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@theamanjadon you should start a new thread. I've seen those tiny holes before. I'm not sure what causes them but definitely blame the slicer. Look at the slicer view at those same spots and see if they are non-extruding travel moves with retraction or without retraction. And you may need to tweak your retraction amount. You want to retract only enough to relieve the pressure but not actually pull the filament out of the print head at all. For a bowden printer that is around 4mm but you can just move the E axis from the menu and then manually extrude a bit and then retract until the filament just barely lays down on the bowden (look at the top of the arch). Then write down how much you retracted manually and use that. Obviously if these holes are at locations where no retraction is occurring then it has nothing to do with retraction. So first step is to look carefully at what is happening at these spots.

If you disable auto level and if you do the manual leveling with the calibration card - the two CRITICAL steps are when you level back in the rear center with the primary core and then repeat with the second core. This is where the printer discoveres the difference in height between the two nozzles perfectly. If you are off by a tiny bit in this procedure then the two nozzles won't be printing at the same height. If you do auto leveling then your manual leveling is ignored. It's important that the amount of friction you feel on the calibration care for the rear center leveling point is identical for both cores. For printing the bottom layer you can be off by 0.1mm and it will probably be okay but when doing dual core print you want the two nozzles at the same height within about 0.01mm (10X more accurate).

I like to wash in a sink with soap and water and scrub it well, then rinse, then wash with glass cleaner then dry with paper towel and then give it a coating of PVA mixed with water. There's 3 easy ways to get liquid pva onto the glass. It really helps. I'm not sure what changed. There could be some oil. Or maybe something is wrong with auto leveling (it's important that the spring in the core is stronger than the springs in the bed but in this case it levels too low which means it sticks better so I doubt it is that). Or maybe what changed is your models are larger or you increased infill percentage (which pulls inward on the upper layers applying more stress). Or maybe you used to have rounded corners or brim and decided sharp corners are better. Lifting corners and how to deal with this is too complicated to explain here especially since I spent dozens of hours getting it all down into one 15 minute video. I know - 15 minutes seems like too much time. But if you want the full answer to your question you really need to watch the whole thing. Sorry.

The longer the part in X or Y (or both) the more likely it will lift the corners. So the smallest part to demonstrate this is a print that looks like a pencil but rectangular. This is all discussed in very great detail (why it does this and how to stop the curling) in the video above. I could explain it here but I already explained it in detail in the video. After watching the video and doing the things I recommend you will have a new problem - how to get parts off the glass. I can literally lift the printer up by a tiny 3d print like the ultimaker robot and swing the printer around the room. I think I do that in the video also.

There's lots of ways to do this. ahoeben's way is best but also you can just open the gcode file with a text editor and look at the top dozen or so lines of comments and then look at the very bottom - the last line. Personally I save as project in cura and simultaneously save gcode file on hard drive (or print over network) such. The "project" file has everything in it including the orientation of the part/parts and all the settings.

You can (and I did over a year ago) turn off auto leveling in the menu system somewhere.

Just from your words it sounds like the nozzle is too far from the glass. But there can be many causes including the glass is dusty or oily. You need to clean the glass about once per month. But a much more thorough answer is here - I know it's a long video (15 minutes) but the details of how to get filament to stick well to the bed (really really well) is complex:

Oh. And you may have hooked up the heater wrong. First get this temp sensor working. That's important to get working before working on the heater part. But I believe the heater terminals on the UMO board output 19V on one side and floating on the other and then when the heater comes on it grounds one side. This 19V may be too much for your relay - it may blow it out. Instead you should probably put the proper high voltage connected directly to one side of the relay according to it's specifications (does it take 5V? 12V? Some other nominal voltage? Look up the allowed voltage - if you put in too much you can destroy it - it will say what the normal range of voltages that it accepts for the coil side in the specs). Then you can run a single wire from the relay coil all the way to the UMO board to that pin I mentioned that is sometimes floating and sometimes ground. Make sure the ground for the power supply goes to some ground pin somewhere on the UMO so the grounds are connected together. Actually if you aren't good at this stuff (maybe you did it properly already) you could draw out a circuit diagram of what you did and photograph it and post it here to ask if it looks okay.

Unfortunately barely any two 100k thermistors are alike. Unlike say PT100s, you need to know exactly the part number. Which of the Marlin builders out there did you use? I strongly recommend this one: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ Note that there are MANY 100k thermistors. They all have different curves. Very different. So hopefully your's is on the list. If not you are mostly screwed and should buy one that *is* on the list. In theory you could make your own table. But thermistors are typically under $1 so why bother? If you want to do your own table you first need to learn to complie marlin yourself (not using bultimaker). I can help you with that. Then you have to create your own table. Trust me - it's easier to use an existing table.

While waiting for your replacement you can print this to get going again: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cracked-slide-block-cap

Hopefully you bought from Dim3nsioneer. They have awesome support. You will almost surely get free replacements for all 4 blocks.

Please show a photo. I've printed TPU and TPC before and gotten over most of the issues. Also what size nozzle? I've only tried 0.4 cores but I assume it will leak a lot more with a 0.6 or larger core.

You must have checked it accidentally. That should be off by default - it's pretty experimental and not useful for most prints.

I think you might have "make overhang printable" checked. If not then show us what the part looks like in xray view mode (there's normal mode, slice view and xray). Does it show the overhang in xray mode?

Well if Cura is resulting in worse results than other slicers it's almost always temperature or printing speed. Set *all* of cura's printing speeds to the same value and match it to another slicer and I think the results will be closer (and disable jerk/accel control). Also I recommend trying Cura 15.04.06. If you are going to compare cura to two other slicers, please try 15.04.06 as well. It's the same engine but somehow it gives me better results (although the difference is small enough that I don't really use it anymore). https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list

Please note that bman didn't see the eldrick post until after bman posted because new posters have to have the first 3 or so posts approved by a moderator.

If you print a cylinder vertically or a cylindrical hole vertically they come out smaller than desired. Especially the holes. This is because PLA comes out like a liquid rubber band - like snot - it cools rapidly and shrinks and is stretchy and sticks to itself like snot. Combine these properties and it's like a liquid rubber band. So as it gets laid down around a vertical cylindrical hole, it pulls inward and the diamter of the hole is typically 0.4mm smaller than desired. Because of this I usually add 0.4mm to 0.5mm to every vertical hole diameter (half that if radius) in CAD. Solid cylinders are also smaller but not by as much if the outer layer goes on last because the inner layers help support. I'm not sure how much they shrink - maybe only 0.1mm. Basically if you are printing a nut I would look at the diameter of the hole and scale up X and Y (but not Z) by the right amount to add 0.5mm. Or you can set horizontal expansion to -0.5. That shrinks the outside of the part and enlarges vertical holes. If you are printing a screw I would probably leave it as is. When you need really precise parts turn off acceleration control and jerk control and set all the printing speeds the same (anytime you speed up or slow down you get some under or over extrusion) and set the print speeds pretty low - maybe 25mm/sec if you want a perfect part. Patience is rewarded.

Ignore that. You want "initial layer height". Typically it defaults to 0.27mm (used to be 0.3mm).

Are you printing over network or through USB flash drive? If you are printing over USB then it could be a bad connection there as well. But I doubt it.

You should really probably send it back. I think the only thing that can cause the "print out of volume" error is an electrical error in communication between the linux PCB and the arduino PCB. The linux PCB is sending gcodes to the arduino and some bits are getting flipped. Either that or bad gcodes from cura which is extremely unlikely unless you are printing within a few mm from the edge of the print volume. What happens is the cable that connects these two computers can get spurious bad bits and a G1 X200 can get changed to a G1 X900 and since the print volume is less than 900mm (0.9 meters) it gets the error you reported.

If it was endstops then the part would have sudden permanent (for a few layers anyway) shifts in position. @Reverse_Engineer - you really need to take apart things and clean out the SD card reader with a needle and compressed air and re-position the cables that go between the board with the SD card reader and the main circuit board. Maybe swap the 2 ribbon cables (I assume your printer has 2 ribbon cables - maybe it has one cable).

So I have had printers with this problem. First let's go over the symptoms. The X or Y axis (never the Z) will suddenly move very far - sometimes 100mm from the normal position. Also sometimes the print will stop and the E axis will move very far - maybe 100mm. And then it will move back and continue printing. It will be paused for maybe 5 seconds while the E axis retracts 100mm and then goes back like nothing happened. Oh and the other symptom is occasionaly "print out of area" errors. The cause: Very bad communication. One time the problem was that I was using an SD card and there was a hair in the connectors. I took that part of the printer apart and cleaned it out with a toothpick and compressed air and vacuum. After that it worked much batter. Also it's possible the USB cable can cause the problem if you are printing through USB or the ribbon cables that connect to the arduino board or even the arduino itself can be a bit defective. Once the problem was fixed by simply repositioning the ribbon cables. What happens is there is a checksum. If one random bit is changed then the checksum fails and it resends that line of gcode. Most of the time. But if the checksum is also changed and passes by random chance then the line of gcode is assumed to be okay (even though it isn't). If a G1 X150 is changed to G1 X250 or G1 X050 then the X axis will move very far away from the print and then return and continue. If it is changed to G1 X950 you get the out of bounds error. Random failures of the checksum will pass 1 out of every 256 times (on average).

Well PLA is my favorite material by far. It's the easiest to print and what works for one PLA will work for them all. But... Some colors (particularly white which I'm guessing is less than 50% pla and has a lot of chalk or something in it) are a little trickier. If you have more stringing than usual then you want to lower the temperature. If you go too cold you will get underextrusion. That's pretty much the only thing you need to worry about with PLA. It has a very wide printing range (from 160C to 240C) so it's really hard to screw it up. ABS will have bad layer bonding if you print too cold. It may be evident in layers that split minutes or hours after that layer is complete. Or the part may look perfect until months later when it breaks, it breaks along layer lines (and it should not). ABS will cook into a gum like gunk that clogs nozzles if you leave it at even just 240C for too long. So the range for ABS is almost negative (nonexistent). Basically print just barely hot enough for layers to bond well but no hotter. This is best achieved by enclosing the printer so the air temp is higher so you don't have to print quite as hot. Pretty much all other materials other than PLA have this layer bonding issue. For example Nylon. That's how you pick the minimum temp. The way the materials profile group at Ultimaker do it (one of their tricks) is to print parts at different temperatures and then break the part - if it breaks along a layer line then you printed it too cold. If the break/crack moves through the part independent of layer lines then it is hot enough. If standby temp is too high the idle nozzle will leak. If standby temp is too low it will take longer on nozzle changes because you have to wait longer for the nozzle to get up to temperature. If initial temp is too low it will underextrude when you start printing with that nozzle. As long as you are printing PLA you shouldn't have to worry about any of this as the default settings (at least for 0.4 nozzle) are quite good and most other materials are already in cura. Despite manufacturers claims that their PET is better than all the others, the materials are more similar than you would think (e.g. nGen and PET basically the same thing). Two days ago I printed some nylon with settings in cura for TPU and it printed fine. It printed 40C hotter than recommended. But it was fine. Lol.

Well if the bottom two layers are so important to you then I would definitely turn off autolevel (if you have UM3 or S5) as manual leveling is more consistent. It will not change for months once you get it dialed in. Also I recommend trying a 0.1mm bottom layer. I'm not confident this will be any better but I think it's worth experimenting on a small cube. Cura defaults to a thick bottom layer (0.3mm) because the reasoning is if the glass is not flat then this is thick enough that you will get filament everywhere. But in reality the pressure from the nozzle is usually enough to push the bed down just enough such that this compensates a little bit for non-flat glass. Doing a bottom layer of 0.1mm works surprisingly well. I know for sure that the bottom layer will come out well but I'm not sure if the second layer will be better or worse regarding "elephants foot" also called "micro brim".

All the other "initial layer" parameters override settings for the first layer and don't sum. So you probably want -.32 in this cae. When measuring the error of the part make sure the micrometer doesn't touch any corners! Corners have their own error caused because the print head is slowing down. In fact if you want high precision then make sure you turn off: 1) acceleration control 2) jerk control And make sure all the printing speeds are the same (because when it switches from (for example) infill to shell if it speeds up it will underextrude for a few seconds or if it slows down it will overextrude for a few seconds. vertical cylinders are indeed going to be small because the filament is like a liquid rubber band and is pulled inward. I usually add 0.4 or 0.5mm to all my vertical cylinder holes in cad (but not to horizontal cylinders. You can add a chamfer at the base of your part to compensate for all of the horizontal expansion/elephants foot. I know it's not as easy as using initial horizontal expansion. Sorry - that's all I have for you.