peggyb

I bought 3 of them (for 2 printers) to have a spare one if tolerances where out of spec., but they were all great. Delivery costs are ok because you can ask for an untracked envelope. http://www.technobotsonline.com/tr8x2-travelling-nut-for-threaded-rods.html

you can do this in the 'machine settings'. There are the sizes that the printhead including the fans are, and the bed size. You can check the differences between machines. Be careful with adjusting.

are you sure your rods are straight? If your bed is not flat it shows in the first layer, but will correct itself on the next.

euhmm,..... ordered the bushings, delivered two days later and delivery costs € 0,00.....

the dye only works with nylon (Dylon, never tried it with pla though, but don't think it works) and of course it works better with 1.75 filament, because the color can get better into the surface and the inner material. With 2.85 the core will always stay uncolored. Or do you mean some other dye?

does it stay that way if you leave it on? most of the time it settles after a few minutes, or tapping the bottom plate might help.. It is a familiar thing... some worse than others.

when you do the 'loading material' routine, do you wait until the filament comes out of the nozzle? Assuming that you've gone through this already: 'change material' : the filament runs backwards, out of the printer. press 'ready' and load the new material in. The feeder motor turns slowly inwards so it can grab the new filament, let it pull it in for 1 cm or so. It helps to cut the tip of the filament in a pointy shape. press 'ready' again and the filament will rapidly move towards the printhead, followed by a slow moving. Let this go on until the filament comes out of the nozzle. This also helps when changing colors, let it run until the old color is out and the new shows up. press again and confirm the material setting, and choose your print. If no molten filament comes out of the nozzle and you hear a 'tock, tock' noise from behind, then it is blocked somewhere. Sometimes a little piece of filament stays behind when doing a 'change material' causing a blockage in the printhead.

the new clamps work! I was just in the process of changing, so just in time, could use the new clamps. Works great, thanks!

expert settings--> skirt 0

first layer with thicker nozzles is more difficult and needs some practice to get it right. Try slowing the first layer down and the leveling of your bed and the 'first layer height' might need adjustment. While the brim prints, gently push/pull the bed by hand to see what the effect is: better or worse for up or down, and dial the screws accordingly. Always watch he first layer and grab the loose stuff with tweezers so it doesn't melt to your nozzle, was that the case in your picture?

we love results! and pictures! it is nice to have a forum that shows good news too....

hoffentlich kannst du english lesen? and check if your z-nut has any play. Changing to a proper z-nut can fix your problems. If the z-nut has some play and the bearings 'hang', you will get banding. You can simulate this by pushing a little underneath the bed when the bed moves to the next layer. The next layer is printed on the same height as the former layer due to the play of the z-nut, until the end of the play is reached. Or the bearings 'hang' all the time and drop at a certain point. I think you can have crappy bearings with a good working z-nut.... I bought some at http://www.technobotsonline.com/tr8x2-travelling-nut-for-threaded-rods.html

there is a bolt on the bottom back of the platform, I guess this one triggers the z-limit switch, maybe a longer one? Could this work?

I don't have S3D (yet), wanted to see how the new Cura evolves

do you have pictures??

did anybody try the setting 'wire printing' yet? it is hard to predict what it does because there is no preview... just trie to find it out, I guess, but there are so many settings..

by scaling it down this far there will be some holes in the wings and 'tail' because parts are getting too thin (below 0.4 mm) to print...

yes, that is a complex print at that size! what are your support settings?, click the little box behind the support type

try slowing it down, you mentioned it is a complicated print, can you show a picture?

what is your main speed? The first layer is by default always slower, 20mm/sec.

the difference could be that the speed you set as print speed in the basic tab (how fast?) never reaches its max. speed because of curved or short distances (is it a complex model?) The supports are long straight lines where the set speed can reach its max. Could this make the difference?

yes, I had the same experience, ended up looking for a counter pressure to keep the nut in place while pushing on the bolt on the other side. So something with a flat side as big as the nut. And an extra set of hands would be helpful.

in the advanced settings you'll find the speed settings. Best is to set them all to 0: infill/outer/bottom etc. Leave (bottom) first layer like it is. Is it the print speed you want to reduce or the travel speed?

and check if your z-nut has any play. Changing to a proper z-nut can fix your problems. If the z-nut has some play and the bearings 'hang', you will get banding. You can simulate this by pushing a little underneath the bed when the bed moves to the next layer. The next layer is printed on the same height as the former layer due to the play of the z-nut, until the end of the play is reached. I think you can have crappy bearings with a good working z-nut.... I bought some at http://www.technobotsonline.com/tr8x2-travelling-nut-for-threaded-rods.html

look in the machine settings, but beware of the clips and the head hitting the sides, if you change something there. But did you reach your max. in y yet?