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peggyb

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Everything posted by peggyb

  1. I hope that replacing the bearings will solve this, because even with the weight on I can see a faint line at the same spot on all prints. And I don't want to carry that extra weight on a portable printer....
  2. oehhh, with two snowflakes the whole country here is in a panic.... (NL)
  3. when I lift the bed up by hand you can hear a crunchy sound at a few places, like there is sand in between and harde to push... I was looking to get them out, but that means getting the bed out.... and that means taking the whole thing apart?? Do the rods go out from underneath? Everything is soo tiny and close together on the UM2Go...
  4. Tried this tip, but it did not change a thing... the screws on the rods don't anything because the rods can't move, and the others are from the z- motor, and my problem are the bearings, I guess..... video on this page: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18335-uneven-layers-although-i-print-at-1-mm-i-am-still-able-to-see-every-layerhelp-please?page=2&sort=#reply-129323 This is a combination of the play in the z-nut and some friction in the bearings. When the bed comes to a spot with friction it lifts the bed up until the play of the z-nut drops it again. To proof this I put a weight of about 500 grams on the bed and printed the same file again. right: without weight, left: with extra weight.
  5. the play is in the z-nut on the bed. Did also try the advice on this page: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=last#lastreply to loosen the screws on the bottom, but that didn't do anything. This is a combination of the play in the z-nut and some friction in the bearings. When the bed comes to a spot with friction it lifts the bed up until the play of the z-nut drops it again. To proof this I put a weight of about 500 grams on the bed and printed the same file again. right: without weight, left: with extra weight.
  6. peggyb

    Bounce

    only if it works! when going to other forums and seeing the 'suggestions' underneath and thinking: this is not what I was looking for..... Being a bit sceptic... because the search function is not optimal.... (carefully expressed)
  7. gr5: do you mean this? on my new UM2Go, I had banding from the start, after cleaning the rods it got a little better but there is still something at the same spot. after cleaning the rods: before cleaning the rods:
  8. you can also set the flow to 105%, that is what I always use.
  9. wire of a metal-wire-brush, works very well. Did try a small reamer once, but they brake real easy, so don't use these...
  10. I loosened the screws of the side panel a bit (not all the way!) to get the white cover out, and don't forget to tighten them again after installing... Roberts feeder works great on the Um2Go as well, it is a bit cramped with the filament reel covering the latch, but you'll get the hang of it. Print also Labern's cable retainer: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cable-retainer-for-roberts-feeder And also the carry handle: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2go-carry-handle
  11. can you check if your fan is running on the bottom of the printer? It should start when you turn on the printer to cool the electronics board.
  12. I have 2 UMO's, so swapping is a good idea. It is not the gcode/sd card, because the print finished fine on the other UMO.
  13. any ideas? is this the board? It is strange that all motors/steppers are involved, so it must be something different. Or is the ulticontroller to blame, or cables, or.......? Would this mean a new electronics board? (expensive) this one is still a 1.5.4 version, and if so, can they be swapped easily without special 'somethings'.....
  14. when the brim is done, tape it to the bed with ducktape or blue tape. When it starts curling it does not function any more, air creeps underneath and the curling gets worse.
  15. yes, the fan is running underneath, did have this problem a year ago... but then it does not return to to right position, it just prints shifted. just started a new print, same issue, triggered it after I wanted to decrease the speed by turning the controller. Even the bed/z drops now (at 0.41)
  16. My 4 years old UMO is having trouble lately, after performing really nice over the past years (same quality as UM2) This time only 25 minutes into a print it goes off.... The printhead leaves the print in the X and/or Y direction (random) and comes back to and resumes the print. Even the material feeder gets involved, it spins back and forth, and resumes... So every motor, except the Z, gets crazy..... What is this??? This happens almost every time now, sometimes a print finishes perfect (all same gcode), sometimes it starts after a few hours. I can touch the motors by hand, they are hot, but not untouchable, underneath at the electronics board there is nothing hot, I put the UMO on empty spools to lift it from the table. Once I triggered the runaway printhead by pushing the controller button. A sign that things are off can be seen in the controller: if I wanted to start a new print, the screen stays empty only showing 'main:' or not being able to reach the 'print from sd' menu.
  17. Kan het zijn dat dat je even geduld moet hebben bij de start van een print? Normaal wordt eerst het bed verwarmd en daarna pas de nozzle. Dus even wachten tot het bed op temperatuur is en dan volgt de nozzle (als het goed is)... de printer zal nl. nooit beginnen met en koude nozzle. Ik neem aan dat je in Cura de gewenste temperatuur hebt ingesteld?
  18. Good tip! I will clean the rods regularly. Prints look good now. Next problem: right fan makes so much noise when it is more then 80% on.....
  19. A while ago I came across this video: The holes he did in his model are in a vertical wall, but if you make them in the bottom near the corners, I guess it would work in the same way. Off course this is only suitable for models/buildings were the bottom is solid. An other way is to draw discs on the corners, like Mickey Mouse ears, and cut them off later. And use a large brim helps, did you use this? The brim can be taped down with ducktape or blue tape as an extra security.
  20. check the xray view, and you will probably see some red walls... and that means back to the drawing program (SketchUp??) and redo the walls shown in red. Red means that there are sufaces that are not closed/single, are not a solid.
  21. doing some test prints now. They look already better The gritty feeling/noise is still there, so it feels like a time bomb, hopefully it will not go off...
  22. on the right ones the ridge is a bit higher in the hair, but also around the same spot. the yellow one was to try another filament and rotated 90 degrees. I did not add any lubricant but there is a blue residue of grease. I cleaned the rods but this gritty feeling remains at the same spot
  23. The thing is brand-new. Right out of the box, these ridges were there from the start. There is some blue lubricant on the rods and the threaded rod is greased (factory). How do I get the rods out? from the top? Is this wise to do?
  24. Does the UM2go also suffer from faulty bearings? I get this under extruded layer almost every time at the same spot. If I move the platform by hand, at a certain point you can hear a light gritty sound, as if there is sand in the bearings. When I put the failed prints on the platform the position of the nozzle matches the failed spots.
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