peggyb

Was thinking about that also, but did not know if you could handle this Can you see in the layer preview if it is working? (it should)

spiralize only works with solid models, and will also destroy your lamp holder. Spriralize can only spiral one outer wall, and you model has an in and outside wall.

leave the screw like this, it triggers the lower z limit switch. There ia a corresponding hole in the bottom of the printer. Great that it prints well now! Other than moving the platform with Pronterface (is the difference in sound gone now?) you can move the platform by hand. Grab it at the back and slide it up and down. Do you hear or feel anything strange?

draw a line with a markerpen over the pulley and the axis, all of them. This way you can check if one of them is slipping. "nacheinander Drucken" is the best setting, you loose only the last one, not all of them

can you show us a a picture of your model, that would help in explaining.

I think this is a new idea of using 2 printheads: https://markforged.com/mark-two/ the first head is used as a normal fdm print, printing a base structure (in nylon) and leaving some open space for the next printhead: carbon fiber, fiber glass or kevlar. But this second printhead doesn't change the size of the filament, it uses the real diameter and just melts this one into the open spaces. This way the strong characteristics of carbon fiber keep their shape, the fibers are not 'chopped'. The machine itself is a beauty, magnetic build plates, good design, machined components, looking real yammy.....

Can you describe your routine at start up? Did you remove the filament and inspected it? are there holes in the filament and does it have a regular toothmarks pattern? Does the filament go the nozzle all the way when inserting?

notice there is a difference in wall thickness in a cad drawing: this defines what the model looks like in measurements. Then you will export the model as a stl, which is only a description of the outside of the model, like a balloon is the skin to keep the air in. In Cura you decide how to build up your model with strands of molten plastic, size 0.4mm for walls, and lots of other settings like layer height, speed temperature.. So in Cura wall thickness means, how many strands of 0.4 mm do I need to get my necessary wall thickness (a multiple of 0.4). Thinnest wall is 0.4 and from there on 0.8-1.2-1.6-etc., with 0.8 being the standard thickness. When printing a 2 mm object, means you will end up with 2 strands of 0.4 mm (0.8 total) next to each other all around and an empty space of 0.4 in the middle. It is not necessary to print models totally solid, a wall thickness of 0.8 is really sturdy. Take a look at the https://ultimaker.com/en/tips-tricks to get more information about printing.

look at the store from @gr5 http://gr5.org/store/index.php/1-75mm-filament-products.html

and remember when you have the 2 fans installed you have to pay attention when printing more items with 'one at a time'. The new fan is probably going to knock hit earlier print, unless you always keep this in mind or change the size of the printhead settings.

and try a print with 24% infill, it looks less material, but the infill is printed in both directions on each layer.

I believe it also works for Windows with itSeez3d: http://itseez3d.com/realsense-windows. The colors of this program are better than the Skanect, but the file handling is different, look carefully at the requirements (i use apple) you will need a different camera/scanner. What I like about Skanect is that it streams the files directly to the laptop, as for itSeez3d it stores a preview first and when you have an internet connection it will up/download the full scan. To get the scan out, you can mail it or share it on Setchfab.

use the slider on the right and pull it to the first layer, Cura shows the first 10 layers accurate and the rest as a 'preview', bottom and top layers disappear to get a good view for these ten layers.

yeah, the sound of a printer is better than any other lullaby!

try another thing: set the infill to 24% there is a change in infill behavior between 24% and 25%, were at 24% each direction is put down on every layer, so the crossings of the layers are double. At 25% one direction is put down every layer, it looks more dense this way.. Unless there is a reason for it, I usually use 20% or so, or less. For strength I go for thicker walls first, but this depends on your model and the use of it of course...

try a print with the Infill-Top-Outer-Inner, set to zero. This way all the speeds are the same and will print more even. These settings will get the same value as the print speed.

youtube movies show ok now. plz fix 'go to unread replies bar' !!!

the problem is that to have different speeds. Try to set your speed settings for: Infill, Top, Outer and Inner to zero. Then all the sections will have the same speed as your 'print speed'.

can you take a look at your speed settings: first - expert - full settings second - advanced - what are your speed settings?

the difference between the Kinect and the Structure is that the Structure uses the position of the scanner, the movement control from the Ipad. This way it is easier to walk around a person and scanning all the details, like underneath the chin, with the Ipad. The Kinect gets confused real easy if the Kinect moves, therefore it is easier to put the Kinect on a tripod or such, and have the person rotate. But it is harder to scan top of the head and underneath the chin like this. And to get a full body, because you need more rotations to get the whole thing.

it can go really high..... once I had a group of students and a printer went like crazy... They had been playing around with the controller, just turning the knob, apparently, on the start of the print, but because the first layer is slowed down, it didn't change much. On the second layer the print got crazy: they turned it to 800%....

before yesterday it worked, and now it doesn't... Even if I was still using Safari 9.0.1, that should continue to work also, it is not ancient... (9.0.2 doesn't work as well) Also OSX 10.10.5 is not outdated... I always wait because I want all my programs to function, and usually there are some problems with a few of them when a new OS is out. Clicking the black bar on the left in the topics menu to go to the 'unread' bar, was the best update to forum made after the big change... But, if it is still just me, nobody else complains, how did this happen and hoe do I solve this?

in Firefox everything works as it should, but I use Safari all the time....

you did ask this already . Safari 9.0.2

On the print head the blue light has to be on, really crucial... and the 2 wires in the little green block fastened well, check those, they are very thin an can loose their grip. There are two white connectors: black/red are from the fans, and a 3color connector from the heater block. This one can wiggle itself loose during printing, so keep an eye on this one. There is also a spare wire, not connected, can be used instead of the other 3colored one, but change the other end at the electronics board as well when switching those. Remember the wire colors and check if they are all ok at the electronics board.