gr5

Are you using any kind of glue or spray on your glass bed? Clean the bed very well. Probably best to remove it from the printer, clean it with scrubbing brush or spatula and hot soapy water. Then clean it again with glass cleaner to remove any extra oils and soap. Then put it back on the printer without getting your finger prints on the glass. Next there are so many options. Magigoo? hairspray? glue stick with water? But my favorite is elmers wood glue mixed in a jar with 10 to 20 parts water with 1 part glue. Regular elmers glue should work well if you don't have the wood glue. Put the lid on the jar and shake it up well then open and apply a thin layer onto the glass bed. I use an old crappy paint brush and rinse the brush for a few seconds after each time. Heat the bed to 60C or hotter until it dries completely. You should be left with a very very thin layer that is almost invisible. Now print on that. Your parts will stick really well. Also if you have parts that are more than 50% as long as the bed then consider adding brim (versus skirt). Brim helps hold down corners - particularly square corners of parts. Brim is under "build plate adhesion type".

Yes. Sort of. Not completely. But sort of. Usually the inner wall is printed before the outer wall so there is something to hang onto on the inner edge. But basically, yes.

The feature is called combing. You want it turned off for that spring. I think it's possible to turn it off only for that one part. Combing is where instead of retracting and zipping straight over the next spot to extrude onto, it tries to stay within the walls of the part. This usually saves time (no retraction needed). But in the case of this crazy spiral it wastes time with zero gain in quality. So turn off combing - at least for that spring. Usually combing is a good feature that saves you time.

You don't need to get anything from git. Install cura and as part of that installation there is an executable called the "engine" - I think it's "curaengine.exe" - something like that. That's the actual slicer part. Cura is the gui combined with curaengine. Anyway you can pass parameters to curaengine on the command line so you can call it from python or any other scripting language. This is documented on various parts of this forum. Just google within the forum for the engine like this: site:ultimaker.com curaengine Note that this is usually called the "command line interface" or CLI. Many programs (most?) have a command line interface - parameters that can be called from the console screen. But most people don't realize this. [edited to say curaengine]

You have the IP address as 8.8.8.8. That can't be right. That's the address of one of google's dns servers - I happen to know that. You need to use the actual address or possibly you can use "127.0.0.1" for the "current computer". You say you have a "pc" so I assume that's windows so open a command window and type "ipconfig". Somewhere in that mess is your address - typically something like 192.168.x.x or 10.x.x.x Don't confuse your computer address with your router (which usually ends in "1" such as 192.168.0.1. Don't confuse it with your mask which usually has 255 in it somewhere. Don't confuse it with dns server either (typically 8.8.8.8).

LOL! Yeah. Hopefully they will hide that one under experimental. Oops - they did. It definitely needs more warnings. If you take the feature away someone is bound to complain, lol.

On my windows10 computer it is here: C:\Users\gr5\AppData\Roaming\cura\4.8

Are you sure no log file? It should create the log file before the user interface appears. Maybe the folder where the log file is supposed to go is write protected? Is your home folder on a network drive (very unusual but I've seen it before at certain companies!).

I still don't understand this mesh you speak of. Can you draw a rough sketch with pencil and paper, photograph that and post it? These posts *are* the mesh? Or the mesh sits above them? Or are they like the sides of a soccer goal and the mesh goes from one post to another? Or do you mean the air flow is parallel to the long axis of the pegs (you said perpendicular)? Or the mesh is flat on the printer glass and I just can't see it because of the camera angle (maybe show another angle in this case)?

Did you know you can ssh into your printer with user/pass root/ultimaker? You have to put the printer into "developer" mode first. When in developer mode it also shows the ip address on the main display which is helpful. Then you are in linux and can use utilities like "dmesg" to search for possible errors. It's "debian jessie". Or it was - I think maybe firmware version 6.X is a newer version of debian. But even if you don't want to do that you can insert a USB stick, and in the maintenance menu on the printer you can dump all the log files (there's a LOT) and see if there are more details in there. You can match up the timing of the 405 error with what's happening in the exact same second in the log files.

You might also try printing slower and possibly also cooler. Set your travel speed as high as possible (you can probably set to 500mm/sec and hopefully your printer will not print any faster than it should if it's setup correctly) and set your printing speed to something slow like 25mm/sec. Printing slower means pressure in the nozzle is lower so it leaks less. printing cooler means the plastic is more viscous so it leaks less.

Those are a bit wobbly. I recommend the base is always at least 1/5th (aka 20%) as wide as the part is tall. So either make those about twice as wide or make them into a cone where the base is about twice as wide. What is the purpose of your mesh with skinny pegs? Hard to offer any other tips without knowing more. 🙂 The other advice for printing things this small is to print at least 5 so that each one can cool while it prints the others however you already followed that advice as there are a lot more than 5! 🙂

All the posts above yours are talking about something called the "prime blob". Yeah that looks bad. 😯 In cura you should always check in PREVIEW mode before printing because that would have shown you the seriousness of how hard it would be to remove all that support. I'm not sure your part actually needs any support at all. The leftmost area in the photo definitely doesn't need support as it's bridged at the top and bridging is fine on most 3d printers. There are maybe 100 support settings and there is a support blocker feature and there are tree supports and support patterns, support interface features (to make it easy to remove). I rarely actually use support but when I do it usually works fine but again - I don't have a Creality and it could indeed be that they should improve the defaults.

I have no idea what you are talking about. Could you show a photo maybe? There are no "default settings" in Cura. Every printer manufacterer sets up these default settings. Ultimaker consider's it Creality's job to submit profiles for their printers. So please complain to Creality, not Ultimaker. Or maybe someone else with a Creality already created some great profiles. @GregValiant has a Creality printer and maybe understands your issues better than me. Which Creality printer do you have? I think he has the Ender 3 maybe? With S3d - you pay for the software so they feel responsible to get it working on the most popular printers out there. With Cura, it's free and open source and anyone can contribute and the Cura team is happy to accept corrections, changes, improvements for competing printers (like Creality). It's up to Creality employees, or Creality users to create good profiles.

The sections would have to be not-touching horizontally because the nozzle would touch the earlier color. So I'm guessing they *do* touch vertically (print one color on top of a layer that is of a different color). Yeah I'm pretty sure that feature doesn't exist. You should really consider getting a two filament printer! 🙂 So you could do this by slicing different models and printing as separate print jobs and have some of them start at Z>0 (you can set the Z height of the bottom of your part in cura if you disable "automatically drop..." in general preferences).

Is it possible that A,B,C can also refer to the 3 servos on a delta printer? I've seen internal firmware (redeem) refer to the servos this way but I've never seen gcodes that refer to them that way so I'm thinking that nallath's explanation is the correct one.

So the one on the left is the latest? If so then you don't need any more help with retraction! Quality is getting so much better! If the left one is the newer version and you want to refine retractions even more you can create experimental parts where you don't have to print for hours to be able to see if there is a problem or not. Then play with retraction amount. We call those rectangles you mention "islands". When you think of only one layer and ignore that the part is 3D then you have islands and you retract when going from one island to another.

@Everlast66 - I don't care much about settings visibility anymore because I found another feature long ago. The search bar just above all the settings - if you type in part of a setting name, e.g. "layer", it will show all settings with that search term in the name of the setting or in the hover text description. The settings are shown regardless of "visibility". So now I just have to remember one of the words in the setting to find it.

I doubt it, no. Do profiles have visibility settings? I didn't think profiles had that either.

I think @mercatp is not reading the answers here. He just asked the same question over in the french area even though we gave him several good answers here.

Old filament isn't as good as new filament. Most brands of PLA can get brittle after a year or two (but only if you leave it on the back of the machine for 10 hours without printing but still it's more work).

Rather than scaling it you have 3 other options I can think of immediately: horizontal expansion, print thin walls, change line width down a bit to say 0.35mm.

sometimes the nozzle can hit the part pretty hard when you have overhangs but your part should stick very very well such that it doesn't get knocked off. What material are you printing? PLA?

Buy all 3 if you have the time to box them up and ship them. If all at the same price I'd get the UM3 despite possibly needing $400 in repairs a year from now. The cores aren't expensive to replace - cheaper than money spent on filament by far. It's the Olimex board - I'm not sure but they seem to die after several years. No the quality difference isn't a big deal. If you print 1000 parts with UM3 and then one day switch to UM2 you will notice right away. But it's not significant. You can see the hours that the printer has printed on the display. On all 3 I think you go to "maintenance" menu and somewhere in there it has meters printed and hours printing. Typically meters of filament is similar to hours printed (1 meter per hour - some people print much faster or slower). So 1km of filament is 1000 hours printing - this is still a printer in decent shape. Printers with 2 to 5 km of filament printed tend to be in pretty rough shape but still print great. You may have to replace some belts or "sliding blocks" but nothing expensive. The only thing expensive to replace are potentially the white and red circuit boards under the printer. The machine is very servicable. It comes apart easily with tools.