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I've printed PLA as cool as 175C. That's about the limit for me personally. Usually I print much hotter. Look for posts by "neotko" in this forum. He is the expert on this feature and has gotten it to work better than anyone. Anyone. lol. e.g. in google do: site:ultimaker.com neotko ironing Older posts will be more informative in this rare case. He might have called it by something else? I think he always called it "ironing". Also consider your nozzle tip. What is the diameter of the "shoulder" (the flat part) and the diameter of the nozzle hole. You should be able to set the ironing spacing based on that diameter. Maybe 20% smaller? Not sure. See what neotko did.

Those gaps sound like normal underextrusion. A common problem on 3d printers. Please show a photo of what you are talking about because even in this case when I think I know exactly what you mean I'm often wrong once someone posts a photo and may be giving you bad advice.

This is a common problem. It's caused by underextrusion. I know the extrusion looks pretty good in the middle but it's a small amount of underextrusion - enough to cause this. Also you may have some backlash (look it up on wikipedia) which makes the gaps bigger in some orientations. A different issue, the gap in the leg, is probably related to Cura and not your printer. Try printing the same part at half speed just to see what happens. You can do this live while it is printing in the TUNE menu of most printers including the UM2. I recommend you have all printing speeds in Cura (there are about 7 of them) at the same value as well. Otherwise you get underextrusion every time the printer speeds up to a new higher speed. For just a few seconds until the pressure in the nozzle reaches a new equilibrium. It could be you simply need a new teflon part. They are priced cheaply by UM because you need to get a new one often. They are considered an expendable. Like filament. But cheaper. There are a dozen other things that can cause underextrusion. I can post a list if you confirm that lower speeds help. You should be able to comfortably print 3 to 5mm CUBED per second. To calculate your cubic volume per second multiply the line width (typically 0.4mm) by the layer height (typically 0.2mm) by the print speed. If you have to print slower than this to get good prints, let me know. Send me a personal message directly and include a link to this topic.

Marlin has a configuration where you can set the look ahead planner buffer size. Most printers have this set to 8 or 16. This works for the arduino mega 2560 which has so damn little ram (but lots of eeprom) and is a bit slow. The calculations a planner is a bit heavy but not too bad. A few square roots for each path. These chips are probably something like $1. With a 32 bit 1 GHz $10 chip you can easily do 1000 paths in the lookup path (I know - redeem does on a beaglebone black). Some printers have gone this route. Unfortunately most of these 32 bit chips come with Linux which (very rarely) can slow down the cpu enough to mess up a print if some process slows down the computer too much. I think this is why the S3/S5 ultimaker printers still use a mega2560 for the actual path planner and a second 32 bit linux computer for things like wifi and controlling the touch screen. If you have one of these 32 bit controllers for your printer you can probably perform G2/G3 with 0.1mm resolution just fine at full speed.

Sometimes I have to exit cura and go back in. For example sometimes it looks like all the checkboxes are blank. I just exit cura and start again and things are fine for a few more days.

I have Ubuntu and the appImage works for me. There are many issues with video drivers and openGL (cura uses openGL) where sometimes things don't display. I suspect it is related to openGL and your graphics card. Try updating all the drivers for your graphics card and try updating openGL.

Almost surely because you need to add the 4.7k pullup resistor. I think using the thermistor is a great solution. The pt100 isn't more accurate but it can handle higher temps. Thermistors get damaged at high temps (they are all different but yours should be fine up to 230C probably even 250C) and once they get overheated they start reading the wrong temp. As long as you stick to PLA you'll be fine.

copy of old post with more info about machine settings: ======= modifying settings for your particular printer Some of them you can edit here: Machine settings are usually here: go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", then "extruder 1". Alternatively, you can edit them with the printer settings plugin: Click "marketplace" in upper right of cura, make sure you are on "plugins", scroll down and alphabetically among the "P"s is "printer settings" plugin. Finally you can edit the json file with your printer settings here. The files are in a "definitions" folder *somewhere* on your computer (no idea how to find this folder on a PC - maybe in c:/program files/ultimaker/?? Here are 10 of the files out of about 106 different printer configuration files. Find your printer. geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/cura/share/cura/resources/definitions$ grep -R -i material_diameter * 101Hero.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, 3dator.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, abax_pri3.def.json: "material_diameter": { abax_pri5.def.json: "material_diameter": { abax_titan.def.json: "material_diameter": { anycubic_i3_mega.def.json: "material_diameter": bfb.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.7 }, bq_hephestos_2.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, bq_hephestos.def.json: "material_diameter": { bq_hephestos_xl.def.json: "material_diameter": { bq_witbox_2.def.json: "material_diameter": { bq_witbox.def.json: "material_diameter": { builder_premium_large.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, builder_premium_medium.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, builder_premium_small.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 },

I'm pretty sure you are right about the positive/negative numbers but again - it won't matter unless you print multiple parts in "one at a time" mode. And the nozzle distance - I have no idea why one would be 72 - sorry. 21 sounds like a more common nozzle distance to me. Dual printing is complicated. Most printers use T0 to mean switch to the first extruder and T1 for the second and use E for both extruders. Some printers use E0 for the first and E1 for the second and don't even mention a T command. So some printers if you want to heat the second nozzle you need two commands: T1 and then the heat nozzle command. Other printers you specifiy the nozzle in the nozzle temperature command . It's a mess when you go dual. Some printers have 2 heads so you have to move one out of the way before switching "tools" with the T command. These might have 2 different nozzle fans. Some printers you have to go pick up a tool and that part is in the gcode with X Y movements. Other printers do this automatically when you change tools. Do this: 1) Find a working gcode file or just use known working "start" gcodes. go here and look them all up. Write down on a piece of paper, each gcode in the start list and what they do. It's quite simple - there are only a few like "set nozzle temp and wait for it to reach that temp" "set nozzle temp but don't wait - jump to next gcode" "set bed temp" "turn on fan". "home all axes" and a few more. https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code 2) Don't touch the cura start codes. Slice any small model and save the gcode file. Open the gcode file and compare those gcodes to the ones you know work perfectly. Everything should make sense - the order will be different and so on but if there is anything critical missing in the cura generated ones ONLY THEN should you edit your start gcodes. Ask questions if in doubt.

Yes @ahoeben, thank you. I'll put that in my file of helpful things.

Or maybe "makerbot"?

First I should warn you that there are something like 100 machine settings that aren't shown in these dialogs unfortunately. You can include CAD files of your printer to make it prettier in the GUI for example. But it should be enough to get good prints for most printers. Also document what you did well because sometimes when you upgrade Cura (rarely) you get messed up profiles and the solution is to blow away all user files (like printer settings). Next, "creatware" is a fork of an older version of Cura. Cura version 15.X I think (15 refers to 2015). Cura 2.X came out that year or the next. Now we are at Cura 4.X. Cura 15.X was an excellent version of Cura so don't think there is anything wrong with it just because it is "old". In fact some people claim it produces nicer looking prints. So it should be easier to convert between creatware and cura settings although some things have changed (and 400 parameters were added - yup - 400). Printhead settings - yes it looks like you are right and they switched to negative. This is only used when printing in "one at a time mode" where you have multiple STL files and you print one to completion, then put the nozzle back to the glass and print another. It's to avoid the print head hitting earlier completed prints. It's the distance from the nozzle to the 4 "sides" of the print head - the "bounding box" if you will. The other critical value is "gantry height" and cura won't go into "one at a time mode" if any of the STL files are taller than the gantry height (why it doesn't print the shorter parts first - I don't know). flavor - these are minor changes (usually). reprap printers use Marlin as far as I know so I always thought that was weird. None of this seems to be documented well but I recommend "Marlin" as that I think matches best to Creatware. "volumetric" is where E values are in cubic mm instead of linear mm. That way you can change filaments on the printer without making a new gcode file. That's a rare feature. Ultigcode is for Ultimaker printers only. I don't know the differences of the rest, sorry. "second extruder offset" is if you have two extruders in the same head. It's the distance between them. Do you have that? You can use a ruler to get it roughly. Are you doing dual extruder prints? Because if so this complicates things a lot. There are many different implementations of dual extruders and I don't know that Cura supports them all. As far as "start" gcodes this gets a little more complicated. Cura will add more start gcodes automatically like setting the nozzle temp. If you add one of these in the start gcodes then cura will see that you did that and not add the nozzle temp a second time. The brackets thing - the names probably haven't changed from creatware but they might have. In the old cura 15.X (creatware) it was easy because the names of things like bed temp and nozzle temp matched exactly the names in the GUI (except spaces and capitalization I think but it was consistent). Someone published the names of all the Cura 4.X names (like nozzle temp) on this forum. In fact I remember Aldo did it ( I think he has 2 cura names and I forget which he uses - I think this one: @ahoeben ) I would try the default gcodes, slice and save a gcode file and examine it. Some of the older Makerbot printers don't accept gcode at all - they have some kind of shorthand to save space. I guess this was back when we had to put gcode files on floppies maybe? (I'm kidding - it wasn't that long ago - I don't know why they tried to save a little space - I think that turned out to be a bad decision). I'm not sure if Makerbot accepts normal gcode these days.

Check two things. Click on the part and on the left side of the screen click on the "move tool" (to allow you to move the part up/down/left/right). Look at the Z value. Make sure it is zero. Looking at your screen shot it looks to me like Z is a negative value which would explain your situation. Also click on the scale tool to see how tall your print is to verify that cura thinks it is 4mm. Finally - it could be a rounding error - change your initial layer to 0.19mm.

[i deleted your "repair" post as I think you fixed things already, right? If not, then I apologize] In cura at the top is PREPARE and then PREVIEW. Always look at your part in PREVIEW mode after slicing and move the slider on the right side. You can count the layers here without wasting time printing. You can change a setting in cura and reslice and see what is happening in seconds rather than waste time printing a failure. 4mm/0.2mm = 20 layers. So you got the perfect result? I think maybe your question is wrong. I think you expected 20 layers but got 19 layers? This makes sense. The first layer is usually thicker (defaults to 0.3mm or 0.27mm depending on printer type). You can change the first layer in the cura setting: "initial layer height". Set that to 0.2mm (or maybe 0.199mm) and now you should get exactly 20 layers.

It's great to talk to someone who knows networks for a change. 1) ssh credential is root/ultimaker - you can configure the network using conman linux utility (it's not a raspberry pi but actually an Olimex board). The printer has a version of linux called "debian jessie" I believe. you can use apt-get to install more software utilities as needed. You can easily "brick" the machine if you mess up the network with conman (because you lose ssh access) so go slowly. To unbrick you will need a micro-sd card and beg for instructions from your reseller and can waste many hours the first time but once you've done it once it only takes 5 minutes the second time. You can also bypass ssh by buying a $7 "olimex serial F" cable and you get direct access to the console through a nearby laptop and so that's (for me) an easier way to unbrick if you just did a minor conman configuration error. If you are in USA then I sell the cable here: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/usb-serial-cable-f.html 2) If the printer has the option, try "reset digital factory" (newer firmware?) or "cura connect reset" (older firmware). You won't lose any printer configuration and it fixes dozens of problems on the printer particularly ones related to networking. It doesn't hurt but I think will do a reboot so it takes a minute. 3) wired is much much better than wifi on the S3/S5 printers. It's not a matter of signal strength. It's something more serious. If you can get a wired connection it may solve many issues.

Oh!!! Maybe that's it. @mboccus - after clicking on marketplace click on the top right corner of that window: "installed". Scroll down it is simply called "scale tool".

@Juliogdiana - Torgeir has the best answer. You have to make sure there is a 4.7K pullup. Not sure if it comes with one so you may have to add one. 4.7K would typically be yellow/purple/red color stripes on the resistor. If it is yellow/purple/orange then this is 47K and should be removed and replaced with a 4.7K. There might not be any resistor at all and so you might have to solder one in. If you aren't good with electronics, maybe you know someone who is good with soldering and understands simple circuits and owns a soldering iron and an ohm meter.

Wow! That looks like a Cura bug! Try installing cura on a different computer. I've never seen that before. Actually looking closer - those 3 yellow buttons look wrong. I think the button is there but just has the wrong icon. Try clicking on each button! One of them, second one down - even though it looks like "rotate" it might actually be "scale". Try clicking on that one.

Not the best way, but maybe the easiest way: you can edit them with the printer settings plugin: Click "marketplace" in upper right of cura, make sure you are on "plugins", scroll down and alphabetically among the "P"s is "printer settings" plugin.

Well you can drag the horizontal bar as fast as you want. Does that help?

I'm not sure you can. The UM2 head normally has a PT100 sensor. Can you confirm that detail? If you measure the ohms it should be about 109 ohms +/- 5 ohms at room temperature. The UMO heated bed upgrade allowed you to use a PT100 sensor but they added a second circuit board to allow you to measure the temperature with a PT100 and the 1.5.7 version board. The UMO+ uses the V2.X circuit board which has extra electronics to deal with a PT100. So in summary, I'm not sure you can do it. If you are an electrical engineer then you can study the schematic for the 1.5.7 and the V2 board and maybe figure something out. Or you can buy a UM2 circuit board. Or you can get a chinese clone of the UM2 circuit board. I guess because I'm really cheap I would probably go with the last option but realize it may take a while to get it all working and it helps if you know electronics and can read schematics. The simplest solution by far is to buy an authentic UM2 circuit board with the UM2 display. Or a UMO+ circuit board (which might be the same PCB - not sure) with the UMO+ firmware.

Sorry - you can't have it both ways. You can't show all the settings but at the same time not show all the settings.

That's almost surely because the wall is too thin. If your line width (typically equal to nozzle width) is 0.4mm then the minimum wall width is 0.8mm by default. Cura will do thinner walls if you check the box "print thin walls". down to something like maybe 0.4mm. You can set your nozzle width to 0.1mm just as test to verify that your walls are too thin. If you are printing a hollow cylinder and only want to do one pass on the walls, I would model it as a solid cylinder in CAD and print with no infill, no top and no bottom. That way you can get extra thin walls. This only works for vase/cup/cylinder types of prints. If you have something more complicated (99.99% of models) then this won't help.

Yes. This is the problem. They way Marlin works is a hack and it's also very elegant at the same time. I've been though the path planning code dozens of times to understand all the intricacies. The people/person who wrote the path planner is really smart and did a reasonable job. But he/she optimized the code for line segments. Not arcs. The handling of arcs is a hack/compromise. In summary: G02 G03 commands are going to give you worse quality than G0/G1 Marlin has a buffer of moves (one move per G1 command but many moves per G2 command). That buffer only holds 16 moves for most arduino processors. Some printers out there only have 8 moves in the buffer - yikes. Marlin is processing new moves/gcodes while it's printing and doesn't know if the next gcode is a sharp corner or a stop (every time you do a retraction, Cura has the printer stop, retract, then move again). So the path planner can't build up too high of a speed because 16 moves in the future it may have to come to a stop. The path planner is constantly going backwards through the buffer and figuring out what the max speed is a the end of every move so it can stop within the buffered moves. Every time it adds a new move at the end of the buffer it re-evaluates to try to move faster on the very next move to print. If you have too many moves in a short arc (e.g. > 16) the printer slows down to a crawl. It sucks for the quality of the print (ugly bumps and squirts) and it sucks because things slow down. The computer running Cura and CAD (your computer) is thousands of times faster than an Arduino and does a better job of things like converting a curve in CAD into triangles. The CAD people hopefully did a good job. Much better than the Marlin people. Cura turns the triangles into line segments in a slice. It also sometimes throws out super short lines. It's also smarter than Marlin. Best not to have any G02 commands! I've looked at several path planners: Marlin, Repetier, Redeem. And I've rewritten much of the Redeem path planner. They are all copied from Marlin. They are all 99% the same functionality and even much the same code. I've also looked at the path planner in TinyG - that is completely different. Written by a different guy who thinks differently. Very original ideas there. But pretty much no printers use TinyG - that's mostly for CNC routers and pretty much any XYZ machine that isn't a 3d printer (I guess it's an industry thing?). I think only printrbot used TinyG and then soon after went out of business.

What? I still don't understand. "yes" to what? It's a typo? Then what did you mean? Maybe you can show a screen shot? I'm sure over 10,000 people have tried 4.8 and I haven't heard any other "scaling" issues. Here try answering all of these numbers below. I don't think you answered any of my questions. 1) is "os scaling" a typo? 2) What does "os scaling" do? 3) Do you want to scale the part? 3b) If so did you try clicking on the part and when you click on the part does it put a blue highlight around the part? 3c) If yes then do you see 4 or so buttons on the left side?