peggyb

Nice! I would like to see you, but I didn't get an invitation......:( Sure hope to hear something about this...

Hallo Kees, zelf geen ervaring mee, maar ik heb ze wel regelmatig zien printen, en dat ziet er goed uit, elk jaar op de RapidPro staan alle printers daar altijd volop te draaien. Zelfs de optie voor 2 materialen ziet er goed uit, en werkt ook. Misschien iets om rekening mee te houden, als er al meer printers aanwezig zijn, de Builder werkt met 1.75 filament, het lijkt me lastig/onhandig om met verschillende filamenten te werken.

other safe metals that don't break are: acupuncture needles, wires of a metal brush (brass, steel) binder strips for garbage bags

set the skirt and brim to 0.

don't forget the sticker!

This was not my project but a former colleague, we worked together in a private makerspace that had to shut its doors last summer :( He worked on it for about a year, with other projects as well, but it is still not finished... I had to take 'him' to a lecture and just strapped him in the carseat. No idea if somebody noticed it, had to keep my eyes on the road....

keep going on!! it is nice to have some company......

mit ein scharfes Messer so viel wie möglich wegschneiden, schleifen macht weiße Flecken. Mit Fett oder Öl einschmieren.

do you have some play in the z-nut? grab the end of the bed in the back and lift it.

Did you clean the rods and do they move again? A thin oil like bicycle/sowing machine oil should work fine, Apply the oil, move the head around in all directions and remove the left over oil, especially if this turns black.

Judging the fail in the last picture: the 2 pieces on the outside came loose from the bed (right?) Dial the screws underneath the bed a quarter up when the print starts with the brim. Want to be sure the prints stay on the bed? Tape the brim to the bed (duct tape or any other wide tape) Don't press too hard on the bed or it will ruin the layer being printed. Keep your nozzle clean on the outside as well, when it is dirty as in your picture it starts to drag other debris around. Just wipe it clean when hot with a rag or paper towel (if is is warm the paper sticks to the nozzle)

another way to print solid is to set the shell thicknes to 100 or so

have you tried to look underneath the printer if the panel where the wheel is attached to can be shifted a little? because: is the hole in the wheel off centre or is the placement in the front panel off centre?

there are different solutions to get this right: •play with the cooling settings, maybe add the 'cool head lift' in the expert settings. •print more than one using the 'print all at once' under tools. •add support, check the layer view which the orientation suits you best, rotate the model to get the best support •rotate your model until the top surface is horizontal and use support pictures help to get this right!

you can check the outside of your nozzle, even the slightest scratch or burnt residue can influence the surface. And this is probably Colorfabb? Always feel that it prints more 'fat', less 'crisp' then other brands, but this may depend on the type of model, speed, temp, etc...

yes it does, but you have to mirror it (Cura can do that)

try setting the infill to 24%. It looks like less material but both directions are printed in one layer. At 25% directions are printed every other layer.

or it has to do with the difference 24& or 25% infill behavior (in combination with speed)

hallo Bert, voor onderdelen in Amsterdam kun je terecht bij print3dmatter in de Ferdinand Bolstraat. Hij zal het ook moeten bestellen maar dat gaat meestal vrij snel. Wonderlijk genoeg komen de onderdelen voor Nederland uit Belgie, van Trideus...... beetje een omweg...

you can try the 'cool head lift' in the expert settings. this lifts the head away from the print at the last layers to cool the plastic. There will be some strings but they are easy to remove. Or print two (or more) next to each other with "print all at once' from the tools menu, like @neotko says.

it's hidden anyway, unless your model is really translucent. Then it useful to tick the 'infill prints after perimeters' in the expert settings. And you could experiment with your temperature, trying a bit colder, so the nozzles oozes less. But be careful for under extrusion.

This is a another idea of using 2 printheads: https://markforged.com/mark-two/ for making strong parts. Different approach, but interesting.. the first head is used as a normal fdm print, printing a base structure (in nylon) and leaving some open space for the next printhead: carbon fiber, fiber glass or kevlar. But this second printhead doesn't change the size of the filament, it uses the real diameter and just melts this one into the open spaces. This way the characteristics of carbon fiber keep their long/strong shape, the fibers are not 'chopped'. Their (browser based) software calculates what the best place for the fiber filament is.

this is from travel moves from hole to hole. The nozzle does not lift or retract and the oozing material hangs on the infill on the travel path. In the layer view you can see them as blue lines.

The layers are there , Cura only shows the top ten layers accurate (as a brighter red outside color, the infill also disappears in the other layers) If you position your model flat and scroll through the layers you will see that every layer is there. The choice of rotation to print your model will influence the print quality, this model can be printed both ways. If you print this laying down the domes will have visible lines, steps, showing. When printed sideways the dome can be very smooth, depending on your layer height setting; a 0.06 layer height is very fine, 0.2 is course. The difference between the to is that the top appearance will always show the size of the nozzle, were the sides can be adjusted with the later height. Print it both ways and look at the difference....

a higher infill will be better, it is not very hard to remove, there is a gap between the model and the infill. Only the top will 'fall' on the infill and leave little scars after removal. When the print starts to bridge over the infill you can slow the speed down manually, and when it's done return to normal speed. It is a small print, so maybe check your cooling settings, the fan should be on full when the bridging starts.