammer. Only then they become visible for the public. Our apologies for the inconvenience. Since you've passed the 2 post count you should now be able to post freely. Regarding your question, you should also be able to count on your reseller for support. Whether or not you are under warranty, you should be able to count on our network to give you technical support for as long as you use your Ultimaker. But we're also here to help ? I've seen your other post, and I'll take a look! Regarding replies, you can check out your notification settings and set them so you will receive an email when someone replies, if they don't do already.

Hi @Raghav, thank you for your enthusiasm, that is wonderful to see! Don't let your enthusiasm forget about some of the rules though, if you want to increase your chances of winning. In the rules in my first post: '- One set should contain a minimum of 6 different models'. Your first entry consisted of 5 vehicles, and you've just uploaded 3 separately. I would recommend to re-pack them in 1 set and submit it to honor the rules ? (You can edit your first post with the zip file, and replace it with a new zip file.) Thanks! This theme will run for a period of 3 weeks; until July 9th.

Hi @Ghene , thank you for your post. Sorry to hear your print came loose from the build plate. It sounds like you already reached out to your reseller/support team? I would also recommend to do the same. Especially if they're in the opportunity to come over. If it is a PLA print, hopefully you'll be able to peel most of it off, and your print core is fine.

Afhankelijk van het formaat van je juwelen, is dit wel te 3D printen. Sowieso 3D modelleren, wellicht vergt dit wat oefening. Als je heel kleine gedetailleerde modellen wil printen, zou ik aanraden een SLA of DLP printer te bekijken. Meest bekende is waarschijnlijk wel FormLabs. Je zou ook FDM kunnen proberen met een 0.25mm nozzle, maar dat zou echt afhankelijk zijn van je ontwerpen. Qua FDM is er een materiaal beschikbaar wat boetseerbaar/makkelijk bewerkbaar is genaamd 'Skulpt filament'. Wellicht de moeite om daar ook eens naar te kijken.

Yep, I've been able to extract the STL files too, thanks @Raghav for submitting your entry! ? I see you've also added a 3D printer stl and a house for example, I would like to highlight that for this contest we'll be only looking at vehicles. Feel free to submit more entries if you want. If you do, keep the 'design for 3D printing' in mind. Try to reduce the number of overhangs and intricate parts, while maintaining a recognizable, appealing and perhaps functional form. Good luck to everyone!

Ha Marco, wat wil je maken? Een 3D pen moet je echt zien als iets voor de lol waar je niet echt accurate of functionele dingen mee kan maken. Ik weet niet of je dingen die je daarmee hebt gemaakt wil herproduceren via lost wax, maar in theorie als je er gips omheen giets en daarna weg brandt dan zou dat met PLA wel moeten lukken. Wat ook in een 3D Pen kan. Maar als je iets fatsoenlijks zou willen maken, zou ik wel een 3D printer overwegen. ... zoals een Ultimaker ofzo ?

Not really. The NCF chip in the Ultimaker filaments communicates with the NFC reader in the reel holder. It helps to avoid any confusion about what filament is on your Ultimaker, and it automatically loads the designated profile. On a distance you can also sync Cura to the configuration on your Ultimaker. This works also if you don't have NFC chips because it syncs to the (manually) selected material from your Ultimaker, but I think it is a nice feature so I wanted to bring it up anyway ?

I believe data transfer via USB - computer is much slower compared to an SD card. That is probably where your lag is coming from when your print is finished, and leaves your nozzle on the print. I don't know if, because you print via pc, if the gcode ignores/misses any post processing scripts that would move your print head out of the way. But I would recommend to print via SD card. It ensures a faster data transfer, and it is more stable where you don't have to worry for your PC to not go into sleep mode or crash or anything else. Hope this helps!

Very nice! Do you also have some images of you using it?

Hi @ArthurG, welcome to our community! Since we have a bowden tube system using a flexible material like NinjaFlex is not super easy, but it is doable. We support for example printing with TPU 95A which is also pretty flexible. In between the Ultimaker S5 and Ultimaker 3, I don't think there would be much difference which would handle flexible filament better. If anything, the Ultimaker S5 has a flow sensor which could detect if there are any filament issues could be handy so I would vote for that one. But that doesn't directly help with printing flexible filaments.

Hi @InfernoVortex, I'll move your thread to the Cura sub-forums, where I think you'll find more help. Which version of Ultimaker Cura and the firmware are you running?

Thank you for your input and taking a moment to participate in the survey Eldrick!

Ok, good to know you found the cause. What have you been printing with it mostly? PLA? Any idea how many hours it has been running?

Also looking at that Stanley cup above I must say, you have your Ultimaker dialed in sir! Well done!

the fact that I have to ask but.. are these 3D prints or renders? I see some light surface structure but veeeeeery clean prints! How big are they?

Succes! Ik zit net even mijn reactie terug te lezen, en zie dat ik 'niet' ben vergeten in dat je de tape 'niet' moet laten overlappen. Onhandige typfout, excuus. Achter dit randje zou de nozzle of je eerste laag kunnen blijven haken en dit zou een goede eerste laag in de weg kunnen zitten. Als je nog vragen hebt verder, foto's helpen altijd!

Volgens mij is het advies 0.2mm, je zou er een velletje papier onder moeten kunnen schuiven met lichte weerstand. Ik begrijp dat 'lichte weerstand' ietwat subjectief is, maar wellicht heb je er wat aan. Het is alweer een tijdje geleden dat ik met een Ultimaker Original geprint heb, maar zit er niet leveling hulp in Cura? .. even gechecked.. als je in Cura een Ultimaker Original toevoegd, vraagt deze eerst of je ook een heated bed hebt, en daarna 'Start Build Plate Leveling', dit zou je moeten helpen. Probeer de stukken tape niet te laten overlappen, en op elke hoek met dat stukje papier even voelen of de afstand goed is. In het begin is dat even aftasten, maar je zult heel snel herkennen wat de goede afstand is.