peggyb

am I the only one (then it must be something in my computer??) youtube movies look like this: [media=9927][/media]

just updated to Safari 9.0.2 and still the same..

mac 10.10.5 and Safari 9.0.1

no, all the topics that show up with a bar on the left are unread entries, and opening while clicking this bar should lead to the newest unread item, but from today, they open at the top of the page. The feature did work as it should before, and don't know if it is just me...

that happened here as well lately, but not always... More irregularities: I read the topics list, all the new entries, but now it does not take me to the 'unread' line, but the top of the page..

I didn't use it myself, but beware that the glow fill is VERY abrasive. It can wear down your nozzle real fast. I hope you already have an Olsson Block so you can change nozzles or you have a spare printhead. That's what I've read.... So this would explain the rough texture.

it looks like you used a raft or support at the bottom, like your bottom layer did not touch the glass plate.

eine Schichdicke von 0.02 ist viel zu dünn, versuche mal wie @niyoki sagt 0.1 mm. Kleiner wie 0.06 ist kaum zu sehen, aber dauert viel länger.

and what are your first plans? besides a pen plotter...

it looks like the material package is abs+dissolvable, so when one of them runs out, you can ditch the rest as well... I heard similar complaints of other closed source printers about their material cartridges: the material length before a print is calculated, but when the print is aborted, the chip does not account for that. So in the end the chip thinks the roll is finished, but it is not.. I think a lot of users here are capable of getting similar results as the Mojo when you understand and tinker with your printer, but sadly education is a target for their market.

assuming the tightening of the screws are done well (check with a drawn line over them with a pen) you can also check if the fan underneath the electronics board is running. If the fan does not run you will notice already in the second layer the print can shift.

wow, this is a funny (bad) way of comparison: the Mojo costs $6,900, each color costs $ 399 and has the build size of an Um2Go.... The test prints of the Um looks like they come from a bad calibrated UmO and printed without support... http://www.amazon.com/Mojo-Professional-Printer-Starter-Package/dp/B00T8O7C50

nice! so far, sliced with the new CURA 1.99, like the top layer possibilities, in this case concentric. printing with PET atm, also looks good,...so far...

here it is: http://web.media.mit.edu/~achoo/polar3D/camready/manuscript_iccv.pdf this is the press article: http://news.mit.edu/2015/algorithms-boost-3-d-imaging-resolution-1000-times-1201

or on the design side: come up with something to print for demo's / give-aways. Print time under 20 minutes, something else then the flex-bracelet or keychain..

It's better to watch the first layer, so you can adjust some things if necessary. When the 'rippling' starts it will continue and only by adjusting it will change. By gently pushing the bed from the top or below you will see if the bottom layer improves or not. After that you can turn one or more of the bed screws underneath the bed. Large surfaces are hard to get smooth! But if you get your leveling worked out and your nozzle clean on the outside it might improve a lot.

diversity is always good, to see that every one can participate, things I can think of: -understanding of combining codes; change layer heights, infill, etc in one code for getter and/or faster prints, detail and speed combined. -how to use the pause function; possibilities, functional, design, etc. -combing different materials; in one print, or assembling afterwards.. -resume failed prints or intentionally resuming a part (different than pause) -using a second printhead for a different material (for all those who buy the upgrade kit, but already have an Olsson block..)

doing a test print now, fingers crossed

it's done! there was a lot of blue stuff inside the bearings, but I guess they need some lubrication. @neotko: maybe the bearing are not great quality, when cleaning I could still feel some irregularities moving the rod in my hand with the bearing. Did you try to put some weight on the bed close to the bearings? @2Go: surprisingly the last screw of the electronics board was the easiest... this was the only one where the metal spacer came loose, and it is so much easier to assemble it from the outside then this fiddling on the inside.. Hope everything helpt...

thanks for the detailed explanation, this gave me the courage to start... as suspected, the left bearing is the worst, still working on that last screw...

great, maybe I'll dive into that as well......

this is a lot! don't you mean 1-2 mm?? The z-motor/leadscrew won't allow this amount, unless the problem IS the z-motor/leadscrew. 1-2 mm is the amount of the play from the z-nut. Do you also have a little play in the z-nut? (grab the end of the table and lift it up) like this:

hope this helps!

wow, your going all the way!! I didn't come this far, gave up before dismantling the electronics board... I assume you grab the rods inside the printer and try to turn and push them down, but it looks like a really tight fit... Started also on the top but that means all the walls come loose and stopped there. Let us know how you are progressing, I am really interested!

in my case it is the bearings (I am sure). At certain spots they don't slide down by themselves, and because of the play in the z-nut, a few lines are printed on the same height, until the z-nut picks the bed up again. This results in a thicker rigs in the print followed by a thin sparse layer. I could simulate this by pressing by hand under the bed during a print, simulating the obstruction of the bearing, the same ridge on the print appeared. If your bearings are fine, the bed just slides normally down. On my 2 UMO's with heated bed there is also a little play in the z-nut, but the bearings are fine. On one UMO the bed slides down by it self, but the bed of an UMO2Go is much smaller and does not have the weight to slide down. I have to put a lot of force (close to the end of the bed) to get it up and down.