peggyb

The Moldlay prints ok. I disabled the retraction because I didn't want the heat to creep up the bowden because of the lower melt temp. I print a basic ring and the treat the surface with a soldering iron to get this fluid molten surface and bring it to the casting service. I don't want to do the casting myself, they have better equipment to do this more precise and quicker... The casting itself is a vacuum system, so the molten silver comes in all the tiny spaces. PLA works as well, but the guy told me that the temperature to burn out the pla/moldlay is different. For Moldlay the instructions says 270 degrees, but for pla, they use about 800 degrees to get everything out.

Not in for the competition as well... A while ago we made a scale model of a mobile container with (printed) cnc machine, lasercutter, laptops chairs and of course Ultimakers (lasercut)... Reference for scale: the PlayMobile figure sitting on the chair.

to help you solve the problem of wall thickness of your model, you can use MeshMixer (free). Import your still and under --> Analysis --> Thickness you can generate a desired wall thickness. Also you can upload your model to Shapeways.com and choose a material with a specific minimum wall thickness and let the online repair generate an update.

I mean the wall thickness of the model, the .stl, if that is below 0.4, Cura cannot generate a wall for it.

your wall thickness is probably less then 0.4 mm, the size of the nozzle. This makes it impossible to display what you ask for...

made one layer of spikes: copied 44 ones radial, copied this layer above with a distance of 0.2 mm (layer thickness) and rotated slightly. copied these two layers over the whole body with the layer height distance. Made an offset from the body, about 3mm wider en split the spikes with this. Most work was removing the acces spike stuff, but this way the outline follows the body.

fixed

Thanks a lot! The scenery did work because I need to defrost the freezer real soon...... This was an icepack with a lot of ice on it, so, into the printer, photo, and back before it all started to melt.... The file is on Youmagine, https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gorilla-with-fur-community-contest-part-2-6d834201-6c05-42f4-abd5-acada0be014b you can see that I made a lot of layers with 'spikes', 0.2 mm high and 0.4 mm wide, so the spikes are printed in the air and drop a little. If you want to optimize the effect it needs a lot of fine tuning: distance, length, speed, fan, how much, etc..

Cura 15.06.03 is still a beta, you can use Cura 14.09 for stable use.

thanks for your video again! try this: apply the glue randomly, put it in the printer, heat the bed up, and with a damp cloth/tissue wipe the bed to dissolve the glue. The heat of the bed will dry the glue in a shiny thin layer. Your print will also have this shiny bottom, as for the undiluted glue will be a bit cloudy, corresponding the pattern of the the glue strokes. It works the same for many layers, just the appearance is better.

pictures are from last year, the same for this year with 2015 on it of course. They forgot the award and phoned last Tuesday if it could be ready for Monday (23 nov.) But I think it is nice enough to use for another year

I made an Award for VOM (Dutch Government Management), like last year. Text was lasered in perspex and filled with white paint

Gorillas with fur / community contest, part 2 Winter is coming! Get warm! files are on: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gorilla-with-fur-community-contest-part-2-6d834201-6c05-42f4-abd5-acada0be014b

een tijdje geleden kwam ik er 1 op m'n werk tegen, heeft een plekje binnen gekregen op een werkbank

if you look closely at the layer view you will see that up to 24% every layer has both crossing directions in one layer. From 25% and up each layer has one direction and therefore the lines are closer together. So the 24% gets a lot of strength because of the double cross points, and most of the time it is not necessary to fill it more (unless there is a specific reason to do this).

make sure that every wall is at least 0.4 mm thick, the size of the nozzle.

do you mean something like this?: it starts around 0.30 and when it gets to 1.00 the over extrusion is really visible when the nozzle is dragging through the pla. I have no idea what is is, the funny thing is that when I restart the file it could be good or bad again. (printed with a brand-new Ultimaker2Go, right out of the box)

40 mm/sec, and at some points I would dial it down or up depending on the section.

This one was printed with support, total weight about 500 grams, no retraction because i didn't want the heat to creep up the tube. First print failed after 11 hours (brass filament, predicted 20 hours, 0.1 layer height, 0.4 nozzle) Changed the nozzle to 0.6, layer height 0.2, print time 12 hours, came out great. When you look at the text details, they are really good, so it will be fine to print smaller pieces as well. For this type of printer the nozzle size is most important to keep in mind. If the details are smaller then this size you have to choose another way.

how do the last layers look like? Is it a clean stop or is the material getting thinner and weaker? Is your object still attached on the platform? It is possible to hack the gcode and continue, but you will always see were the split was, and hard to find out at exactly which layer to continue. There are some posts on this subject somewhere, but it is a bit difficult to get it right, and only possible if your object is still in place. Another option is (when the object is not on the platform) to print the rest and glue it together. In Cura you can sink the object into the platform at the right spot and print it from there. Better to have some overlapping layers so you can sand both sides down to get an exact fit. Glue with PVC glue.

check the 'layer view' in Cura to see if there is anything suspicious in that section. It is possible that parts of your design are to thin to print and Cura has to skip that section. If all the layers are there than you should look more into the hardware of the machine or material, like Stu said.

this can happen if you screw it too hard, too cold. The area of the thread is thin and brass is weak. Search for 'broken screw removal' if you cannot get it out with pliers or so. And heat up the nozzle about 150 degrees while doing this.

On the Original the easiest way is to do this by hand (I have this printer for 3 years and never used the controller for that, never noticed is was there...) Do the 'preheat PLA' (or ABS) in the Ulticontroller and wait for the temp. to reach around 200 degrees. Than you manually turn the wheel on the back were you load the filament and turn it gently in the direction of the arrow. The resistance you feel must correspond with the flow of the filament that you can see. Do this before every print you start and if your bed leveling is good, your print will start perfect. Also great for changing colors.

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