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On the printer in the menu system you can configure wifi. When you do it will prompt you to use a phone or other wireless device. You navigate to the access point it suggests (will be something like "ultimaker-44aa". Then open *any* DNS address that isn't https. Probably best to pick one you've never been to such as "aaabbcde.com" and the dns server on the ultimaker will direct the query to it's own ip address automatically.

And use brim. lots of brim. You have to cut it off after but it's worth it. You can probably get away with no brim for these small parts but not much larger parts.

So I've printed many brands of Nylon including novamid 1030 but not novamid 1070. You want the bed temp as high as possible. Nylon will be fine (won't melt) usually at least to 120C but 100C should be hot enough. Nylon is actually easier for me than other materials because it is already somewhat flexible which is critical to avoid warping. Nylon gets more and more flexible gradually as it gets warmer so at 100C it is quite flexible. There are 3 good ways to properly create the proper pva surface on glass. But first start over and clean the glass and get everything off of it. Then you can use one of these 3 methods: 1) glue stick - you probably were doing it wrong - put down glue stick such that you leave bare spots on half the glass (just put down separated stripes) then use a wet tissue to spread it evenly and to remove 80% of the pva. This will give you a good extremely thin layer of pva. 2) hair spray - This is quite simple and hard to mess up but if you go this route remove the glass from the printer as you don't want glue in your printer particularly the Z screw. 3) slurry. This is easiest in the long term. Mix chunks of pva with water or mix elmers wood glue with water (1 part wood glue 10 to 30 parts water). Shake it up well - if using solid chunks of pva let it dissove for several hours. Use a paint brush to spread this mixture on the bed, heat the bed to 60C or hotter and by the time the temp reaches around 60C the water should evaporate leaving an almost invisible layer of wood glue. kman (post above) adds alcohol to the slurry. To understand why parts curl off the bed and all the other details (you need to squish the bottom layer into the glass hard) watch this video: Oh! One more thing - you can reduce warpage and improve layer bonding by covering the front and top of your UM3. Just use a gallon ziplock for the front and a cardboard box for the top. This will raise air temps to around 35C which will reduce shrinkage (until print is complete) and help with layer bonding and help the heated bed get up to temp faster and stay at 100C or 110C.

I meant set *all* the speeds slower but most important are the shells which affect the corner bulging the most. Step 1 of diagnosing is always to find a way to get it to work (e.g. in this case, turn off accel control and slow it down). Step 2 is always find a way to make it not work (try speeding up but with accel control still off - keep speeding it up until it breaks again). Step 3 is to try to make it work again. Each step you learn more. You can adjust speed and temperature *while it's printing!* to save even more time and get more experiments done in less time. You can't change accel control while it's printing unfortunately. It's not as simple as slow=good quality, fast = bad. You can do lots of things to improve one without hurting the other. For example print thicker layers but slow speeds and you may get the results you want (better quality *and* faster).

@casdcoke5 - You have severe underextrusion. It could be as simple as you are printing too much volume or too cold. For example if your layer heights are too thick, print speed too fast, etc. infill is printed by default at 2X the speed of your walls (I know you say 50 for both but there are not just 2 printing speeds but I think maybe 5 or so). Your walls are also underextruded. What kind of printer are you using? Make and model? For example if this were an ultimaker 2 I would say first thing to try is to replace the teflon part. Again the most common problem is simply printing too cold and too fast. Try raising temp 10C and cutting speed by 50%. But there could be issues with the feeder or the nozzle or your line width might be larger than your nozzle size or any other number of problems but first tell us your printer brand and model.

infill? You only need it to support top surfaces. I recommend the variable infill - saves you lots of time. You want around 20% just before it prints the top layers (which may not be on the actual top - I'm talking about any locally upper surfaces like each layer of a cake or the entire top half of a sphere). So... um... maybe: infill density 24% gradual infill steps 3 gradual infill step height 1mm That will do 24% infill for the top 1mm before starting solid top layers And 12% infill 1mm below that And 6% infill 1mm below that and 0% infill 1mm below that. I think. Play with it and look at it in layer view. This will typically save 20% printing time (gradual infill) which is significant. Another good time saver is to use larger nozzles. An AA 0.8 can print twice as thick a wall in a single pass and can do 0.4mm thick layers very easily. Of course the layer lines will be more visible and sharp outer corners will have a 0.4mm radius on them.

In the UK, faberdashery is pretty amazing stuff. But it's not spooled. Which has never been an issure for me - I just put it on the floor on a lazy-susan. eSun from china is the cheapest stuff I know of that is okay quality. I would tell you to stay away from eSun 3 years ago but it seems reasonable now. Bad quality: will unlikely be weak. I've never seen PLA that is so bad it is weaker than normal and I've never seen PLA that is super strong (unless fiber fill and if you want fiber fill go with nylon, not PLA). PLA is mostly PLA is mostly PLA. In other words it's mostly all the same. PHA added is fantastic stuff. Looks better. Overhangs better. bridges better. Bad quality: dusty. Filament not correct diameter (diameter varies every few meters). Most common problem: Just won't do overhangs very well (overhangs look like crap). Overhangs look all melty and droopy. Almost all the brands out there are quite good by now.

@nallath - who should this guy contact?

This is a leveling issue (glass too low in the rear). It could be that you simply need to turn the rear screw about one full turn CCW as seen from below to move the glass up. Likely even. Or your glass might not be level. But even if the glass is warped horribly, it should be printing perfect near the rear screw so: you're leveling is out. I like to level so it squishes the bottom layer quite a bit.

It's not normal behavior for all printers. It's easy to get rid of those bulging corners. The UM3 default settings are designed to make the print prettier but not as accurate. The first thing to do to help is turn off acceleration control and jerk control. This will give you more ringing but less bulging corners because the printer won't pause so long on the corners. The next thing to do is to lower your print speed closer to the corner speed. The corner speed if it's a right angle and jerk control is off will be 14mm/sec. If you print at 14mm/sec you will have perfect corners but even at 30mm/sec they will be much better. 20mm/sec is the slowest I ever go even when I want perfect corners. The whole reason why this works is that there is a spring effect in the bowden system and when the print head slows down (and the feeder slows down also), the pressure at the nozzle takes longer to equalize so it overextrudes when it slows down and underextrudes (briefly) when it speeds up again. For this reason I also like to set ALL my printing speeds identical. I don't want areas out of tolerance just because it slowed down after printing infill. Everything is a tradeoff. The default settings get you good results with reasonable speed but you can always tweak things to be 2X more accurate or 2X faster than default settings.

@jenny8008 - Go to this web page and look at temperature related codes: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code The temp is pretty simple usually both: M109 S210 or M104 S210 To set temperature to 210C. But for dual head printers sometimes you have to specify the head. Maybe a T0 command or a T1 command (by themselves) to indicate which head? If you can get your hands on a gcode file that properly sets the temp then look in that and look for the temperature in the gcode file (should be near the top - the first 30 gcodes or so). Then you can insert what you think is the right gcode into a gcode file that you were going to use and see if that works. Once you know the proper syntax you can tell cura in the start codes in machine settings.

I can understand it not moving in one axis but both? Push hard enough to slide the printer around on the table - well 2X harder than that actually if it's a bit stuck. You had power off? You should be able to move the head in one axis by just using one finger of each hand on the sliding blocks. I think you are going to take this all apart. I had one UM2 I repaired that required a hammer and vicegrips (set loosely) to get the brass tube bearing (hidden inside those side blocks) off of the side rod. There was some kind of stain on the side of the printer - I think someone sprayed polyethylene paint or something (or hairspray?) and it completely jammed up one of the 4 sliding blocks. I was able to clean it with paint thinner and the printer is as good as new now. It could be one of many parts jamming it up and I don't think you will know unless you take it all apart. Don't take apart the frame - just the gantry. There are videos showing how to do this.

Oops. Sorry I didn't mention this. I don't know why I didn't say anything the first time. I printed some TPU yesterday and was reminded that you have to dry it first. I usually dry it on the heated bed with a towel over it. Known firmware bug on the S5. It's somewhat high on the list of things to fix so should make it into the next firmware release. I hope.

I don't really use the support feature much, sorry, so don't have recommended settings. The triangular pattern I believe you chose I think is good - some of the patterns can fall over if they are too tall (e.g. lines infill pattern). But as far as the quality of the surface where you break off the support - I don't think the color or type of filament will help. Using PLA won't help either. It's going to look ugly where you break off the support. However, if you use BAM you can break it off instantly - no waiting for anything to dissolve in water and the surface will look much better. I just meant that for *bridging* which is when the printer lays down a string/trace of filament supported on each end - like the top of a door frame if you printed a door - that will look better with other colors. But really I recommend BAM in this case (break away material). I think you'll be impressed with it.

You have some difficult overhangs here. Ideally you want 45 degree angled supports but I assume that is not allowed for this part. Pretty ugly. ABS is difficult to print - this would be a lot easier with PLA but I assume that is a problem with investment casting? Also keep in mind that white is the most difficult filament regardless of the brand/manufacturer because they put something in it (chalk I think?) and there is too much of this powder and not enough plastic to make it print as nice. Also with PLA you could use PVA support and get really gorgeous prints here. So I strongly recommend you get some BAM (breakaway material filament) which works just fine with ABS. It's a kind of support that you just remove with some needle nose pliers and works quite well - it breaks away from the ABS without damaging the print. If you can't wait for BAM, the first thing is you need some fan. My UM3 prints with 100% fan power even when set to 10% and so I like around 2% fan for ABS but you could bring that up to 5% or so. If you use too much fan you get bad layer bonding which can be fixed by enclosing the printer (I just put a 1 gallon ziplock on the front and a box on the top). My UM2 I would set this to 30% fan. If you play with the fan in the tune menu you want to find the % where the fan is still spinning but at maybe 1/3 to 1/10 the volume (for PLA you want 100% fan all the time). The other thing I would do if you can't use PVA support is to design my own support in CAD. I would design a wall that supports the outer edge of each overhang platform but no supports in between and then cut it off with a razor knife after the print is done. ABS (and PLA) bridge very nicely so if you include walls on the outer edges of each level it will bridge reasonably well (not perfect) across that. Fan amount is critical for a good bridge. In general more fan is better for bridging but ABS will have bad layer bonding if fan is too high and can sometimes split on the outer shell of the part when it cools down. Again, enclosing the printer gives you the best of both worlds: more fan and no layer bonding issues.

Oh and enjoy your 0.25mm. I like to print as cold as possible - typically I do something like 0.1mm layer height, 180C nozzle temp and 20mm/sec speed (all the printing speeds). The default setting of 190C and 30 is probably okay. Also I usually print things smaller than a grape when I'm using the 0.25mm so I usually print at least 3 separate objects so each one can be cooling while printing the other 2. I find this to be critical as well for good quality and if you are using a 0.25 then I assume you care about precision.

This is not a bug. I'm not sure what you are trying to do but: 1) If you right click on the big "extruder 2" rectangle near the top of settings (just below your selected printer) and disable it (so there is no blue rectangle around it) and go back to extruder 1 you will find suddenly you have more layer height options. I think this is what you are looking for. Maybe. 2) You should also know that you can't print different layer heights with the 2 extruders. So if the left extruder is on 0.137mm layer heights, then the right extruder has to be also. This is why disabling the 0.25 allows you to do any layer height. You can (and should) of course go into "custom" in print setup and choose any layer height you want but again it will have to be the same layer height for both cores.

You have coasting turned on, right? That explans the travel-only move to the left of circled area but doesn't explain what you circled: where it travelled over an area printed earlier. For apparently no reason. Cura is doing this for my part as well (strange travels over outer skin when finishing one island and moving to the next) but I don't know why. @smartavionics have any ideas?

I would add the 512 character comment at the bottom of a gcode file to see if that helps. There is a sample one 3 posts above this post. Are you using cura? S3D? Other? How many characters of comments are at the bottom of the generated gcode file?

I have used gauge 28 acupuncture needles but gauge 28 hypodermic needles are so much better because it is tubular with sharp edges that can scrape the gunk off the inside of the tip of the nozzle. For several years I would ship a free one for all new people to my store but my supply has run dry (regulations made it difficult). But a acupuncture needle works pretty well. It just occurred to me that maybe I should cut the pointy tip off acupuncture needles! To make them more flat. Hmm.

Ah. Maybe the secret to 3dlac.

Don't go much smoother than this - maybe 4X smoother. If you go too smooth there are too many points and the printer does very poorly when there are more than 5 points per mm as it is moving. It can only look ahead 16 points and if that is less than a few mm it slows down just in case it needs to stop on the 17th point. Slowing down causes overextrusion and ugliness. I love openScad by the way.

I don't think you need to. Some PVA is left behind I think. In fact parts seem to stick to the "holes" better than the non-holes. I don't know why but it seems the less PVA there is the better it sticks and at some point it sticks too well and I have to add more pva (or just spread it around but that looks ugly so I usually add more instead). If you print PET or CPE or nGen you should probably remove all the PVA because PET combined with PVA seems to be the leading cause of chips of glass removed from the bed. The poster earlier who mentioned about the bed being bent - that's an interesting point. Probably not the issue but the aluminum bed can be bent and the glass bends with very little force. 0.2mm of height change in a corner can make a big difference if you print in that corner. In general the left and right rear corners are most problematic because they are farthest from where you leveled. So those are the best 2 areas to avoid. You can use a metal ruler to check how flat your bed is. But I doubt this is your issue. This is a common issue on the UM3 but for some reason not as much on the UM2. More importantly the bed is unlikely to change over time. It takes a LOT of force to bend it permanently - I know - I did it on purpose.

cif is known as jif in australia.

If you don't like brim and glue but need to try one of them - glue is much easier and the smaller evil. Once dry you don't have to do anything to the glass for dozens of prints.